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Discussion Starter #61
@Hydro @TooManyToys so I took off the hfcm to make sure I had the filter on tight enough and sure enough it was not and the culprit for air in my fuel. While hfcm was out I took apart cleaned and put back together with fresh gasket. It was disgusting. I also cleared out the fuel lines going to fuel bowl and the ones going to tank. I added enough fuel to be several gallons over 1/4 mark to eliminate the fuel pick up foot from allowing air. Now the truck idles better and s little longer what else is keeping it from idling. I'm almost at the point where i want to just pull the damn engine and take it apart to find out why! @Hydro you previously mentioned a stuck open injector or injector copper washer not fully seated? Would that keep it stalling?
I feel I did the drivers bank correctly since no more puddles of black oily fuel every start up. But i did notice small amounts still. Could it be the passenger side injectors? When I paidthe last mechanic, the one i mentioned said I need anew motor cause of fuel in crankcase but did not do a compression test. The injector he replaced #1 injector he said the o rings were busted on that one too. I figured while he was in there he would have checked the other 3 injector o rings but I could be wrong I also assume doing a dime compression test before being so sure a motor is not fixable from fuel contamination. I can get my cheap obd2 bluetooth scanner to connect to the ECU PCM with torque pro. I ordered another one in case my reader is bad. Before I attempt to remove passenger injectors is there in anything else I should try. I know my FICM, ICP, IPR are good, egr and cooler is deleted, oil cooler is new, turbo pretty new as well as hpop replaced before I got truck. What else could I look for? I've searched and searched and searched but the best info I've gotten isfrom you guys. Thanks
 

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Keep in the back of your mind that all the filter caps on this vehicle seal by the O-rings being compressed as they move into the housing, but cap torque is not a factor. As soon as the lip of the cap touches the housing it’s sealed as much as it’s going to be, due to travel, not torque. Caps have been cracked by people not understanding that. Every install and removal abrade the O-ring, which is why they should be replaced every time.

From my perspective, I thought you did both sides of injectors, you can’t move forward on the situation until you do all.

Having #1 injector with this issue before (confused, it was again?) brings up other concerns, for me the injector’s cup. That still will needed to be thought of after the other injectors are checked.

One reason for stall after running is that combustion gases push back the fuel against what the HFCM provides. The earlier post of skirting back into the fuel filter canister was troubling to me, but I had thought you had done all 8 injectors.

For me you could do a manual compression check, but the pass injectors are higher on the list for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #63
I'm sorry for any miscommunication on my end @TooManyToys
So I had the truck in a shop who said #1 injector was bad and that was issue with truck. He went to replace #1 injector and said the o rings were busted on it and told me that he found diesel fuel in crankcase and that means motor is ruined from diesel washed cylinder walls. I had a few extra used injectors someone gave me that were fine when pulled I told him to just throw that in there with new seals and he did. I picked up truck with it doing same damn thing shooting half a quart or more of raw diesel. I decided to compress test my self cause I refused to believe my motor needed rebuilt or replaced and sure enough compression was just fine from what I found online then I did pulled glowplugs and found fuel shooting from all 4 drivers side cylinders the side the mechanic didnt touch so i assume that was the fuel issue. Now today I just tried to plug up a cheap obd2 scanner and live data tool and it gets nothing from pcm no codes no live data could this all be due to pcm failure? Also I had in hindsight some not trustworthy dipshit workon truck last year when I gotthe truck do my blue spring upgrade install could they have screwed it up causing this issue? Cause I now noticed the fuel lines got bent up by them
 

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Not necessarily your fault, I forget what's going on in threads after 5 minutes.

Cheap tools do not work well here, no need to be thinking about electronics. Bismic gives good advice as to what to get to read data correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter #65
Not necessarily your fault, I forget what's going on in threads after 5 minutes.

Cheap tools do not work well here, no need to be thinking about electronics. Bismic gives good advice as to what to get to read data correctly.
Ok thanks for advice. I had a great craftsman tool obd2 and 1 diagnostic tests tool but dudes who originally worked on truck for me stole it...anyways I found another pigtail near fuel regulator I cant find its place here is some photos of it and fuel bowl now spinning with foam style bubbles?
 

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This isn't your average OBD2 vehicle.

Fuel says you still have injector or fuel delivery issues. You also have a cracked fuel filter canister from overtightening, it will need to be replaced. You need to get a Ford oil filter cap and filter, the aftermarket one installed is bad news on this vehicle. Don't recognize the plug offhand, but Hydro or Mark probably will.

Your wiring looks like hell, I'd be expecting a new harness in the future.
 

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That plug looks like the Intake air temperature plug (IAT2).

Don't delay in changing out the oil filter cap and oil filter as recommended above (same w/ cracked fuel filter canister). Also, I would personally replace the bent fuel lines, but maybe first you want to install a fuel pressure sensor and gauge. EVERY owner of a 6.0L truck or van needs a fuel pressure indication. Low fuel pressure ruins injectors (as does air in the fuel).

