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Discussion Starter #1
Ok,
I have searched and it seems that everyone with FICM voltage questions has a rough running truck.
The odd thing here is that my truck is running fine.
About a week ago I filled up the tank and soon after my CEL came on.
I went to Autozone and had them check the codes.
P0261, 0264, 0267, 0270, 0273, 0276, 0279, 0282. All eight of them.
The next day the CEL is off. :dunno:
After several tank fillings the light has come on a couple of times but not every time.
It came on again this morning. I had the codes checked again. All the same codes.
I referred to Swamps procedure for checking the voltage and I got 48v with the key on.
The voltage dropped to 30v while running.
I see that according to Swamps it is probably bad.
The thing that bothers me is that the truck seems to be running just fine.
I want to be sure there is nothing else that could be wrong.
Cranking time seems to be roughly the same. It was shorter when it was new but I would think that would be normal.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Chris
 

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Wow, that is a lot of bad codes all in the injector control and wiring system.

Okay other possibilities. Corroded and or chaffed wire harness(es). Due to the broad spectrum of injector codes unlikely. Ground faults would be a different set of codes.

Suggested solutions for any one of these codes is to check for corroded or faulty connectors at the injectors. Plugged injectors/dirty injectors. Or replace a faulty injector. All eight at once. Not unless you got some really bad fuel and it smoked all eight.

Be sure there is no waxy buildup in the primary fuel filter housing. Have you been draining the water in fuel drain every month?

Do a load contribution/balance test (if you have access to the testers for this).

Even though the engine is not running rough has your mpg dropped?

Here are some broad diagnostics for the FICM in pdf form

DTS Articles - Coffee Table Books

It is the 6.0L FICM Guide from Ford.

Hey a bad FCIM is still less costly than 8 injectors. Had to do all eight on a van recently, the cost... $5,000.00

Good Luck
 

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I had the same issue, I had no idea. my truck was running fine.
got a new SGll and while playing with the x-gauge functions noticed my FICM at cold was in the 30's

tore into it Friday night, re soldered the caps and resistors (one resistor was cold soldered) and running at a straight 48 now. took about 3 hours.

vibration must have finally broken the solder joint.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
All of the codes were the same cylinder injector circuit low code.
It was one code for each injector.
I just replaced my fuel filters. Neither one looked bad and the housings were clean.
I have not noticed a drop in milage.
I did notice that my battery terminals were pretty ugly.
Im going to clean those and make sure I have a good connection and re-check voltage again tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Is there a write up somewhere on the soldering?

I read somewhere earlier that that could be done.

Sounds like it might be worth a shot.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I actually found that pdf last night.
I am going to try it later today.
I cleaned my battery terminals first.
They were really bad. Should have done that first I know.
Im going to check my voltage again when the engine is cold before I proceed.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
SUCCESS.....:thumb:

Pulled out the FICM, touched up the spots on the board inside with a soldering iron and I'm back to 48v while the truck is running.

Thanks for everyones input.

Chris
 

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Always good to hear a success story.
check the FICM in 4 spots to make sure everything is OK.

Key on, not started
Starting
Engine running cold
Engine running hot.

if you are > 46v in all positions, you're good to go.

let us know if you see a performance difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I will report on the performance.

I had 48v not running and running.

Ill have to check again when it hot.

Thanks again

Chris
 

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The last 2 days I have had my FCIM voltage at 39 during startup and then it goes back to 48 as soon as the truck is running. My guess is I need to start by having my batteries load tested and terminals cleanned before I start to get scared. Any thing else I need to check. Will the FCIM voltage change as the board warms up?
 

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The last 2 days I have had my FCIM voltage at 39 during startup and then it goes back to 48 as soon as the truck is running. My guess is I need to start by having my batteries load tested and terminals cleanned before I start to get scared.
Good plan! That is what I recommend.
Any thing else I need to check. Will the FCIM voltage change as the board warms up?
The voltage can definitely change as the board warms up. Many of the bad FICMs are due to the solder used on the boards. The solder does not have the flex that it should and the expansion and contraction of the board undermines the connection, resulting in the voltage drop when the board is cold. When the board warms up and expands, the solder makes a better contact and voltage returns to normal.
This is why "reflowing" the solder in key spots works.

The only thing I can think of to check is when you go to put the FICM back in the truck. Make sure the plugs are fully inserted and locked into position. It sounds easy enough, but it is in an awkward position (at least for me it is).
 

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So with all of that said, Should I be worried if it is low on start up and then comes back to voltage (less than 3 seconds later) I am getting ready to head to Grand Marias and would hate to have troubles on the way, I plan on throwing the iron etc in my tool box, along with a copy of the PDF for a little piece of mind, However if this is something that needs to be replaced I might just as well replace it before making that 800 mile trip.

I also have heard of people doing a 58v conversion, where does this come into play, is it something that we should look at doing as the FCIM begins to have problems?

Sorry hope I am not hijacking the thread to bad
 

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The problem is that the low voltage will cause the internal electrical components to the FICM to fail unless the condition is corrected.
Low voltage can also harm your injectors on the electrical side.
Replace/rebuild/or repair before your trip.
One word of caution is that should you attempt the soldering repair yourself, and be unsuccessful, most, if not all of the "rebuild" services will not accept your FICM as a core. If they do accept it, the core charge will be substantially lower than if you had not attempted the repair. The place that has the best reputation out there for FICM repair... <click here>

The 58 volt version won't "overpower" your injectors, it makes them react a touch quicker and results in better throttle response. There are also "tuned" FICMs out there that have a slight performance flash on them that can increase horsepower (mainly used on non-tuned trucks).
 
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