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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, I’m a newer owner of a 2005 f-350 ford 6.0.
was bone stock when bought, first trip I blew up the EGR cooler ( I knew it was gonna happen soon) so I deleted my EGR cooler, replaced my oil cooler, did the STC fitting update along with disassemble and clean up the turbo and install a new ring and veins then installed a coolant filter and edge insight monitor with custom tunes (currently running on stock tune with EGR turned off)
Anyways I’ve driven it for about a week to work and back daily, about 500kms. Everything has been good it’s been running absolutely amazing, then the other morning it wouldn’t start, cranked really good but didn’t even try to start. My ficm voltage is around 43.5-47V according to my monitor (I have a new one to install as I know this one is starting to get weak). And my injection control pressure is only around 250-300psi while I’m cranking it over, when it was running before going down the road at 100kmh I’d see around 1200-1400psi range on average. One thing I’m assuming I did wrong was install a motor raft filter not knowing it used to run Napa/wix before so it probably want filtering and there was oil residue on the filter but it wasn’t dripping wet when I pulled it out. And I have codes for injector A circuit low on all 8 cylinders. I’m assuming that’s from my batteries being almost dead from cranking it over and over and over.

I have a new Napa filter, and the proper cap for it now that I’m going to install, but is it possible that my pump lost some prime and can’t pump full pressure? Or do you think I might have a leak somewhere?

Any help/advise on what to check out first, and how to diagnose this problem the best way would be greatly appreciated.
thanks all and have a wonderful day
 

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You have your filters reversed. Ditch the NAPA filter and stick with Motorcraft and please make damn sure it has the correct filter cap.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You have your filters reversed. Ditch the NAPA filter and stick with Motorcraft and please make damn sure it has the correct filter cap.
mid motor craft Really that Much better than the Napa/wix???
The Napa one I got came with a new cap for it, the only reason why I decided Napa is because I’ve had really good luck with most of their products, and I live in a small town and prefer to help local businesses as much as I can. But if it’s really that much better then I will bite the bullet and switch to oem filters and cap. Thanks
 

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This is about the only thing everyone agrees on is that you NEED to stay OEM on filters. Everything else most people will debate or argue over but nobody debates this fact.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
This is about the only thing everyone agrees on is that you NEED to stay OEM on filters. Everything else most people will debate or argue over but nobody debates this fact.
sounds good, I will put my Napa one on the shelf and get a oem cap and filter ordered thanks for the good information.
Could that be the cause of my issue? Could the wrong filter be causing me to loose prime in my pump not allowing it to build enough pressure to fire the injectors?
Thanks again.
 

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I ran the wix filter with cap and had no trouble. The problem is that people will reuse the tall cap with the standard filter and create a major problem. I do however believe the motorcraft filter is superior due to the surface area of the filter that is used. The wix filters have plastic support frames that appear to block most of the filter media from getting used.
 

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sounds good, I will put my Napa one on the shelf and get a oem cap and filter ordered thanks for the good information.
Could that be the cause of my issue? Could the wrong filter be causing me to loose prime in my pump not allowing it to build enough pressure to fire the injectors?
Thanks again.
Replace your oil filter with the correct size, replace your ficm if you already have purchased one, fully charge your batteries and make sure they are good, then take new ICP psi, ICP v and IPR % while cranking. You need at least 500 to start it. You may have developed a high pressure oil leak.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Replace your oil filter with the correct size, replace your ficm if you already have purchased one, fully charge your batteries and make sure they are good, then take new ICP psi, ICP v and IPR % while cranking. You need at least 500 to start it. You may have developed a high pressure oil leak.
Replace your oil filter with the correct size, replace your ficm if you already have purchased one, fully charge your batteries and make sure they are good, then take new ICP psi, ICP v and IPR % while cranking. You need at least 500 to start it. You may have developed a high pressure oil leak.
that is what I will do, I’m in the middle of harvest right now so it will be a few days until I get a good chance at it. It just seems weird that it ran so good and was cooled down the night before and then just completely quit over night
 

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Hey guys, I’m a newer owner of a 2005 f-350 ford 6.0.
was bone stock when bought, first trip I blew up the EGR cooler ( I knew it was gonna happen soon) so I deleted my EGR cooler, replaced my oil cooler, did the STC fitting update along with disassemble and clean up the turbo and install a new ring and veins then installed a coolant filter and edge insight monitor with custom tunes (currently running on stock tune with EGR turned off)
Anyways I’ve driven it for about a week to work and back daily, about 500kms. Everything has been good it’s been running absolutely amazing, then the other morning it wouldn’t start, cranked really good but didn’t even try to start. My ficm voltage is around 43.5-47V according to my monitor (I have a new one to install as I know this one is starting to get weak). And my injection control pressure is only around 250-300psi while I’m cranking it over, when it was running before going down the road at 100kmh I’d see around 1200-1400psi range on average. One thing I’m assuming I did wrong was install a motor raft filter not knowing it used to run Napa/wix before so it probably want filtering and there was oil residue on the filter but it wasn’t dripping wet when I pulled it out. And I have codes for injector A circuit low on all 8 cylinders. I’m assuming that’s from my batteries being almost dead from cranking it over and over and over.

