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Discussion Starter #1
Hello does anybody know anything on the hpop in a 2001 7.3 powerstroke?
My problem is all broke down to the front seal on the hpop .
I've been having pressure problems after diagnosing for days to eliminate the pcm and all other sensors, I've found that the front seal on hpop behind the drive gear was blown out. I had noticed that not knowing much about how the internals work on the hpop the to me the seal was installed backwards (sealing spring facing away from pump)
I thought this was strange as there is no submersion of oil or oil pressure on this side of pump also I was a little concerned about the where abouts of the spring. It has disappeared and is most likely ground up and wearing other parts of the engine now. So I had replaced the seal this time spring side towards internals of pump. Put it all back together and the beast fired up nice and strong. A few minutes of idling she started loping and studdering then died same issues. I ran more tests on pump and pressure had dropped off again. Seal is now blown out and sitting against drive gear again.
My question is what could be worn inside the pump that is causing the pump to pressure up against this seal as I would assume that the pump should not pressure this portion of the pump. I've searched for many a nights to find a schematic on this pump but have fell short Everytime. Without knowing a good and reliable supplier on parts for this pump I do not want to tear it down as the companies out there want a rediculous amount for a core charge.
Any knowledge would be great.
 

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At this point I would be ordering a new pump. @[email protected] is a reputable vendor and can get you set up nicely. I don't know how long a truck would run with a seal installed backwards and then you flip it around and it chugs and dies. Unless a reputable rebuilder can beat Corey (unlikely) id be looking for an oem ford or stage 1 from corey. DO NOT waste money on NAPA, autozone, o'riley junk it will just cause an even bigger headache and waste time/money.
 

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Your pump is toast. The seal was in correct originally. The oil seal is only for the low pressure side and with the spring facing out, it keeps dirt/grime from getting in the pumps.

There are no schematics to rebuild these. If you're interested in one of my pumps, we flow test each pump, installed steel thread inserts in the outlet ports, and we send a flow sheet with each pumps results to prove no DOA pumps.

As Justin mentioned about parts store pumps, I've actually had a couple O'Reilly stores buy my pumps because they had quite a few bad out of the box.


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Discussion Starter #4

  • Your pump is toast. The seal was in correct originally. The oil seal is only for the low pressure side and with the spring facing out, it keeps dirt/grime from getting in the pumps.

    There are no schematics to rebuild these. If you're interested in one of my pumps, we flow test each pump, installed steel thread inserts in the outlet ports, and we send a flow sheet with each pumps results to prove no DOA pumps.

    As Justin mentioned about parts store pumps, I've actually had a couple O'Reilly stores buy my pumps because they had quite a few bad out of the box.


    Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
    Hey thanks for the info on the seal corey . I had already ordered a new pump just after I pulled this one apart. And DOA is what I was afraid of and am dealing with now. Waiting on an ok to remove some plugs on new pump to turn a manual gauge into it.
  • My old pump though had a worn oiler plate ( if that's what they are called), worn revolver, one stuck bullet,five very tight bullets and now a screwed bushing.
  • Is it possible to get some parts off someone to put this pump back together?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I got the go ahead to test pump without voiding warranty.
First test with pump dead headed and IPR commanded zero PSI on gauge.
Second test same as first .
These two tests had a brand new IPR .
Third test I had put in an old worn IPR from the shelf and zero PSI
Fourth test took a few seconds then wham the psi jumped to 3500 PSI.
I left old IPR valve in and now truck starts it pulls no codes but has a longer than normal crank time . Also runs like ****.
Took for a drive and IPR commands 50% at full throttle
And holds around 2700psi under heavy throttle. Could it be a bad ICP? At idle I run 480 Icp pressure with .85v and IPR 13% with a rough idle.unplugged ICP and it smooths out idle ICP pressure has a set value of 725 psi and 14% IPR . Is it normal for the Icp psi to rise on the scanner when icp is unplugged? Must have a set value to throttle position?
 

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If the truck runs better with the ICP sensor unplugged then that’s most likely your issue. Also inspect the wiring to it very closely


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I never thought of that. If that was the case would a blob of Vaseline in the end of the sensor before I stall help eliminate that issue . With you saying that it makes me believe that it would be a hard bubble to remove the way the Icp sits.
I was starting to think it was a weak coil on the IPR.
But I'm going to try the the Icp air bubble theory first.
Ya I put 60 miles on it for a test drive the other day
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok I believe I have corrected the bouncy idle problem. First off I ripped apart a brand new IPR valve that I had purchased for old pump. It was a poor purchase as it was catching up on some burs . I filed them down and replaced a few poorly installed parts from an old IPR.
IPR now runs truck but had same bouncy idle. This would correct itself in gear with foot on brake ( did same with ICP unplugged) so I started to think it was another issue all together. On the road test driving and remembered I had installed single shot injectors from swamps four years ago.
I had u plugged the chip that sent with these Injectors to run them.
I pulled over and plugged it back in. And Bam!! Bouncy idle corrected itself.
Sometimes it's the simplest things that are overlooked.
Thanks for anyone who had sent any ideas and thoughts on this .
 
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