I have been looking around in older posts on all the ps forums and cant find an answer, also electrical is not my strong suit to look at the diagrams on the forum so I am consulting my betters.
I am trying to have my viper alarm cut the 12v supply side voltage to my ficm relay when armed.
Don't know which wire that should be behind my driver kick fuse panel, can someone point me to the right fuse/wire? Its a 2005 350 drw with upfitters
I have been looking around in older posts on all the ps forums and cant find an answer, also electrical is not my strong suit to look at the diagrams on the forum so I am consulting my betters.
I am trying to have my viper alarm cut the 12v supply side voltage to my ficm relay when armed.
Don't know which wire that should be behind my driver kick fuse panel, can someone point me to the right fuse/wire? Its a 2005 350 drw with upfitters.
I do not have a FICM relay diagram handy but a test light and one minute probing the socket should get you dialed in for what blade is the switched power
I understand there is a fuse that feeds the ficm relay constant power side I am trying to find that fuse/wire behind the panel.
my owners manual doesnt say anything about ficm on any of the fuse diagrams is there another name for it?
You could use one of the diagrams that are posted in the 6.0 General section above. It shows pin assignment, but not the wiring colors. I’ve got my 03s, but Ford can change some wire colors per model year, and I don’t want to screw you up with that.
I got tired of trying to line up wires while jumping between two pages in the PDF of the Coffee Table Book for my truck. So, I exported the pages to hi-res images and made a single page PDF out of them. To be nice - and since I already had the process worked out - I went ahead and did it for...
You could use one of the diagrams that are posted in the 6.0 General section above. It shows pin assignment, but not the wiring colors. I’ve got my 03s, but Ford can change some wire colors per model year, and I don’t want to screw you up with that.
I got tired of trying to line up wires while jumping between two pages in the PDF of the Coffee Table Book for my truck. So, I exported the pages to hi-res images and made a single page PDF out of them. To be nice - and since I already had the process worked out - I went ahead and did it for...
which connector is this? "12 way on/off engine connector"
I believe its one of the 3 on drivers fender is that correct?
what is mpr on the bottom tooth of the relay? can i interupt that in order to make the relay dead? I ask because I don't think the alarm controller can run a 50amp circuit on the integrated interrupt.
Likewise what if i just interrupt the logic power while the rest is powered? Will that damage my Ficm?
IGN switched vpwr is what I would interrupt
and I would do it right at the relay block by releasing the pin and pushing it down so I could cut . Solder,heatshrink and probably put a bypass switch in case my alarm wigs out
Looking at the pic of the relay -- it makes no difference which terminal you interrupt -- top or bottom -- both make up the relay coil circuit -- B+ or MPR
"If there is no FICM logic power to the FICM, the
injectors will still buzz once the key is cycled but
the engine will not start. There will be no other
symptoms related to the no start condition. "
So also breaking the logic power would do what you are wanting -- this can be done at the 12 way connector also
This seems like the most clever choice because it wont give any hints to someone in the know that the injectors arent buzz checking. Also it is only 10 amps.
If I am reading diagram right (probably not) that 12 way is the actual engine harness that goes from all the sensors and crap to the ficm and down to the 3 plugs on the drivers fender?
I dont remember all the harness details by heart as many times as ive plugged these in and out over the years where would you guys access the wire to Interupt the logic power if you were doing this?
in reality a thief smart enough to detect injector buzz will be smart enough to move on to an easier truck if it does not start
no thief will spend the time tracing the FICM wires and find a hidden switch unless he has already towed the truck to a place where he can work without concern of getting bashed with a club or worse
in reality a thief smart enough to detect injector buzz will be smart enough to move on to an easier truck if it does not start
no thief will spend the time tracing the FICM wires and find a hidden switch unless he has already towed the truck to a place where he can work without concern of getting bashed with a club or worse
When you say "at the relay block by releasing the pin and pushing the block" is there a harness or something underneath that bunch of relays where the ficm relay is? is that what you mean?
I just took a good look at it nothing obvious is present .I have t connectors for easy splicing not sure how to get at that giant clump of wires to try to isolate the ficm logic
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