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Looking for wear to start this repair so I don’t miss a step. Looks like this is has mixed with my coolant real good. Also wanted opinions on the stainless steel injector cups Riffraff diesel is selling. IMG_0631.JPG


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Funny. I just had that discussion with my machine shop as I'm having some 7.3 heads surfaced and seats done. He told me that the stainless cups are for the pulling guys as they'll withstand the sudden thermal load. Then he said that for anything but racing, the brass cups were the way to go because they transfer heat much better and cool the injector cups much better. It makes sense when you think about it.
 

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I think you're on the right track by suspecting the cups as it's the only place I know of where the coolant and the fuel even come close except of course, the entire head. (That would probably be rare.)

It's not too hard to do - just ensure you rotate the engine with the glow plugs out at least once to avoid hydro-lock when you pull the injectors.
 

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Funny. I just had that discussion with my machine shop as I'm having some 7.3 heads surfaced and seats done. He told me that the stainless cups are for the pulling guys as they'll withstand the sudden thermal load. Then he said that for anything but racing, the brass cups were the way to go because they transfer heat much better and cool the injector cups much better. It makes sense when you think about it.
I have heard that before as well. But its very controversial. On a "race engine" there is far more heat to deal with in a short amount of time. On a fairly stock DD i do not see an issue with the minimal amount of heat dissipation lost going stainless.

The biggest issue is high HP street trucks IMO. They have alot of heat, and people that dont want to pull injectors regularly.

I could be totally wrong. But i have done stainless cups in one of our trucks with no issues. 60k and they are still fine, Truck is bone stock employee driven.

Also, a lot of people change injector cups to stainless, then 10k miles later an injector goes bad. They blame the cups. When in reality the injector had 200k miles on it and was going to crap out either way.

Just my measly 2 cents.
 

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You're correct to suspect the cups. You could pressure test the coolant system with the injectors out to be sure it's not the heads, but I've also never heard of a cracked head on these. As far as brass or stainless, go with whatever helps you sleep at night. Brass ones are lasting 200k+ miles so I personally don't feel the need to upgrade. Heat transfer issues are pretty irrelevant either way for normal usage, including towing.

Make sure you use the green locktite and be liberal with it. While you're there, reseal your injectors, replace the glow plugs, retorque the rocker arms, and either do the 50 cent mod or replace your UVCHs. Pull the turbo -it will make your life a lot easier. And reseal the pedestal and CCV. As others have said, rotate the engine by hand with the injectors/GPs out to ensure any oil in the cylinders is pushed out. This shoots the oil out so have a towel or something covering it. Let the truck prime the fuel for 6 cycles then try to start it. It will probably still crank for a while and run rough until the air is worked out of the system.

I put a penny in the bottom of the cups while tapping them out to prevent metal shavings from dropping into the cylinder, but if you happen to crack a cup, now you have a penny in your cylinder. Pick your poison.
 

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I’ve never done cups personally, but my friend who owned my 7.3 before me (who is a diesel mechanic) put 8 cups in his/my truck before I bought it

He said a good trick is to put the sealant in the freezer for a while before you slop it on the cups, the cold thickens it so you can get a good amount of it on the cup without it running off


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I've only ever done a couple of sets. The tool from Riffraff is the way to go. I was told by a diesel mechanic to just put a small amount of either grease in the bottom of the cup or a small amount of facial tissue to catch any brass. I've used both and they both work fine. He also told me to chill the loctite. It does work betterm
 

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I am getting ready to do change the cups in my 02. Getting the tool from Riffraff and they sell the red loctite 620 with their kit. Why do some say use green loctite... Does anyone know what comes from the factory? Which one is better for this application?
 

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The 620 is a bearing retention product I believe. I use it for securing the bushings in a transmission overhaul. Works great for that and cups. Great stuff and a bugger to get loose again.
 

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its cups ive done them about 3 times now.....

get the tools/wire brushes from riff raff and cut the handle off and chuck them in your drill on low speed
https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/injector-cup-bore-brush-kit/

shop vac and brake clean, make sure everything is clean and dry

and use green loctite 620 let it sit overnight and them install the injectors so the oil/petroleum jelly doesnt contaminate the loctite.

i used my phone with the camera/light to look down into the bore and make sure it was clean.

if you dont get it clean youll be luck to get 60-80k out of the new cups. only reason ive replaced them 3 times now is because my block cracked, and had to do it again on my used block...
 

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its cups ive done them about 3 times now.....



get the tools/wire brushes from riff raff and cut the handle off and chuck them in your drill on low speed

https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/injector-cup-bore-brush-kit/



shop vac and brake clean, make sure everything is clean and dry



and use green loctite 620 let it sit overnight and them install the injectors so the oil/petroleum jelly doesnt contaminate the loctite.



i used my phone with the camera/light to look down into the bore and make sure it was clean.



if you dont get it clean youll be luck to get 60-80k out of the new cups. only reason ive replaced them 3 times now is because my block cracked, and had to do it again on my used block...
Don't you mean cylinder head since the cups install in the head? There are some serious issues if you're chalking heads. Overheating will do it.
 

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its cups ive done them about 3 times now.....



get the tools/wire brushes from riff raff and cut the handle off and chuck them in your drill on low speed

https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/injector-cup-bore-brush-kit/



shop vac and brake clean, make sure everything is clean and dry



and use green loctite 620 let it sit overnight and them install the injectors so the oil/petroleum jelly doesnt contaminate the loctite.



i used my phone with the camera/light to look down into the bore and make sure it was clean.



if you dont get it clean youll be luck to get 60-80k out of the new cups. only reason ive replaced them 3 times now is because my block cracked, and had to do it again on my used block...
Don't you mean cylinder head since the cups install in the head? There are some serious issues if you're chalking heads. Overheating will do it.

no sorry for the confusion if you dont do the prep work the cups will start leaking again... and no my block cracking is a seperate issue shouldnt have added that in there. just saying ive done the job 3 times now. the bore brushes are worth the extra money as are the tools, ive used angelofishs tools off ebay now 3 times and they have worked perfectly.
 
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