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Discussion Starter #1
I just bought a 28' bumper pull camp trailer. I have no truck but can't afford a new truck so Used is what I am looking for. I hear about how Diesels cannot be beat for sheer pulling and I very much like the fords. In your honest opinions, how much would you be willing to pay for the following:

1994 Ford F350 XLT Lariat 4x4 Crew Cab 7.3L Turbo Diesel IDI
168" wheelbase, Styleside longbed, Electronic 4-speed automatic transmission w/overdrive, 3.55 ratio rear axle, A/C, Cruise, PW, PDL, PS, PB, Tilt wheel, Manual hubs, Manual shift 4x4, Sliding rear window, Dual fuel tanks, Dual batteries (new 6/2010), AM/FM stereo cassette, Trailer brake controller, Bed liner, 169,963 miles.

New injector pump, lines, o-rings & caps, Ball joints, Alignment, Glow plugs, Glow plugs controller, Water pump, Radiator, Valve cover gaskets, Front and rear brakes at 153,000 miles.

Complete service at 169,156 miles. Tires are Michelin LTX A/S with more than half their life left.

New front and rear Rancho 5000 shocks, BDS leveling kit, Windshield squirters and Windshield at 169,950 miles.
 

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Sounds like a descent truck but pulling with 3.55 gears will be a very slow start
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Sounds like a descent truck but pulling with 3.55 gears will be a very slow start
Thanks Eric. I am new to all the diesel language so I do very much appreciate any input. I KBB this truck with all the options and it is coming up about 4k private sell value so I am not sure why the seller is asking so much 7k. Thoughts other than because the seller has sentimental attachment:)
 

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if it were me i would hold out for an actual powerstroke, they can be had at around that 7-8K mark and the powerstroke was a definate step up from the IDI
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks Cowboy - I have heard the pwr stroke cost more to work on if something were to malfunction. Is this true? Also, I am interested in a 2000 7.3 pwr stoke with 208,000 miles Crew cab with a couple dents. It was a commercial truck early in life but for the last 7 years was owned for personal use but still looks nice and it is going for 10k. Like I said, need a truck to pull a 28' trailer 7000 GVW up these Idaho Mountains.
 

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Diesels aren't cheap no matter what. So don't think an IDI will just be cheap.
KBB is a bad value. I like NADA myself. But diesels hold value, ppl just like em right now.
And they're right; an IDI, especially with those cruising gears, will be kinda working hard to pull that trailer.
 

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Thanks Cowboy - I have heard the pwr stroke cost more to work on if something were to malfunction. Is this true? Also, I am interested in a 2000 7.3 pwr stoke with 208,000 miles Crew cab with a couple dents. It was a commercial truck early in life but for the last 7 years was owned for personal use but still looks nice and it is going for 10k. Like I said, need a truck to pull a 28' trailer 7000 GVW up these Idaho Mountains.
It is true that powerstroke parts are expensive(IDI injection pumps are too) (but that one has been done.) thankfully most of the time they last a long time, my truck has 242,000 miles on it and as far as i know the only major things done to it are alt, water pump, and the front end was rebuilt. you could argue that those things are not even major, just maintenance. you could pull that trailer up the mountians with a small gas V8, it would just be slow. you dont "need" a diesel to tow, it is just nice! :D I would say that sounds like a reasonable price for a 2000, you can always offer less :p
 

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What the ****? Talking about putting the CART before the HORSE... how do you physically buy a 28' trailer before you even have something to pull it with???

I personally wouldn't waste time with an old idi... there's far better options at this point. Thats some old school technology right there.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks Cowboy and 85 305 for the info. The Trailer is parked at my In-laws as it was theirs so it is waiting patiently for me to pick it up. Anyway, I did buy the 2000 7.3 pwr stoke with 208,000 miles Crew cab with a couple dents for 8k. I drove my family around it in before I bought it. About 70 miles so I thought it was all good so I bought it and now it is stalling. Check it out:

I finally bought the truck that was eying me from the used car lot I drive by every day. After careful investigation on web-sites (including this one) I went ahead and bought it - a 2000 F250 7.3 power stroke. Previous to signing on the dotted line, I dove it with my family in it about 70 miles and ran like a champ. The next day, after I bought it, it started stalling and died. I started it and would idle fine but went to put in to drive (automatic) and would slowly chug along but give it a little pedal, it would die. I did the following:

Changed the cam position sensor
Drained the fuel filter

Started it back up and drove it home at normal 25-40 MPH speeds with out a hiccup about 3 miles then it started cutting out again.

Is this just bad luck or might there have been some deliberate hiding of mechanical issues from the dealer. I have heard of sometimes chips being removed from the previous owners and dealers not checking that then causing these kind of failures.

