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I just got my first batch of fluid from a local transmission shop so now i have to start building a filter system to get all setup. I have been reading all i can but not a lot out there. I want to hear from those actually setup and let me know how is the best way to setup my filter system. As for those which have not done it i know about the claimed risks and do not need a refresher course on how it can hurt this that and the other.

So for those who are setup can you offer some guidance? I assume gravity is not enough to get it through the filters so as a guess i am thinking from barrel to pump to first filter(10 micron) to second filter( 2 micron) to centrifuge if i have one to holding tank or truck ....

any help would be wonderful
 

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1) is all of the ATF conventional fluid (dino) or is there some synthetic

2) Whatever you decide to do to filter the ATF, make sure it includes a MAGNET.
 

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1) is all of the ATF conventional fluid (dino) or is there some synthetic

2) Whatever you decide to do to filter the ATF, make sure it includes a MAGNET.
What's the difference between Synthetic vs. Conventional. I burned both Dextron III and TransSyn in the past. The shop I work for does transmission flushes on Allison 2000, 3000 and 4 thousand series transmissions which yields a large quantity of used oil when I ask for it.
 

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I just got my first batch of fluid from a local transmission shop so now i have to start building a filter system to get all setup. I have been reading all i can but not a lot out there. I want to hear from those actually setup and let me know how is the best way to setup my filter system. As for those which have not done it i know about the claimed risks and do not need a refresher course on how it can hurt this that and the other.

So for those who are setup can you offer some guidance? I assume gravity is not enough to get it through the filters so as a guess i am thinking from barrel to pump to first filter(10 micron) to second filter( 2 micron) to centrifuge if i have one to holding tank or truck ....

any help would be wonderful
Would mess with sock filters to much, get you a CF to filter the fluid.
 

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What's the difference between Synthetic vs. Conventional. I burned both Dextron III and TransSyn in the past. The shop I work for does transmission flushes on Allison 2000, 3000 and 4 thousand series transmissions which yields a large quantity of used oil when I ask for it.

Because synthetics are designed to NOT burn.
 

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One of the important questions that the OP needs to respond to is how are you going to burn it? Are you going to 2-tank it, or burn it straight, or blend it with a solvent, such as diesel, or kerosene, or gasoline.

WATF is thin enough to burn straight, but it is a little more viscous than D2, and I have found blending gasoline with my waste oils does all kinds of good things for my fuel blends, such as: most of the water and particulate precipitates out in about 24 hours of settling after blending. I find a little gasoline improves combustion, and it is an excellent winter anti-gel for my waste oil blends.

So, after blending whatever waste oil comes my way with gasoline, I leave it to settle for at least 24 hours, and often times a week. I then run it through 2 y-traps with 50-and 80 mesh screens in them successively, then I go right to a 1-micron bag filter, then to a pressure driven CF.

I pneumatically pump my fuel through the y-traps, then to the 1-micron bag filter then through the CF by using compressed air pushing on top of the waste oil blend, which is in a recycled compressor tank, so that I can pressurize the whole system to the 80 PSI needed to drive the CF.

Also, I have not found any problem with burning synthetic oils.
 

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Also interested in more data or info regarding not having a clue if the fluid is Synthetic or not as recieved
I have looked into the by products of the pyrolysis of various lubricants, plastics, etc. It appears that Synthetic lubricants are silicon lubricants and their pyrolysis results in similar products as petroleum distillates, so I believe it is a non-issue. You can find my research on that topic at this link.
http://beyondbiodiesel.org/forum/index.php?topic=305.0

My premise when making diesel fuel blends out of waste oils is to blend, then settle it for 1-7 days. Anything that does not remain in solution is removed, and the rest goes into the fuel tank after filtration.

In the 6 years that I have been burning waste oils in a diesel engine I have not found an oil that does not burn just fine on my diesel engine as long as it remains in solution through the settling period. The only oil that I have had trouble with is WMO, which tends to coke my injectors. I believe it is because WMO has a lot of ash and soot dissolved into it.

I have also read reports from a large number of people who have been burning WATF in their engines for years without trouble.

The problem that I see with WATF is that it is often contaminated with WMO. So, if you can get the WATF without WMO in it, then you should have no problem burning it on any diesel engine, even un-thinned, but I would add some solvent to it like diesel at 15% or gasoline at 5%, especially in the winter; or run it in a heated 2-tank SVO-like system.

