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Discussion Starter #1
Guys, first off, site ROKS, thank you. Alright, been lurking for awhile, posting here/there, but yesterday, i acquired a "greasecar" kit. Looks like i have everything for it, minus some hoses..no biggie. From looking at the set-up, i'm not stoked on relocating the fuel pump, and also having such a birdnest up top of motor. Either way, i want to utilize some of the parts...fuel tank, heated filter housing, if i can use the valves???, some type of transition block-off plate/directional,..etc.

Been reading ALOT of threads thru the night, and now my brain hurts. Think, with clear head, could understand better, but anyways, was reading these CV's, installed on the heads. Guess thats the way to roll. My question is, what about the fuel "return" line. Think, thats throwing me off, and also, not using the fuel bowl housing, or using it. Try'n to understand all this.

Anybody, got any bones to throw, i'm all ears...
 

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Same boat. Keep one valve as purge valve and dont move the factory fuel pump. Instead buy a FASS for the WVO side and check valves and mimic the v3. Did you get a copilot also? I have a greasecar and V3 but greasecar redone the right way is way simpler to install and troubleshoot if anything ever goes wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
erb, appreciate the response. Man, i've been beating my brains, at this "idea". For some reason, the "purge/retun" part of the system, is throwing me off.

I found a layout, of using a purge valve from Mcmaster-carr, something about these g.c. valves leak. Anyway, about the check valves, can they be installed at all 4-ports, and be done with the purge/return, completely? I think, thats the question, i'm stuck on. Purging isnt a concern for burning diesel, til temps are up or to shut ur down, i'll be stoked for when operating temps, i can burn something else, thats not buring my wallet.

If 4-cv's will work, then tomorrow, my order of fittings, pump..etc, will be placed. thanks again.
 

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no you only need 2 check valves and they are placed where the factory fuel lines go into the heads which is one by the alternator and the other back by the turbo.
The heads have 2 plugs that get removed and then you stick a fitting in those and connect your veggie oil supply lines to those 2. The factory diesel fuel pump can and will flow backwards so thats why you need the check valves because you never want veggie oil to push the diesel backwards but you do want diesel to push the veggie oil backwards (this is called flushing/purging) so thats why you use a solenoid. The solenoid/valve is what acts as your check valve for the veggie side.
When I installed the v3 I was very surprised because I have a greasecar set up and remember how a lot of v3 owners say that greasecar is the wrong way because they use valves but fail to realize that the purge solenoid is an electronically operated valve so it confuses a lot of people.
Take the install slowly and ask questions as you go. I recommend taking about 2-3 weeks if possible so you can order the right valves and fittings. You could order the check valves and lines and fittings from BFT so that way you know you are getting correct threads and all and then just adapt your veggie pump to the bft lines. Use the coolant heated filter from Greasecar as that is one of the best things they sell.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
no you only need 2 check valves and they are placed where the factory fuel lines go into the heads which is one by the alternator and the other back by the turbo.
Ok, so the 2-check valves inline with the factory fuel lines, coming off the fuel bowl...next to icp sensor on d/s, and p/s in front of downpipe.

The veg lines, plug into the ports, d/s next to collector pipe, and p/s next to a/c compressor. I actually have a FRx in those ports right now, so that gots to go(for sale).

I dont mind a few switches for the system to work, 1 to switch for the veg pump, i still dont know, if i want one to turn off the fact pump, or let it circulate the diesel thru the stock filter, and one for the "purge" solenoid.

With regards to the "heart" of the veg oil distribution block, wouldnt i need a check valve there, so when time to purge, no diesel is backflushing thru the FTPE. I guess that wouldnt matter, looking at "robotuk/ropotuk" setup.

Hey Erb, really appreciate the info/help man, think i can finally sleep tonight.
 

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I not sure what all your abbreviations mean.
the check valves are going to thread into the actual heads and then the fuel lines are going to screw into the check valves now.

You only need 1 3-way (off-flush/purge-on) rocker switch and a few relays. I asked you about the greasecar co pilot because it will tell you temperature of vegetable oil, coolant and oil level in your tank plus it can act as your switches.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
sorry erb... d/s = drivers side, p/s = pass side, FTPE = flatplate heate exchgr

Ahh.. i get the rocker switch. With it in the "on" position, whats happening to the factory fuel pump, is it still run'n, but circulating itself, back to diesel tank? With this threrad goin, you'll realize, electronics, is chinese to me (no offense anyone). So, when you mention relays, i gotta ask, how you wire them up, lol.