Any suggestions would be appreciated before I start this beast up again and look into this further.

Thanks!
 

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Icp maybe. Uvch. Fuel pressure. Just a few

I made my Samsung SGH-I997 send this.
 

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Thanks Cowboy and 85 305 for the info. The Trailer is parked at my In-laws as it was theirs so it is waiting patiently for me to pick it up. Anyway, I did buy the 2000 7.3 pwr stoke with 208,000 miles Crew cab with a couple dents for 8k. I drove my family around it in before I bought it. About 70 miles so I thought it was all good so I bought it and now it is stalling. Check it out:

I finally bought the truck that was eying me from the used car lot I drive by every day. After careful investigation on web-sites (including this one) I went ahead and bought it - a 2000 F250 7.3 power stroke. Previous to signing on the dotted line, I dove it with my family in it about 70 miles and ran like a champ. The next day, after I bought it, it started stalling and died. I started it and would idle fine but went to put in to drive (automatic) and would slowly chug along but give it a little pedal, it would die. I did the following:

Changed the cam position sensor
Drained the fuel filter

Started it back up and drove it home at normal 25-40 MPH speeds with out a hiccup about 3 miles then it started cutting out again.

Is this just bad luck or might there have been some deliberate hiding of mechanical issues from the dealer. I have heard of sometimes chips being removed from the previous owners and dealers not checking that then causing these kind of failures.

Any suggestions would be appreciated before I start this beast up again and look into this further.

Thanks!

Ah that makes sense to me :doh:

As far as the issue, if you've literally just drove that thing off the lot, I'd be limping its *** back ONTO the lot to have them figure it out. Dont even waste your precious time trying to figure that one out!
 

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i agree, if you bought it at a dealer i would be taking it back and they would be fixing it or offering some serious discount
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well guys, Mainly Cowboy since 85 305 already knew from another thread I started (sorry I am a rookie). Anyway, Long lost friend of mine happens to be a diesel mechanic and is very knowledgeable anyway. He looked under the hood and started messing with the wires and low and behold the issue was caused by Injection Control Pressure Sensor wires being frayed and the 3 wires were exposed and touching each other causing the malfunctions. He wrapped each wire in electrical tape until he can cut the burned/compromised wires and sauder them back together. Sure glad I was able to find this dude. Happens he lives 1-1/2 miles away and told me to make sure I go straight to him with any issues I might be having in the future. Hope I don't run into anymore issues too soon:)
 

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Great, an easy fix! Hope it runs trouble free for many miles to come! Its good to have someone close by to get a second opinion from. Gauges would have told you the problem right away... might be some in your future (wink wink) :)
 

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I've had past ICP problems too. Make sure if it does it again, check the valve. The nut could back out causing similar problems. Tightening it down and badabing. Easy fix. But Congrats on the new truck. The 7.3 Powerstroke is by far my favorite motor. Check its gearing. A 4:10 gear ratio would be ideal for your application.

Sent from my LG-P925 using AutoGuide.Com Free App
 

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I've had past ICP problems too. Make sure if it does it again, check the valve. The nut could back out causing similar problems. Tightening it down and badabing. Easy fix. But Congrats on the new truck. The 7.3 Powerstroke is by far my favorite motor. Check its gearing. A 4:10 gear ratio would be ideal for your application.

Sent from my LG-P925 using AutoGuide.Com Free App
That's the ipr

I made my Samsung SGH-I997 send this.
 

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That totally makes sense now lol. Same thing goes. But ignore my ICP comment. So many acronyms I get confused. Thank you for the correction.

Sent from my LG-P925 using AutoGuide.Com Free App
 

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Discussion Starter #18
My truck has been awesome to me and my family since the 'Fix' my friend performed on it. No issues. I finally did haul that 28' trailer back to my home from my in-laws. About 180 miles. That trailer did not look all that big anymore:) I kept track of the MPG and here is the breakdown:

In town = 13.5
Highway = 19.5
Towing 7,500 = 11.5

Does all this sound right? I have not checked but I have read that changing the Fuel Filter will help the MPGs. I changed the air filter and boy, that thing was black so not so sure if the previous owner did the reg. maintenance thing.
 

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Mileage seems a bit low. Make sure good oil change, synthetic diff/trans fluids, fuel filter, air filter, and run a good fuel additive like Diesel Kleen... makes a 2-3mpg difference in my trucks running DK.
 

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Mileage seems a bit low. Make sure good oil change, synthetic diff/trans fluids, fuel filter, air filter, and run a good fuel additive like Diesel Kleen... makes a 2-3mpg difference in my trucks running DK.
The in town may be a little low, highway looks good. and that's pretty good for pulling a 28" box. Definitely change the oil so you know it has been done.
 
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