[mjlmasonry]

Hi, I have a 2000 F450 7.3 Auto.

Was leaving my driveway (2 small hills), truck stalled instantly at the top of the last hill. My CPS is problematic but I can control it, usually stalls truck if I accelerate to quick at a stop after the truck is running for 20mins+. Also have oil leak at the non-serviceable plug but keep oil topped off on the truck and watch it. Will be fixing this soon.

I have no warning lights, etc. WTS light is normal, truck try's to start as normal except when starting it cranks the revs low. But I believe its the batteries being weak from trying to start, I have kept them charged and it'll rev at cranking better.

I have checked the HPOP reservoir, it is full up to the last 1" or 3/4 full. Thought it would be the CPS died but it wouldn't crank and try to start with a dead one. With a charge, batteries crank at 10.5amps+. No funny sounds. Checked fuel pump, pumps fine, cleared fuel line, flows very good, and fuel pumps good and clean into fuel bowl (new filter earlier this year).

I do however have no exhaust fumes/smoke out the exhaust when cranking. So far I got it from the fuel bowl to the injectors.

Anyone have any ideas?

 

[jesilvas]

Have any way to check for codes? There can be soft codes that won't throw the light.
Sounds like you checked all the basic things so far.

 

[mjlmasonry]

I got nothing to check for codes. Truck is in the middle of driveway between both hills. Trying to go as far as I can to fix this before going to the diesel mechanic.

 

[NoRalPh]

First thing, as soon as the cranking rpm drops below 100, the PCM stops even trying to start the engine, so, yes, don't waste your time once it slows too much...

I'm trying to imagine what "My CPS is problematic but I can control it" even means :dunno: You're aware of the bad CPS but don't want to change it for some reason???? Frankly, that's be the First thing I would do.

And, what do you mean by "Thought it would be the CPS died but it wouldn't crank"? As in Cranking Over on the starter? (the whole "cranking" thing means different things to different people, to me, it means the engine is turning on the starter and a bad CPS will NOT effect that))

It's a 2000 so, you should be able to see the tach jumping up a little as it "cranks".. - Does it do that? That's an indication that the PCM sees the signal from your CPS.

 

[mjlmasonry]

I just recently figured out what my occasional stalling was indeed the cps. I did replace it with every kind of new cps I could get my hands on and they all made my truck run like crap. So I figured I rather run the original black one I know that runs good and just haven't ordered an original black one online.

When I say it cranks, I am starting the truck, it turns over and the tach shows around 100ish rpms. Normally it would be around 500rpms.

 

[jesilvas]

Gray is the new version. Not black.

 

[mjlmasonry]

Yes, the Ford and IN ones all ran crappy. The only one that is black is the original, the closest is dark purple.

 

[NoRalPh]

OK well, if you see tach movement it does sound like the CPS is doing something :wink[3]:

200rpm is about all the starter can do, but as I said it need to be at least 100.

Shouldn't be a night & day difference between Grey and Black, some tests show there are some advantages, but, shouldn't "run like crap". After all Most trucks out there are running Grey now.... (maybe throw-in another one just for S&G's?)

You could take a look at the IPR (make sure it's plugged-in and hasn't lost it's "tin nut", maybe rap on it with a screwdriver handle) or maybe unplug the ICP to set a default value to the IPR as a test.

Is the truck "chipped"? If so, try removing it.....

 

[mjlmasonry]

She's stock engine mod wise. Its late now but tomorrow I'll get a new CPS, check the IPR and possibly take it apart and clean it then try and see where it gets me.

 

[trackman]

My CPS also would Stall the Truck but it would Start right Back up for a Couple of Weeks. When i got around to it I got another one. but that is another Story and does not relate to this one.

I just went thru all your going thru. You have my Sympathy.
Read the Following Thread Very Carefully.
http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/engine-911/209922-2001-7-3l-cranks-but-no-start.html

Based on What Just happened to me I am say yours did the Same Thing.
It is alot easier to Pull the Valve covers than it seems or looks.
Pull them, I am betting you will smell Burnt Windings when One of them Opens up.
If so more than Likely One of your Injectors had the Coil Fry like mine did.
This also more than Likely took out your ICM and NOT the PCM.
You can get Just Injector Solenoids from Accurate Diesel here in Michigan and almost anything else you would need.
Depending on how Much work you want to do and How long you want to keep the truck there are other things you can do while you have it apart.
If you only want to get it running you can change the Solenoid and Not have to pull any of your Injectors. The ICM is available from Several Vendors on this Site.
It's all in the Thread.

 

[mjlmasonry]

Well was checking out the IPR and noticed the tin nut was missing along with the spacer, couldn't find them until I noticed a funny looking mound of oily sand in the valley, took a pair of extra long needle nose pliers and sure enough there they were. Cleaned it all up reinstalled them and the truck started right up. Truck runs much smoother and crisper. I think the tin nut has been loose/solenoid on the IPR loose for sometime now. Truck acts like when I bought it now.

Thanks to the posters for the tips and hints.