I have a new Napa filter, and the proper cap for it now that I’m going to install, but is it possible that my pump lost some prime and can’t pump full pressure? Or do you think I might have a leak somewhere?

Any help/advise on what to check out first, and how to diagnose this problem the best way would be greatly appreciated.
thanks all and have a wonderful day
unplug your ICP and try to start it. I know people are saying the filters but I have a hard time believing they would cause such a weird no start situation.
 

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unplug your ICP and try to start it. I know people are saying the filters but I have a hard time believing they would cause such a weird no start situation.
You don't have to believe it, but it's pretty well documented by techs, shops, and forum all across the country...





It might not be the issue here, but it's relatively cheap at $65 for a cap & filter and one more thing we can rule out.

-jokester
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
You don't have to believe it, but it's pretty well documented by techs, shops, and forum all across the country...





It might not be the issue here, but it's relatively cheap at $65 for a cap & filter and one more thing we can rule out.

-jokester
well I know I screwed up on the filters so I’m crossing my fingers it’s as easy as that. My game plan will be to dump my oil out and change filters, I’ll throw a couple litres in from the top to make sure everything is primed along with the proper filter and cap, replace my ficm board and I have already charged and load tested my batteries. Hoping she fires up and runs good after that. I will keep updating on the situation thanks for all the information
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well I just installed a new filter, and did my ficm. Fully charged battery’s getting 49 volts from the ficm while cranking, highest pressure I could get was 275psi for my oil, and that was after cranking for a long time. Only thing my tuner will allow me to read is my icp duty cycle and that’s 0.14
 

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What are you rpms when cranking?
What is the injector pulse width command when cranking?
What do you mean by "did my ficm "?

I know your tuner may not give you all that I am asking for, and that doesn't matter. You need a scan tool that reads these engine parameters if you want to work on it yourself.

I'm sure you have seen the posts advising people to get ForScan Lite or Forscan full version, or Torque Pro (and you will need the appropriate adapter that matches your phone or computer).
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
What are you rpms when cranking?
What is the injector pulse width command when cranking?
What do you mean by "did my ficm "?

I know your tuner may not give you all that I am asking for, and that doesn't matter. You need a scan tool that reads these engine parameters if you want to work on it yourself.

I'm sure you have seen the posts advising people to get ForScan Lite or Forscan full version, or Torque Pro (and you will need the appropriate adapter thta matches your phone or computer).
when I say I “did my ficm” I mean I replaced the smaller circuit board inside, so now I am getting solid 48-49volts even while cranking,
My IPR duty cycle ended up jumping way up to 0.84.. I’m not really sure what the measurement is though as it doesn’t tell me.
When I’m cranking the engine I’m getting about 150rpm
And I cannot read my injector pulse command
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
And I was originally hoping my livewire ts+ was the all in one package but unfortunately I was wrong, and I will be ordering a real scanner soon, will just be stuck wating for a while for it to ship to my location
 

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Would be nice to have more than just IPR and ICP. ICPv, and fuel pulse width would help. Without real time numbers, it's time for base engine oil checks...


If all your base oil checks are good, it's time to air test the HPO system.

-jokester
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Would be nice to have more than just IPR and ICP. ICPv, and fuel pulse width would help. Without real time numbers, it's time for base engine oil checks...


If all your base oil checks are good, it's time to air test the HPO system.

-jokester
Thanks all for the information so far, I’ve got a buddy that has a scanner that should read what I need to I hope.
So what would you guys say to watch when cranking with it? And the numbers they should be at?
If I don’t see him for a while and can’t read them maybe I’ll jump the gun and just air rest the system, it’s very possible I could have put the wrong o ring somewhere or messed something up while I was in there before.
 

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You can do all the base engine oil checks without any special tools. if you move to the air test, you'll need the ICP or IPR adapter fittings.

When you have a long crank or or crank no start, keep an eye on:

IPC - needs to be >500psi to fire injectors.
IPR - Command value from PCM only - no feedback loop. Do not wanna see 15% or 85%. The higher the value, the more ICP the PCM is trying to send to the injectors to hit the magic 500psi. 85% is MAX.
ICPv - should be .20v-.25v KOEO, then increase in a linear fashion based upon IPR position.
RPM - Should be >150RPM to consistently start
Fuel Pulse Width
FICM sync - should be NO KOEO, then change to YES when cranking
Sync - same as FICM sync
FICM Mpower - FICM main voltage, should never drop <45v
FICM Lpower - usually close to battery voltage. Shouldn't be lower than ~11.5v

Fuel pressure is one you should be watching as well, but that takes an aftermarket gauge. I think Ford Spec is >45psi, but a correctly working system without major performance mods should be able to keep >50psi with no issues at any given time.

I should have just told you to read this:


Now I've got carpel tunnel from typing LOL

-jokester
 
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Cranking speed of "about" 150 isn't good enough. It needs to be a solid 150 or higher IMO.

Also - a good FICM power board does not mean the logic board will work .......
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Alright I’ll get a scanner hooked up and watch all of that thank you, bismic you are very correct, about the logic board and power board and I shouldn’t completely eliminate that without watching numbers and doing some more tests. I haven’t tested my fuel pressure yet since it quit starting but I have a gauge to do so as I wanted to watch it when I put the blue spring and new cap on to make sure everything was good there
 
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