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So it's hard to believe its already time think about winter but here in Alaska there's already a bit of snow on the mountains. So last winter I used my block heater all winter and I didn't feel like it worked that well. It helped no doubt but I would like it to warm up a lot quicker so I was thinking of buying a pad heater for the oil and the tranny. I was searching on them and I have read that some people say that of u leave on to long it will boil your oil and some people say it won't. So what is it will it boil it or not? I am also wondering of I should go with a 110v or 250v pad? I think I'm going to order the wolverine brand oil pan heater. Anyway let me know what u guys use and if it's a good idea.
 

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I'm sure it gets alot colder up there than here in Ohio. Man do I want to move north, I would love to see more snow. Last year all we got was an ice storm, and a dusting. We didnt make any money plowing which sucks.the block heater always seems to do well for us. Good luck, free bump
 

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I would go eith the lower volt one. I have only heard of them boil the oil after being on for days at a time.
 

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Check the temp output on both cus the 250 will draw higher volts BUT less amps therfore be cheaper to operate

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Check the temp output on both cus the 250 will draw higher volts BUT less amps therfore be cheaper to operate

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only partially true, it will draw less current per phase which allows you to run it with smaller wire and circuit breaker. But it will not cost less to operate. for example 2000 watts is 2000 watts. it will draw 8.3 amps per phase on 240v and 16.6 amps on 120v. the only difference is on 120 your current is returning on the neutral which is not metered by the power company only the hots are. so if you draw twice as much on one hot or split between the 2 hots it will cost you the same.

Now back to the OP's question, i would think if you had them on a timer to turn on a few hours before you were going to go, you would not have an issue. I have never had a problem with mine starting, and I just let my truck idle for a while to warm everything up :dunno: maybe you could try replacing your block heater, i have herd of different wattage heaters before.
 

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Im not ready for winter yet. Got too many things to get done and havent started yet. I was thinking of putting a small space heater or something in cab to get warm in there faster.
 

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I think I'm going with an Espar Coolant heater myself, met a client who has one on his 6.0L (might even be on the forums too) and he loved it. Not the cheapest solution but definitely good for winter use. They make Powerstroke install kits too but I haven't inquired yet what they contain and what else needs to be done to it.

Thinking about getting rid of these Cooper's too, they won't be great on the ice but might try them for a week or two of snow and go from there.
 

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I think I'm going with an Espar Coolant heater myself, met a client who has one on his 6.0L (might even be on the forums too) and he loved it. Not the cheapest solution but definitely good for winter use. They make Powerstroke install kits too but I haven't inquired yet what they contain and what else needs to be done to it.
Was talking to the shop foreman at a dealership and was asking him about putting a Webasto or Espar heater in my truck and he said that with the computers in the newer models, you'll throw codes as your coolant will be warm and your oil will be cold resulting in the engine shutting down because it thinks damage is being done. Was told that an oil/tranny pan heater was a better option but even that was overkill for the city.

As far as being ready, have two 30 foot tow straps and shackles in my truck, the winterfront is behind the back seat ready to be put on when the mercury dips, and new tires (Nitto Terra Grapplers) have been ordered. Get those next week.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
only partially true, it will draw less current per phase which allows you to run it with smaller wire and circuit breaker. But it will not cost less to operate. for example 2000 watts is 2000 watts. it will draw 8.3 amps per phase on 240v and 16.6 amps on 120v. the only difference is on 120 your current is returning on the neutral which is not metered by the power company only the hots are. so if you draw twice as much on one hot or split between the 2 hots it will cost you the same.

Now back to the OP's question, i would think if you had them on a timer to turn on a few hours before you were going to go, you would not have an issue. I have never had a problem with mine starting, and I just let my truck idle for a while to warm everything up :dunno: maybe you could try replacing your block heater, i have herd of different wattage heaters before.
I never had a hard time with my engine starting i was just hoping to help my engine warm up faster. Also even though the block is warm your tranny is still cold as hell so I was thinking that it would be better for my truck to throw a pad heater on that too. Just trying to help my truck out through the winter until I build a new house with a garage that i can actually fit my truck In. I hate new houses these days I have a three car garage but it's only deep enough to fit my car in.
 

