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Discussion Starter #1
So I have read a lot about the glow plugs still running after the WTS light turns off. But with my 02 psd the WTS shuts off after 15 seconds then while voltage testing the posts the post most towards the drivers side stops reading voltage after 20 seconds. The truck turns about 8-10 times before it starts. So my question is since I have constant voltage on other terminals would this just be a bad glow plug relay or could it be something like the wire running from the pcm? Thanks in advance.
 

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2001 Ford F350, 7.3L, 4R100, CC, LB, SRW
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A) Has this always done this -OR- something new?
B) What is the engine temp? (Depending on engine temp, the PCM will shut off the relay @ various lengths of time. i.e. - First start of the day, it will keep the GPR on longer. OR you just drove 40 miles, stopped to get fuel, the GPR won't be on that long due to the heat of engine)
C) It's possible your relay is starting to flake on you.
D) Can you monitor the wire from the PCM to see when it shuts off?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So I’m not sure if it has done this in the past as this is the first time I’ve looked at it. I had a no start issue when hot and replaced my injector o rings which has worked like in charm on that issue but it did not fix my multiple cranks to start. Current outside air temp is roughly 40 and the engine this morning was cold so I counted out to 30 and started with the 8-10 cranks. Then I took it to a store about 1-2 miles out and back then about 3 hrs later went out and tested my gpr so my best guess is the heat on the block was around 60-70. It was cool under the hood but a bit warmer than the ambient air. I replaced the gpr with a motor craft last year but that did not fix the long crank issue. I can try to test the wire going to the PCM. Would you know which post that would be coming off of or which color the manufacture used? I believe the larger post towards the driver side goes straight to the glow plugs. Would I do an ohms test or voltage on the one Coming from the PCM?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Also I just notice that the bottom of one of my ground terminal connector on the battery is cracked. I don’t know if this would cause any issues. Also should I be testing my starter draw? If so do you know what I should be looking for there. Don’t mean to dump the whole load here but you can redirect me if needed. Thanks for the quick response.
 

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Also I just notice that the bottom of one of my ground terminal connector on the battery is cracked. I don’t know if this would cause any issues. Also should I be testing my starter draw? If so do you know what I should be looking for there. Don’t mean to dump the whole load here but you can redirect me if needed. Thanks for the quick response.
Replace/repair that ground connector, that will cause things to get hot fast and really drag the cranking on for that truck. Personally if you had to replace injector o rings the truck needs to drive 50+ miles to work on the air in the systm usually. Also did you replace the injector o rings with generic brand or motorcraft/international? Many have to replace them in a couple hundred miles if you got autozone/napa type brand injector o rings.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the advice. I will go pick up some connectors and replace all of them while I’m doing it and report back. I’m not sure if the color coating would tell you which ones I got or not but the rings were colored from tip of injector to top orange, pink, black, blacksquared. They might be generic. I ran the truck for about 20 minutes and drove around about 3 miles prior to the trip this morning. I will replace those cable ends and go run it a while longer to be sure all the air is out.
 

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2001 Ford F350, 7.3L, 4R100, CC, LB, SRW
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Unfortunately, I can't help with the GPR wiring. I have a California truck equipped with Glow Plug Control Module (GPCM). 40° temps should allow the truck to start without too much help from the GPs. Hopefully, someone experience with the GPR can give you some help there.

It's possible the cracked battery ground "could" be affecting things.

There are a couple of other things that could affect longer cranking. Fuel pressure and oil pressure. Both of those have to be "up" for the injectors to fire properly. I believe there are sensors on each to give the PCM the Good-to-Go signal so it can start. I think the ICP monitors the oil pressure. It's on the driver's side head near the front not too far from the HPOP. Sometimes, they start leaking through the sensor. You'll see the oil leaking. It's possible one of those are flaking. Just thinking out through my fingers.
 

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I chased a long crank on my truck for a while. Then It finally hit me and I load tested the starter. Found that it was just plain worn out. You get used to how it cranks over time and over time it gets a little slower and slower, so you don't really notice a change in it. I replaced the starter and the first time I hit the key, I thought it was going to throw the engine out from under the hood it cranked so fast. My long crank problem was over.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Quick update. So today I swapped the terminals and it seemed to actually decrease the crank time just a little bit. Do you know where I would be able to find how to load test the starter?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Oh I see. I will call around and see if any of the local places have free alternator, starter and battery testing see what I can come up with.
 
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