Your original question was how to clean WATF up for fuel consumption. I use a 1-micron bag filter to process all of my waste oil blends, and it has worked great for the 2 years that I have been using it.

I also have a centrifuge, which I am very happy with, but I find most waste oils are not dirty enough to justify buying a centrifuge. I got it for processing WMO, and I find it is very effective for that. Since I now own the centrifuge I then use it as the last stage in my fuel processing, just to make sure all sub-micron particles have been removed from my waste oil blends.
 

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Jeff you are running these garbage blends in a fossil of a diesel engine, a 1983 GM V8 non-turbo diesel. This is NOT a PSD therefore your information is not accurate for this application.
 

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No Jeff you destroy ALL of the forums you come too. Just go buy a powerstroke with all that money you saved by blending and put it through these tests. Publish that information here and prove it doesn't destroy these engines and your home free on this site.
 

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No Jeff you destroy ALL of the forums you come too. Just go buy a powerstroke with all that money you saved by blending and put it through these tests. Publish that information here and prove it doesn't destroy these engines and your home free on this site.

I agree.
Put up or shut up.
And "put up" means get a 94.5-2003.5 psd. I would include the 03.5 to current, however, you wouldn't get it out of the garage on the piss and vinegar you are blending.
 

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I just got my first batch of fluid from a local transmission shop so now i have to start building a filter system to get all setup. I have been reading all i can but not a lot out there. I want to hear from those actually setup and let me know how is the best way to setup my filter system. As for those which have not done it i know about the claimed risks and do not need a refresher course on how it can hurt this that and the other.

So for those who are setup can you offer some guidance? I assume gravity is not enough to get it through the filters so as a guess i am thinking from barrel to pump to first filter(10 micron) to second filter( 2 micron) to centrifuge if i have one to holding tank or truck ....

any help would be wonderful
I made this exact setup... (Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com - bnjmnalan's Album: WMO Filtering Setup - Picture)

It is too big and I should have used 30 gallon barrels instead. I like the whole house filter set ups I got from Menards. I found 5 & 1 micron absolute filters from McMaster-Carr online that fit. I found a Acme 6001 food processor I will use as a centrifuge. $40 on Craigslist.

I do not like the fact I have 55 gallons of WMO sitting in the upflow system. I am going to do something different to move the entire batch from settling to filtering to centrifuging to usage but have yet to set something up. I have three 30 gallon barrels that I like much more than the 55 gallon.
 

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When i was in florida i used a 50/50 mix of used motor oil and diesel in my 05 cummins up till i sold it when i moved to maine.. I prefiltered it using a pump to push the oil threw a whole house 10 micron filter and then threw muslim cloth over a 30 gal drum . At the base of the drum i hade a ball valve and i then pumped it threw a napa 2 micron filter to my mixing tank. I had a 2 micron filter on the truck also. I ran for nearly two years on this set up on a common rail. I plan to do the same up here in maine to the 01 powerstroke van i have during the summer. The powerstroke should love it.lol
 

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When i was in florida i used a 50/50 mix of used motor oil and diesel in my 05 cummins up till i sold it when i moved to maine.. I prefiltered it using a pump to push the oil threw a whole house 10 micron filter and then threw muslim cloth over a 30 gal drum . At the base of the drum i hade a ball valve and i then pumped it threw a napa 2 micron filter to my mixing tank. I had a 2 micron filter on the truck also. I ran for nearly two years on this set up on a common rail. I plan to do the same up here in maine to the 01 powerstroke van i have during the summer. The powerstroke should love it.lol
Good to know that you are having so much success burning a 50/50 mix of used motor oil and diesel in a 05 cummins and look forward to reading your report of burning the same mix in you 01 PowerStroke van. Presumably that is a 7.3 PSD?

There are quite a few reports of owners running blends of WMO, and/or WATF, on PSDs on the various PSD forums. Many of them have purchased centrifuges to clean up their WMO blends prior to burning them on their engine.

So, I bought one a year ago, and found it pulls a lot of particulate out of my blends after my 1-micron bag filter, even with my 80/20 WVO/gasoline blends, so I am happy to use it.

Since you are a blender and you are burning mineral-based waste oils, then you may find it useful to join the forum - Link deleted
 
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