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I cant imagine a heater pad would ever get your oil hot enough to boil it. Not overnight at least. Don't just get the biggest one you can find, get one that is appropriate for the amount of oil your warming. And if it you do end up with a bigger one that needed, don't leave it on for a week. When I lived In Iowa (where it would get to about -5F at its worst) we had a 1500w heaters on a couple of our loader tractors (granted we were heating allot more oil), and we would leave them plugged in for days until we needed them. The oil was never Hot, just warm. You shouldn't have any trouble.
 

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Was talking to the shop foreman at a dealership and was asking him about putting a Webasto or Espar heater in my truck and he said that with the computers in the newer models, you'll throw codes as your coolant will be warm and your oil will be cold resulting in the engine shutting down because it thinks damage is being done. Was told that an oil/tranny pan heater was a better option but even that was overkill for the city.

As far as being ready, have two 30 foot tow straps and shackles in my truck, the winterfront is behind the back seat ready to be put on when the mercury dips, and new tires (Nitto Terra Grapplers) have been ordered. Get those next week.
I've heard of some issues but as long as it is just a code in the system I don't mind. I have my H&S that I can clear it with and its not under warranty so I don't need to hide anything from anyone. And actually now with MCC programming through H&S I can probably disable the check engine light for whatever code it is and make a winter map over time with some other changes.

Just got my new 30ft 40000lb strap as well, need to get a couple of shackle connectors to help with hookup on vehicles/other straps. Where did you order your TG's from? Hopefully you didn't over pay :) Would love to help members on here out.
 

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Where did you order your TG's from? Hopefully you didn't over pay :) Would love to help members on here out.
Think I did alright on them. Got them for $407/tire (LT275/65R20 E126R), mounted and balanced. Didn't really shop the tires around. Ran into Kal Tire and they were about $30 more a tire and there was an additional couple hundred dollars on their quote to mount and balance them. Also picked up some Bilstein 5100s for $95/shock and they're installing those at the same time. All of this was cheaper than buying online from the US and getting it shipped up here.
 

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I've used a pad heater on the the rear of my oil pan which covers the lower half since I bought my '05 truck new and it has never gotten hot enough to boil oil. To me that is a real goofy assumption once you think about it for two seconds. Oil boils at several hundred degrees plus the stick on oil pan heaters are constructed with a high temperature rubber which would have burnt off long before the oil got anywhere close to it's boiling temperature. Once during our lovely -35 degrees C winters I used an infrared temperature gun and checked the temperature of several spots on the oil pan after being plugged in all shift at work and the maximum temperature was 12 degrees C. I also took the same readings at different ambient temperatures and fairly consistently the oil pan heater only raised the oil temperature approximately 40 degrees C.


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Why not get a circulating block heater? Way better than the frost plug ones. Truck will be blowing heat instantly. Means the engine is almost up to operating temp being plugged in. They work amazing. Something like this. You can find more wattage ones with bigger tanks also. Zerostart 330-8002 Circulation Engine Heater : Amazon.com : Automotive
 

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Why not get a circulating block heater? Way better than the frost plug ones. Truck will be blowing heat instantly. Means the engine is almost up to operating temp being plugged in. They work amazing. Something like this. You can find more wattage ones with bigger tanks also. Zerostart 330-8002 Circulation Engine Heater : Amazon.com : Automotive
Where would a guy tee that in? Sort of where a coolant filter goes? I would love to cut down on the high idle time in my driveway before leaving in the morning.
 

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I believe it goes in the heater hose which may be a problem for some of us that have a OEM heater shutoff and I don't recall what position it goes to when the motor is off. Personally I think using the filter location will burn out the heater because of the lower flow capabilities of that hose.


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I have a question regarding the block heaters. You guys say put it on a timer how are you able to do this? I dont have one but plan on having one put in so just curious thanks

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I've seen a lot of guys run those home timers for their lights/christmas lights (I'm sure there are commercial versions of the same thing) from a garage outlet, set it to start at 3-4am or whatever you want and if the truck is plugged in it will warm the whatever you got plugged into it. For us guys talking Webasto and Espar, they have timers with them and actually run off the diesel fuel in the truck to get heat going.
 
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