[kanikas]

How you doing, guys

I'm a roofer by trade, not the most mechanically inclined, but I have a few questions regarding a refresh of the front axle on a 2014 F-350. I currently run the Carli 2.5" Pintop with track bar, and add-a-pack in the rear.

My front end seems pretty shot at 98k miles. I get a bad vibration at highway speeds on the steering wheel and the front wheels. I looked under and a seal on the passenger side seems shot, it has a torn boot. I blame this on the heavy Toyo MTs, no shop being able to properly align my tires, and towing heavy (15k lbs+ goosenecks on the regular.) I'm trying to find a reputable suspension shop to work on my front axle, but my question is: what should I be looking for from them? What components should they be quoting, or should be mentioned when it comes to fixing up the front axle? Bearings, hubs, ball joints, bushings, etc? Like I said, I am not mechanically inclined, but I can learn. Also, of the parts that SHOULD be replaced, are there stronger/recommended aftermarket manufacturers instead of using OEM parts?

Attached is a lil picture of the truck in question doing some work Thanks for the help!

 

[Betaracer]

Wear items include, but not limited to;
Ball joints, upper and lowern both sides
Wheel hubs. Unit bearing design requires full replacement
Drag link. Has ball joints on each end.
Tie rods. Has ball joints at each knuckle
Tracbar/panhard bar. Ball joint at axle, bushing at frame mount.

If you redo the steering ball joints, it's advised to change out the u-joints in the axle shafts as you'll have them out.
Unless you see axle fluid leaking out of the wheel ends of the axle tubes, I wouldn't delve into there. You can change out the diff fluid

There should be Youtube videos on how to check the various wear components. I like to have someone in the the drivers seat and me underneath with a light. The assistant will turn the steering wheel until resistance is felt and then turn back. Don't, eed to make the wheels steer. The looker will then examine ALL the parts for movement atypical of normal. A ball joint should only rotate, there shouldn't be any lateral or vertical movement. Inspect every part.

 

[kanikas]

Wear items include, but not limited to;
Ball joints, upper and lowern both sides
Wheel hubs. Unit bearing design requires full replacement
Drag link. Has ball joints on each end.
Tie rods. Has ball joints at each knuckle
Tracbar/panhard bar. Ball joint at axle, bushing at frame mount.

If you redo the steering ball joints, it's advised to change out the u-joints in the axle shafts as you'll have them out.
Unless you see axle fluid leaking out of the wheel ends of the axle tubes, I wouldn't delve into there. You can change out the diff fluid

There should be Youtube videos on how to check the various wear components. I like to have someone in the the drivers seat and me underneath with a light. The assistant will turn the steering wheel until resistance is felt and then turn back. Don't, eed to make the wheels steer. The looker will then examine ALL the parts for movement atypical of normal. A ball joint should only rotate, there shouldn't be any lateral or vertical movement. Inspect every part.

I haven't logged on in a while, but I want to thank you for all the information. It's a lot of help and I appreciate it.

 

[Towerguy]

If you are having trouble finding a shop that can do a proper alignment due to the size of your tires,you might consider keeping a set of cheap stock steel wheels with stock size tires around. You can mount them when taking it in for an alignment. I've had trouble before with shops not being able to attach their equipment to my wheels due to wider than stock tires bulging past the edge of the rim. That was how I got around the problem.