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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,
I will be getting some 175/75% injectors soon and my factory pump is only putting out a solid 40-45 PSI now:sad:

What I need to know is, Can I buy another used OEM pump and will it be enough for a while?

Which pump should I be replacing in the first place... the one on the fuel rail?

If I go aftermarket... What should I get (please dumb it up as I know Nothing in the fueling world)... Don't even know what RR means... even though I hear it often :rofl:


:please::please: Be on the cheaper side, because funds are low right now... might be able to do something "better/nicer" later down the road, but what is Sufficient:dunno:
 

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First... By 40-45 "solid" psi right now do you mean at idle or under WOT with a hot tune? What's the pressure carry at idle. Not sure if you're stock pump is dying or not based on the info you provided.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Well... i'll start out with saying that it stayed at 59PSI before at idle and WOT on Eric's extreme street tune. This was after I installed the blue spring and Fuel pressure gauge (glowshift) a couple months ago...



Couple weeks ago...
It stays at 40Psi at idle and jumps a bit from 40-45psi at WOT. (Same tune) I changed my fuel filters with OEM (always do) and it did not fix the issue.
 

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Have you done the blue spring mod? That could help you raise your fuel psi. RR means regulated return which will help kepp you solid on the psi front but generally they are a pain to install.

I plan to do 175's myself and my planned fuel system is sump, airdog150, factory fuel pump, custom hose to home built RR which will delete the secondary fuel filter.

If you want a temporary cheap solution, do the blue spring update and just keep an eye on your fuel PSI.

Edited to add I'm slow....
 

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How do you read your fuel psi?
 

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Well... i'll start out with saying that it stayed at 59PSI before at idle and WOT on Eric's extreme street tune. This was after I installed the blue spring and Fuel pressure gauge (glowshift) a couple months ago...



Couple weeks ago...
It stays at 40Psi at idle and jumps a bit from 40-45psi at WOT. (Same tune) I changed my fuel filters with OEM (always do) and it did not fix the issue.
Either your OEM pump is going out or for some reason you're bypassing too much fuel at the regulator under the hood. Since it worked fine when you initially installed the blue spring in the regulator I don't know how that could be it, unless something failed since then.

You could also plug a mechanical gauge directly to the test port to verify that your gauge is working properly. If your gauge checks out, re-check your work from the spring upgrade. If that's all good you need a new pump.

That being said... I would strongly suggest some sort of fuel system upgrade before running a set of 175's. Either a full replacement pump like an AD2 (which I'm not a fan of) or a pusher like the original AD 100-150. Might not need to do any modifications up under the hood after that depending on what kind of pressure you can maintain. The AD 150 won't do you much good if the HFCM pump is bad in the first place.

on edit: Just realized you said it now holds 40psi at idle and 40-45psi at WOT. I've never seen a working gauge increase pressure when you mash the throttle. It should drop, even if just slightly. Check the gauge.
 

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I have an AD 2 and all stock lines right now. I would not recommend and AD2 though. I am sumped and i still have a 10-15 psi drop at WOT. I would recommend either a fuelab or a aeromotive pump, but to do that you are going to have to get so filtration going and that costs cash. If your tight for cash like you said i would probably go with a stocker. You can pick up the pump only, not the whole assembly, at orielly's for like $180 IIRC.

I will soon have an RR (regulated return off back of heads). I am going to build it myself. I am going to use either a fuelab or aeromotive pump. The AD2 is going to be a pusher for the primary pump.

I just ordered all SS lines and aluminum fittings from Summit to do a fuel bowl delete and redo my entire fuel system in SS from tank to heads, it cost me all of $300 for all of it. That's alot cheaper than buying a kit.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using AutoGuide App
 

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Also I have 155/stock with the AD2.

I believe that there are a lot of people using a pusher pump like an Airdog Raptor , or similar, to push the stocker and it seems to work great. The main problem that the stocker has is that it has to suck fuel up to the top of the tank through the pickup tube. That takes a lot of work.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using AutoGuide App
 

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Subscribing as I plan to do either 175/100's or 190/100's when I get new injectors.
 

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RR is reguated return, If your on a budget just do either a Fass 95 or Airdog 100 or just do the Airdog 150, Fass 200 pump right away and save the money for something else down the road. You got my number if you wanna shoot the chit on the phone and talk you though a budget fuel system.
 

