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Okay, so I'm in the market for a 6.4L, and I have already started compiling parts. So far I have a H&S Black Maxx, MBRP CAC Tube, Flo Pro Elbow, MBRP Duals, new style S&B Intake...

First question, I've been looking at EGR deletes. Will the addition of a wastegate prevent the need for head studs? From what I understand, the wastegate will release the high pressures that lift the heads. Am I wrong here? Who makes a nice kit that can be easily installed with no welding? I'm looking for an easy install and something easy on the wallet.

Secondly, I see the new S&B Intake has a new air inlet. Is there a scoop that goes along with this, like on the new AFE Stage 2 Si Intake?

Third, what can be done to prolong the life of the transmission? Direct Drive Solenoid?

Fourth, who makes a good cheap set of traction bars for a stock or slightly lifted truck? I hear this can help out the transmission a lot.
 

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Fueling M.A.D. Everywhere
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Okay, so I'm in the market for a 6.4L, and I have already started compiling parts. So far I have a H&S Black Maxx, MBRP CAC Tube, Flo Pro Elbow, MBRP Duals, new style S&B Intake...

First question, I've been looking at EGR deletes. Will the addition of a wastegate prevent the need for head studs? From what I understand, the wastegate will release the high pressures that lift the heads. Am I wrong here? Who makes a nice kit that can be easily installed with no welding? I'm looking for an easy install and something easy on the wallet.

Secondly, I see the new S&B Intake has a new air inlet. Is there a scoop that goes along with this, like on the new AFE Stage 2 Si Intake?

Third, what can be done to prolong the life of the transmission? Direct Drive Solenoid?

Fourth, who makes a good cheap set of traction bars for a stock or slightly lifted truck? I hear this can help out the transmission a lot.
Welcome to the 6.4 world!

First off I'm going to preface this with the fact that I don't have first hand knowledge with some of your questions (as you look to be taking everything a half step further than I have). Second looks like you are off to a healthy mod happy start!

Ok EGR delete. I've heard they aren't necessary, but in theory they sound like they would help prevent high BP. However I think they are usually attached to the up pipes (which I believe requires cab off to install, so why not just stud it then anyhow?).

I believe there is a drop down scoop for the S&B but since I travel off road and sometimes thru water, I decided not to use it.

Can't help on the tranny other than to say be aware of the relationship between your right foot and the skinny pedal...

And as far as traction bars, I'm interested in this question also.


Sent from a phone smarter than me.
 

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1. A wastegate relieves back pressure, which isn't the direct cause of head gasket failure. It can contribute to it though. I say just do the EGR cooler delete and when the time comes, do studs and new gaskets.

2. Not sure.

3. Proper maintenance and driving like you're supposed to drive. I know, that can be hard to do with 500+ horsepower on tap.

4. Don't go cheap with traction bars. Trust me. I've been there and done that. I suggest going with PMF's new single bar design. Your driveline will appreciate you. Traction bars can actually be added to answer #3 as well.
 

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an egr delete helps lower egts and remove the threat of cracking egr coolers which cause a hydrolocked engine. Most kits are quite similar. My favorite is the Flo-Pro kit with intake elbow. It cleans up the engine bay and removes all the egr componentry. There is no welding involved. A waste gate with VGT turbos is not as effective as many ppl think and it is only a small factor in relation to head gaskets blowing. EGR delete is a VERY good idea. You would be smart to stud it as well. i drive the absolute piss out of my truck and have blown head gaskets and transmission. Those trannies are quite strong and will hold a ton of power. the main thing is to use the Schedule 1 shift patterns that lock the TC in 4th gear. Pro Comp makes a cheap trac bar kit that works well. At the end of the day it all comes down to your right foot. As always "you pay to play!"
 

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Pro Comp bars are the exact reason I say don't go the cheap route.
 

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Blake didnt you buy a 6.4 already?
 

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Blake didnt you buy a 6.4 already?
Had a deposit on one, and when I went to pick it up it was trashed... Lots of dishonesty and false advertising. I'm still supposed to pick up the black truck this weekend, but who knows....
 

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Okay, I'll probably just stick with the cheap EGR delete for now. I'm looking into PMF's new bars...

I'm gonna see if I can get a Ford ESP on my truck somehow. The one I'm looking at has 102k miles, but maybe I can still purchase one somehow...
 

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Blake not to derail your thread but if I plan on lifting it in the future like 8 inches would I need to do traction bars now or just wait till I lift it.?
 

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Don't you worry about it
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Check out newton fatboy traction bars as well. I just installed them and so far am really impressed.
 

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If you are planning on moding it why spend the money on the ESP?

I assume is you are asking about the EGR delete that you are probably also going to tune it and remove the DPF as well. So if you ever have problems with the truck you would have to de-tune, re-install the DPF, and re-install the EGR. Seems like a lot of work for the possibility of them finding evidence of a tuner/mods...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
If you are planning on moding it why spend the money on the ESP?

I assume is you are asking about the EGR delete that you are probably also going to tune it and remove the DPF as well. So if you ever have problems with the truck you would have to de-tune, re-install the DPF, and re-install the EGR. Seems like a lot of work for the possibility of them finding evidence of a tuner/mods...
My dealer is mod friendly. That is not a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Blake not to derail your thread but if I plan on lifting it in the future like 8 inches would I need to do traction bars now or just wait till I lift it.?
You would want to wait. They will need to be longer.
 

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Oh sweet. Good to hear!
 

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what was your experience with them? im curious
My experience isn't a great example. They recommend them with 4" or large rear blocks. I ran them with factory F-250 blocks and they weren't effective at all. Could have been the issue. There is a member that has a 2008 F-250 with a 2.5" leveling kit and the 3 5/8" rear blocks that ran them. His truck is making around 575 horsepower (Spartan 310, intake, exhaust, SunCoast) and Pro Comp bars bent. I wouldn't trust them after seeing the pictures. He's an honest guy too.

I'm just a firm believer in the "traction block" system that Precision Metal Fab and One Up Offroad offer.

Okay, I'll probably just stick with the cheap EGR delete for now. I'm looking into PMF's new bars...
Good move bud. :thumb:
 
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