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Discussion Starter #1
HELLO EVERYONE,

I have a weird occurrence of events, I had codes P0671 and P0675 last week, was causing minor hard start, maybe a 4 second crank compared to the usual 1-2 seconds, but ran and started hot and cold. Over the weekend I changed the glow plugs out on the passenger bank along with the harness. I test started and it was a harder start than before, took a few tries to start it, but the codes were cleared so I assumed it was gonna get better from there on out. I was wrong, last night truck almost left me stranded after I stopped for coffee, truck sat for maybe an hour and a half outside the shop and then refused to start for over a minute, finally after cranking and cranking she started.

Extra info bout truck, did studs, head gaskets, STC fitting update, stand pipes, and dummy plugs about 10,000 miles back with no issues before or after. Figured since we were in there doing studs might as well replace known faulty parts before they go bad.

Question is, could the glow plug job be the culprit? I have no codes still so I'm not sure whats wrong. I don't believe in coincidences like this so I have to believe it was something that happened during the GP change out. LEAD ME POWERSTROKE GODS!!!
 

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After all the work you had done, you could have slowly had some trash build up on the IPR valve. It is almost impossible to keep the high pressure oil system clean enough to avoid that when you tear into that system.

You say you have no codes, but what are you using to check for codes?

When you have the long crank, what is your ICP pressure (and voltage) and what is the IPR % duty cycle?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Using what I have right now, my SCT X4 to pull codes. I know its not the best, but it worked for my original problem from the CEL on the glow plugs. I'm looking to get a scanguage II so I can get some more useful information for the troubleshooting, I'll update the thread as I get more info.
 

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Forscan is the goto tool for codes and gathering parameters

The PC version is free and the 'lite' versions are not expensive in the app store
you will need an OBD adapter -- OBDLink MX+ or the BAFX -- some get by with cheaper adapters, but use at your own expense
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Forscan is the goto tool for codes and gathering parameters

The PC version is free and the 'lite' versions are not expensive in the app store
you will need an OBD adapter -- OBDLink MX+ or the BAFX -- some get by with cheaper adapters, but use at your own expense
Thanks Hydro, I should be able to hook that up to my laptop with the OBD-II to HDMI connector from the X4. I'll try it out tonight when I get her home and see what I come up with.
 

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When you say you pulled codes and that you used the SCT ..... that is not worth much IMO.

The scangauge is also almost useless for pulling codes. It is an ok tool to read engine parameters - just a little expensive.

Your other post was asking for a solution, but you really need to use the right tools!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
When you say you pulled codes and that you used the SCT ..... that is not worth much IMO.

The scangauge is also almost useless for pulling codes. It is an ok tool to read engine parameters - just a little expensive.

Your other post was asking for a solution, but you really need to use the right tools!
Understood Bismic, Do you recommend Forscan along with Hydro? First time having to diagnose an issue like this so I'm picking up what's needed ASAP.
 

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Yes, ForScan is a great troubleshooting tool and cheap also!

In the early days, we were all checking sensor voltages and FICM voltages. Then you saw people damaging FICMs by shorting out the contacts (not being careful) and poking through wiring insulation (and not repairing the wiring), etc.

Glad we have cheap diagnostic options now!
 

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Hope I don't get into trouble for re-posting this, but really loving the directness in the response -- in my defense, I was unsupervised

Come on man, get you an OBDII adapter and download Forscan. You probably still need some transmission work, but at least you'll know why. The adapter can be used on pretty much anything newer than 1996. You'll need different software for other brands, but there's plenty of cheap or free diagnostics apps available. For somewhere between $20 and $100 you'll have a diagnostics ability some shops don't even have.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I love the helpfulness guys, I'll bu the adapter and as soon as it comes in I'll get everything going so we can have a usful diagnostic discussion.

Hydro you make me crack up with that quote, I'm not cheap about my truck and what she needs so I'll head the words of G8orFord and throw it down
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Alrighty guys, just got done with FORScan and pulled some values while I was cranking, idling, driving, and hot no starting. I'll give you the run down below with a link to download my tables so you can open them in FORScan yourselves. Sure seems like I must have a HPO leak in the system somewhere. I'm thinking about pressure testing the system, I don't have the attachment I saw Ron, RIP, using but I think I can hold a rubber fitting and that should do the trick. Will I have problems starting her after pressure testing? Also if you guys want more data just tell me what you need and I'll get them, she is still warm so I can pull it right now while she won't start.

drive.google.com/open?id=1lO2sLo-PTXVTXuIUjKthRA-nNGwJ0fzJ

COLD CRANKING
ICP desired 1496 PSI
ICP actual 524 PSI within 2 seconds of cranking, starts right up and hits over 1600 PSI upon starting
RPM 190
IPR commanded to 84.77%

IDLING, WARMED UP
ICP desired 580 PSI
ICP actual 581 PSI
RPM 694
IPR commanded to 23.83%

DRIVING AROUND/GETTING INTO IT
ICP desired 1751 PSI
ICP actual 1793 PSI
RMP 3795
IPR commanded to 72.27%


HOT NO START CRANKING
ICP desired 652 PSI
ICP actual 170 PSI if I am lucky
RPM 193
IPR commanded to 84.77%
 

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Sounds like the first order of business would be to pull the IPR valve.

Have the air test fitting (that installs in place of the IPR valve) handy. Do an air test if there is nothing wrong w/ the IPR valve.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So an update that you guys deserve, I pulled the IPR valve out, what a pain in the *** it is to get to it BTW, and sure as **** that was the problem. I was hoping the screen had failed into the valve, but it was actually the seal below the screen, and there was no o-ring where I was sure there should be one, see below. I replaced the seal and added the o-ring, reinstalled and now truck is back to its glory, noticing better fuel mileage as well, that's even better news.
 

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