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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need to replace the hubs on my 2002 F-250 4X4 and it's already making noise, so I figure the shaft is shot and will need to be replaced. I read online that the part listed below will work and it's much cheaper than buying a whole shaft from Ford. Can someone confirm that this part will work? Thank you!

 

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If you’re talking about replacing your hub bearing assembly because of the noise, and you think that needle bearing has failed and you’re grinding up your stub shaft, if you manually engage your locking hubs now, you should be able to stop any further damage to the bearing race on the stub shaft. Those needle bearings are serviceable/replaceable. If the stub shaft is OK, and the internal/nonservicable bearings that actually support the truck are OK, it’s only about an $8 repair.
 

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If the noise goes away after locking the hub, it probably is just the needle bearing. If you jack the truck up and put a lever under the tire and cannot find any slack in the main bearing assembly, you may be in luck.

if you rotate the tire with the hubs unlocked, and you feel bearing damage, and resistance or noise, it could be needle bearing or Main wheel bearings. If you do it with the hub locked and you no longer have a problem, then it is likely just the needle bearing… But you won’t be able to inspect the stub shaft race until you remove the hub/bearing assembly from the truck. I was able to pick up Spicer replacement stub shaft (OEM) at my local auto parts store off the shelf, and I live in a pretty remote area.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
i would not count on the stub shaft being bad

and Tasca says this
Thanks, I will have the shaft checked before buying a new one.

I can't use the VIN check because it's not linked to the truck as an available part. Ford wants you to buy the whole assembly for $520 but people online say this is the correct end shaft. I was just hopping someone here had tried it.

Also, if your ujoints are questionable, getting the complete shaft is easier than replacing the joints yourself.
Do you have a link to the correct shafts or the part numbers? Thank you.

If the noise goes away after locking the hub, it probably is just the needle bearing. If you jack the truck up and put a lever under the tire and cannot find any slack in the main bearing assembly, you may be in luck.

if you rotate the tire with the hubs unlocked, and you feel bearing damage, and resistance or noise, it could be needle bearing or Main wheel bearings. If you do it with the hub locked and you no longer have a problem, then it is likely just the needle bearing… But you won’t be able to inspect the stub shaft race until you remove the hub/bearing assembly from the truck. I was able to pick up Spicer replacement stub shaft (OEM) at my local auto parts store off the shelf, and I live in a pretty remote area.
I can test this but removing the hub is a little out of my league, but I will ask my mechanic about this. Thank you for the information.
 

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The stub shafts were the same for many years, f whatever, DRW and SRW, and even with different axles, I believe. I will tell you that the Spicer part I picked up off the shelf at O’Reilly a year ago was a hell of a lot cheaper than the one you’re looking at.
 
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