Nah, no co-pilot, but i'll install gauges with sensors throughout the system. Rocking 9-gauges for the truck, now....:thumb:
 

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You cut and redirect power to factory fuel pump with relays so when veggie pump (veggie system) is on the diesel fuel pump shuts off and then the check valves do their job preventing veggie oil from going into the factory fuel lines. All a relay is - is a powered switch for high amperage (or low amperage also) systems. So instead of running thick gauged wire from your battery to a switch in your dashboard back down to the fuel pump you run the wire straight to the fuel pump then splice the relay in that wire and then it gets controlled through a switch with 12v current going through it. Trust me all of us where in the same boat as you at one point where it never made sense. This is why I say give yourself a lot of time to do this but once its all done you will wonder why no one else is doing it.
 

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how many amps is the stock SD pump fused for?
 

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You want a 20 amp fuse for the stock pump.

I think we are getting ahead of ourselves a bit here. First question is do you have at least one good source of oil? That should be #1 on the to do list. Second is how are you going to be filtering & dewatering your oil?

As far as a VO pump goes Fass is an ok option but WVO Designs pump is another option.
 

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You want a 20 amp fuse for the stock pump.

I think we are getting ahead of ourselves a bit here. First question is do you have at least one good source of oil? That should be #1 on the to do list. Second is how are you going to be filtering & dewatering your oil?

As far as a VO pump goes Fass is an ok option but WVO Designs pump is another option.
catch up. He already has the greasecar kit so your suggestions wont help at this point. FASS pump is the best option he has right now.
 

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catch up. He already has the greasecar kit so your suggestions wont help at this point. FASS pump is the best option he has right now.
I know he has a GC kit. He has no Co Pilot right? He trying to use GC components in a V3 style conversion right?? There am I caught up!!!
Why is fass his only option? Why will a Fass work but Leons pump won't?

Oh & I don't appricate the smart *** comment.
 

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sorry no smartazz-ness. I just said FASS is his best option not his only option. I say that simply because FASS has best warranty and record. You dont purchase a used greasecar kit because you got $$$ to waste you know. So Im going surfing now :)
 

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sorry no smartazz-ness. I just said FASS is his best option not his only option. I say that simply because FASS has best warranty and record. You dont purchase a used greasecar kit because you got $$$ to waste you know. So Im going surfing now :)
Fass does have a good warranty but their record has been far from perfect. Yes many have had good luck with them but there also been alot of guys go through alot of them. DFA didn't have much fun with them either. I wouldn't have a problem giving Leons pump a try. That pump has a good warranty & great customer service.
 

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You cut and redirect power to factory fuel pump with relays so when veggie pump (veggie system) is on the diesel fuel pump shuts off and then the check valves do their job preventing veggie oil from going into the factory fuel lines. All a relay is - is a powered switch for high amperage (or low amperage also) systems. So instead of running thick gauged wire from your battery to a switch in your dashboard back down to the fuel pump you run the wire straight to the fuel pump then splice the relay in that wire and then it gets controlled through a switch with 12v current going through it. Trust me all of us where in the same boat as you at one point where it never made sense. This is why I say give yourself a lot of time to do this but once its all done you will wonder why no one else is doing it.
I use Frybrids 2 relay setup for switching pumps. This allows you to turn the d2 pump off , turn the VO pump on & not have the ECU throw a code. Works very well & is cheap to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I use Frybrids 2 relay setup for switching pumps. This allows you to turn the d2 pump off , turn the VO pump on & not have the ECU throw a code. Works very well & is cheap to do.
Will need to check that setup out.

I've been "surfing" for the best/decent pump, and keep coming to a conclusion, that the RAPTOR pump will be good. Only GC unit i'm using, will be the tank. Read about there valves leaking, the"manifold" would've worked, but Mcmasterr-Carr manifold, looks a heckofalot simpler. Resourse wise, cant go wrong. A parent on my nephews football team, owns 2-Japanese restaurants. Already talked with her, and so i'm good to go.

Got a few parts in today...filter base and filters, 20-FPHE (wvo designs), and the manifold (fuel heart) along with the purge valve, from mcm-carr the other day...waiting on the word/responses, to pull the trigger on the fuel pump???
 

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Discussion Starter #19
sorry no smartazz-ness. I just said FASS is his best option not his only option. I say that simply because FASS has best warranty and record. You dont purchase a used greasecar kit because you got $$$ to waste you know. So Im going surfing now :)
I should've done my homework, but as always, shooting from the hip. Tanks' cool, just dislike there complete "setup" with remounting the pump..etc, just too busy under the hood, for me, plus was thinking when its time to smog, not sure how they'd look at it.
 

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Unless Raptor has come out with a new pump I wouldn't got that route. I have no personal experience with the Raport but have heard from many that the Raptor can not provide enough pressure under load to keep with the PSD.

So your going with the manifold setup?? Am I reading correctly?? It will work but the checkvalve V3 sytle setup is a much cleaner & easier way IMHO.

Here is a diagram for the dual relay:dual pump relay 2 - Forums. If you understand wiring & relays it will be easy. If you don't it will look like gobbly ****. But we can walk you through it.
 
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