You may not 100% need the new harness now, but Jack's recommendation sure is a good one. The harnesses are getting harder and harder to find and yours looks pretty bad!
 

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Discussion Starter #68
@bismic @Hydro @TooManyToys thanks for noticing the fuel canister i didnt even notice that. As for my harness yes badit's bad. The previous owner did not take care of this truck. I got it while living in a very small BFE 90 miles from civilization ranch town in new Mexico while in college. I parted cars I found dirt cheap and saw this truck for sale. Being a small town every one on the FB listing chimes in about how the original owner who bought the truck new took great care of it and was his personal truck not ranching truck then he sold it to a ranch hand for $6k had it less than a year when it broke down on him and he was just throwing parts at it he was very abusive to this truck and a known meth addict I talked him into to selling it to me dirt cheap $700 plus some tools and misc items. Only reason I didn't part it for cash as I usually did was he said he spent months trying to get it started and i got it to fire up first day and a powerstroke this generation is my dream truck. But every step I take I get pushed back even further especially with the wife. I've personally put to much inro it to just abandon it and she feels the opposite. I cant keep fixing this thing if it ends up being not fixable.

So I should get the following before abandoning this thing for a loss or before stripping it of parts to sell

1. Good live data from a good scan tool? Obd2 with torque pro not good enough? I got another obd2 elm coming in mail better than my little code reader

2. Pull passenger injectors and consider just replacing all 8 injectors with new ones? Inspect injector cups

3. Replace fuel and oil canisters and lids with fresh motor craft filters

4. If that atleast gets truck drivable replace harness

Anything else?
I've been reading about possible PCM failure symptoms and it sounds alot like what mine is doing. What do you guys think? And if so is it true I cant just swap another 03 6.0 pcm in without reprogramming that's what a mechanic told me today while searching for parts locally

And cam and crank position sensor SYNC issues?
@bismic thanks for the info identifying the pigtail could that being unplugged be contributing the stalling?

Also is that air in fuel issue injectors or the fuel delivery system how can I tell? Sorry for the questions after questions but believe me Ihave spent countless hours searching for already answered questions before asking.
 

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Cranking the engine over with a full fuel bowl - using the starter jumper - we do not want the fuel pump to run, so key off
this will tell if air is being pushed back from the injectors

Since there is already a fuel mess -- then turn the key on and observe the fuel in the bowl -- clear of bubbles? -- pump should run about 20 seconds - then auto off

Air being push back will cause stalling after a minute or so of running -- I think this is one of the problems
if this is the case the next step is determining where the air is originating
 

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Both fuel filters and the oil canister use the oring sliding inside the canister to seal(must be lubed) -- there is an internal thread limit stop, that will limit the turning when you get to the end(stop) -- unless it is forced past

Difficulty in turning the filter cap is usually from lack of lube or a twisted oring
 

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After reading this I didn't see a change but one thing to be very cautious of is the injector O rings. You mentioned using Dorman brands for a local part store. They have a terrible reputation of failing causing the job to be done again. I would HIGHLY encourage you to save up for Motorcraft/ Alliant/International injector o ring kits. I feel its still semi related to the fuel/oil out of the exhaust situation. Those o rings really keep a lot separated and any kind of nicks, cut, lets fluids mix.
 

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Thought I’d chime in with a few questions and suggestions.
Does the engine run rough when it does run? Have you taken the oil fill cap off while it’s running to see how much crankcase pressure there is? Is it a steady stream of smoke or is it pumping smoke out in puffs? If you are getting fuel in the oil really fast, that could be an indication of a melted piston or scored cylinder walls or both. This will also cause the puffing smoke from the crankcase.
When you took the glow plugs out, were the tips melted? I’ve seen too many of these engines melt pistons when an injector goes bad and over fuels a cylinder and the owners keep driving them. You mention that it hydro locks after it stalls, this would either be a bad injector, or an injector that is not torqued properly with damaged orings and copper washer. Also, how fast does the fuel bowl fill up now that you cleaned it up. Next time you get it running, sit in the truck and wait for it to stall, as soon as it stalls, turn off the key and take off the upper fuel filter cap and see how much fuel is in the bowl. If it’s not full, your fuel pump is toast and since you mention being able to hear it, I’d almost guarantee it’s bad. If you are concerned about the blue spring ring installed wrong, just take of the fuel pressure regulator housing and look at it. It’s a pretty basic set up. A spring and a plunger. Plunger goes in the housing, then the spring, then cover. Here’s a 6.0 that had very similar symptoms to yours. Still ok ish, but blew white smoke, oil and fuel out the exhaust, got fuel in the crankcase very fast and was puffing smoke out of the oil fill tube.
766225

766226
 
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