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have you verified your gauge is working properly?

what does it do at WOT?

I would highly recommend you figure out your first before you go spending money on injectors.
 

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I have an AD 2 and all stock lines right now. I would not recommend and AD2 though. I am sumped and i still have a 10-15 psi drop at WOT. I would recommend either a fuelab or a aeromotive pump, but to do that you are going to have to get so filtration going and that costs cash. If your tight for cash like you said i would probably go with a stocker. You can pick up the pump only, not the whole assembly, at orielly's for like $180 IIRC.

I will soon have an RR (regulated return off back of heads). I am going to build it myself. I am going to use either a fuelab or aeromotive pump. The AD2 is going to be a pusher for the primary pump.

I just ordered all SS lines and aluminum fittings from Summit to do a fuel bowl delete and redo my entire fuel system in SS from tank to heads, it cost me all of $300 for all of it. That's alot cheaper than buying a kit.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using AutoGuide App
Have you modified the power lead to the motor on the AirDog? I can 100% guarantee you that is why you are getting a pressure drop. You're not getting enough voltage.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
have you verified your gauge is working properly?

what does it do at WOT?

I would highly recommend you figure out your first before you go spending money on injectors.


I goes up 5 psi at WOT... kinda randonly/jumps around from 40-50 psi...

But, But, But........ I know.. your right, :rofl:
But Iwill be doing injectors... just a matter of how much extra money do I need for the supporting fuel system:D
 

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Have you modified the power lead to the motor on the AirDog? I can 100% guarantee you that is why you are getting a pressure drop. You're not getting enough voltage.
Yes I have made my own 10 GA wiring harness and it helped a little, the best thing i did was sump it. Before I sumped it and upgraded the harness, I couldn't go WOT it would drop all the way down to 35 or so before all of the above. I now have it set @ 65 psi and it will drop down to 53-55 psi. I know that it is still within specs but I don't like it. Plus I want an RR and that's a good reason to get it.:p:thumb:
 

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I bet you the sending unit is bad on the GlowShift gauge. Happened to me. I called them up and they sent me out a new one.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I bet you the sending unit is bad on the GlowShift gauge. Happened to me. I called them up and they sent me out a new one.

Huh... I guess I should try that first:nod:

Thanks!


BUT, lets continue talk about builds as one day I will still need to upgrade.
 

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I'm thinking your best bet would to do a complete system with the entire fuel system replaced

sump-->ad150-->aeromotive(or fuel lab) pump --> custom lines to front of heads--> regulated return from rear of heads with regulator of choice--> tank return.

I think that is the simplest and cleanest setup I have heard of and also what I plan to do.

O and thats 8an hose all the way until the fuel block to the front of the heads then split into 6an for the rest of it.
 

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I'm thinking your best bet would to do a complete system with the entire fuel system replaced

sump-->ad150-->aeromotive(or fuel lab) pump --> custom lines to front of heads--> regulated return from rear of heads with regulator of choice--> tank return.

I think that is the simplest and cleanest setup I have heard of and also what I plan to do.
Forgot to get you the price with the sump eli :p but this is about how I would go about it.
 

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I have an AD 2 and all stock lines right now. I would not recommend and AD2 though. I am sumped and i still have a 10-15 psi drop at WOT. I would recommend either a fuelab or a aeromotive pump, but to do that you are going to have to get so filtration going and that costs cash. If your tight for cash like you said i would probably go with a stocker. You can pick up the pump only, not the whole assembly, at orielly's for like $180 IIRC.

I will soon have an RR (regulated return off back of heads). I am going to build it myself. I am going to use either a fuelab or aeromotive pump. The AD2 is going to be a pusher for the primary pump.

I just ordered all SS lines and aluminum fittings from Summit to do a fuel bowl delete and redo my entire fuel system in SS from tank to heads, it cost me all of $300 for all of it. That's alot cheaper than buying a kit.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using AutoGuide App
Just curious what fittings did you order for the back of the heads. the reason I ask is because I just finished my custom rr and i had a lot of trial and error with the fittings in the back of the heads until i got ones that properly cleared the exhaust. If you let me know what ones you ordered I might be able to save you some headaches.
 
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