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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
UPDATE: Go to page 4 for installed pics...

Here's the box finished, but still not painted. Constructed of 3/8 fiberglass sheeting with 3/8 fiberglass sheet divider walls/ gussets. Was originally built for Boston G1 subwoofers, but the shop somehow ordered two 4 ohm subs and two 8 ohm subs, making them useless as I want to run one amp at 2 ohms. I found some Kicker Comp's for fairly cheap so I picked them up and we'll see how they sound. Due to space restrictions, each sub will get 1 cu/ft of airspace. I know in the future I will upgrade to some better subs if I can find any to fit the space in there. Pretty sure I could get some JL 13TW5's in it. Lotta work went into this thing.





 

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What Q ratio are you going for ? Please tell me that you didnt put all that work into the cabinets without using formulas matched to what speaker manufacturers can provide .
 

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dam four 12's. thats probably gonna hit hard. i have two alpine type r's behind my seat and think thats way too much.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
What Q ratio are you going for ? Please tell me that you didnt put all that work into the cabinets without using formulas matched to what speaker manufacturers can provide .
It was built to spec to run Boston G1's, but the ones I ordered came in wrong and I couldn't return them... ****ty local shop. So I ordered some kicker comps as they were the quickest solution to finishing this thing. I'm sure it's going to sound just fine with the Kickers
 

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What kinda cab config is that goin in? that thing is gonna POUND!
 

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wow your gonna need a new rear window
 

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I have 2 solobaric 12's in a custom MDF ported box and its too much. And if you power those right, your box is gonna be LOUD! You definitely wanna fatmat or such the rear wall aswell as removing the rear cab vent breather things, or else the outside is gonna be all rattles and vibrations. Great looking box man!
 

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Looks good Jack...lemme know if you are down south at all so I can hear it.
 

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Very nice! :thumb: Post some more pics after you get it painted and installed.
 

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Goin in here
Do you have a manual sliding rear window or powered window? I'm sure you measured the fit, but I'm having a hard time visualizing it.
 

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I would call kicker and see what size enclosure those subs want before I paid for them. Subs have a certain enclosure size that they operate best in. This has to do with the type of magnets used, size of voice coil(s), moving mass, even the displacement of the sub itself. I say that because if you put your subs in to small of a box they will be fast as hell and not go very low. To big of a box and they are slow and muddy. The right size box is very important. Now you said your have a cube behind each sub, does that take into account the displacement of the sub itself. When the sub is set into the enclosure it will take up some space so your cube is now .8 cubes. A trick is to get fiberfill (the stuff used to fill pillows) and pack it in there. Now you do not want it super tight but fill the box with the stuff. This acts as a bit of resistance and will make a box sound 10-20% larger than it is. This will also absorb the back wave off the speaker and give you a more crisp sound.

I'm not trying to sound like a wise A$$ but I did compete nationally in car audio years ago. That box you built is solid. Very good job with it. I just don't want all your labor to end up sounding bad.


micky
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I would call kicker and see what size enclosure those subs want before I paid for them. Subs have a certain enclosure size that they operate best in. This has to do with the type of magnets used, size of voice coil(s), moving mass, even the displacement of the sub itself. I say that because if you put your subs in to small of a box they will be fast as hell and not go very low. To big of a box and they are slow and muddy. The right size box is very important. Now you said your have a cube behind each sub, does that take into account the displacement of the sub itself. When the sub is set into the enclosure it will take up some space so your cube is now .8 cubes. A trick is to get fiberfill (the stuff used to fill pillows) and pack it in there. Now you do not want it super tight but fill the box with the stuff. This acts as a bit of resistance and will make a box sound 10-20% larger than it is. This will also absorb the back wave off the speaker and give you a more crisp sound.

I'm not trying to sound like a wise A$$ but I did compete nationally in car audio years ago. That box you built is solid. Very good job with it. I just don't want all your labor to end up sounding bad.


micky
Thanks Micky. I built the box to have 1 cu/ft air space which is what the Boston's call for. Kicker recommends 1.25 cu/ft, but I believe I'll be close enough, worst comes to worst, I'll toss the kickers for something else if they don't sound up to par. I'll definitely be putting fiberfill in there :thumb: . This box is being built to jam the **** out to some good rock music, so the small enclosure should create some real tight explosive bass, perfect for what I'm listening to. Oh by the way, the whole truck is covered in two layers of Rattle Trap, or 200 sq.ft worth of the stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Do you have a manual sliding rear window or powered window? I'm sure you measured the fit, but I'm having a hard time visualizing it.
I have a manual sliding rear window and had to cut out the rear middle seat belt assembly, going to have to put a lap-belt in the middle seat. Fit's like a glove in there!
 

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man that looks killer. would you be willing to build one for me? lol pm me a price if you would, i hate building those things
 

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blackbullit-
I could build another one, but it's going to be well over 1k at least.
That price includes the sub's I hope! $1000 for that box?:hehe::hehe:
 

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Discussion Starter #19
You can come sweat you *** off and lay the glass for hours than... It's honestly an impractical box that if you had to pay for would not be worth it.
 
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