I have some updates coming so this thread will be under construction for the next week. I wanted to do a write up of my install of my new Kenwood radio and show how I made an older F250 without all the bells and whistles of a new truck made to be more modern.
First, you will need a few things.
1. New head unit that supports Bluetooth, Apple CarPlay/Android Auto, and camera input. For easier mirroring capabilities, get a head unit that already has an HDMI input.
2. Rear camera or dash cam (many options to choose from)
3. USB/HDMI Port for dash
So for me, this is what I used. Your own preference on radio, camera, and available outlets is up to you.
Kenwood DDX9903S Double Din receiver
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Esky Universal License Plate Frame Mount Camera, Waterproof High Sensitive 8 IR LED
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Axxess AX-FDUSBAUX USB/AUX/HDMI Media Port
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Today I go started on tackling the hard part which was the wiring harness and modifying the dash. The camera was already installed a while ago so I won't be covering this extensively, but I will add a few photos from the installation of the camera and explain the basic wiring.
So first:
1. Loosen the 8mm bolts on the negative battery cables and put them to the side.
2. Put the key in and turn on to the on position. If you parked on a hill, set your parking brake.
4. Put the shift selector in 1st gear (this is for clearance to get the dash out)
5. Adjust steering wheel at lowest level.
3. Begin removing the dash cover by prying near the headlight switch. Gently pull the dash out as it will just pop out. Work your way around the top and bottom releasing all the tabs until you get to the other side near the power point.
4. At this point, you have access to the miscellaneous plugs and connectors. Remove each one as necessary. Some truck have additional options like power rear window, or airbag on/off switch, or shift on the fly 4WD.
5. Once all plugs are unplugged, you can lift up and out towards the passenger side. Installation will be the opposite of removal.
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6. Now you should have clear access to the radio. Remove four 7mm bolts that hold the radio.
7. Now unplug the radio and the antenna and out with the old radio
8. Next is modification to the dash. I decided since the truck has essentially two cigarette lighter ports, I decided to cut out the one that says power point for my new USB/HDMI ports.
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9. First I measured the length and width of the plug. Then using a Dremel and cut off wheel, I cut out the hole. I also used another sanding wheel attachment to smooth out the rough edges. It didn't have to be perfectly square since the media port has a lip on it. It also has some clips that help it to snap in. (be sure not to make the hole to big!)
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10. I used my low wattage soldering iron and a tie strap, and plastic welded the back of the panel to the media port to make sure it was solid.
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11. Adding steering wheel controls. This allows the factory steering wheel controls to still work with the aftermarket radio. It comes with basic instructions on how to set up the steering wheel controller (usually the CRUX adapter cost around $30-$60). Note, the steering wheel doesn't have to be removed or anything and it was quite simple to do. I think this just adds to the professionalism and feel that makes the truck seem more modern.
12. Plug in the connections as per the instructions for my year, make, model and radio brand (this may vary depending on radio). Below is a picture of all the wiring (radio harness, CRUX adapter and harness, media port)
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13. The rest of the CRUX harness is basically the same as those other factory harness adapters for radios. Just need to splice the wires! For cleanliness and a sure connection, I solder my wires and heat shrink them. You can still use butt connectors, however, to be honest, with all the added wiring from the microphone, the radio GPS, the new media port, space is crucial so I decided this was the best route. Besides, everyone should learn the basic trait of soldering IMO
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14. Mount GPS and Mic. For this you have to remove the a-pillar. Remove the two rubber covers to expose four 8mm bolts for the o-crap handle. Remove the bolts. Then pull the rubber insulation just from the a-pillar. Then pull on the a-pillar cover. This also should just pop out. You will have to angle down and towards the passenger to wiggle out the bottom. Installation is basically the opposite of removal.
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15. Now mount (stick-on) your GPS sensor (if equipped) and microphone (TIP: be sure to leave some room for the mic if you are mounting near the a-pillar. When I reinstalled the a-pillar cover, it barely cleared the microphone).
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16. Feed the wires along the headliner, down the a-pillar, into the dash and back to the radio area.
17. At this point, I went ahead and also fed my new media port wires in through the dash and out by the radio.
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18. I also ran my SGII wire up through the dash and in the corner where the wire is out of the way and I can see my gauges a lot easier than in my cup holder. :thumb:
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19. Install camera(s)
20. Run wires along frame rail (be sure to use tie straps and wire loom)
21. Remove drivers door sill plate
22. Pull pack carpet to expose grommet on floor board.
23. Cut hole in grommet and run wires through and up to radio location behind dash.
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24. There are a couple different approaches to wiring. For me, I recommend running all wires up to the radio. The positive lead for the camera should tie in to the ignition (red) wire on the radio. The ground wire to the ground wire (black) on the radio, and the RCA to the "video in" or "camera input" on the radio. For mine, I ended up running my power and ground wire from the camera to the reverse wire and ground wire on the trailer plug. The reverse wire powers the camera on when it's put in reverse. Makes sense, however, the disadvantage is the camera can not be viewed unless it's in reverse. I'm going to change this eventually but at the time I installed the camera, I was ignorant :doh:
25. Next, the infamous "reverse wire" (purple wire) from radio. So a lot of people get stuck on this one :crazy:
26. Remove lower dash cover to get to fuse box.
27. Remove four bolts and fuse box will drop down enough to expose the back wiring.
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28. On my 2005, it was the BLACK WIRE w/PINK STRIPE (pic below)
29. To test yours, you will need a test light or voltmeter. With the KOEO, put the truck in reverse. This wire will be showing 12 volts only when in reverse. You can select other gears to confirm. Like I said, only when in reverse, this wire should be hot.
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30. Once confirmed, splice your reverse wire from the radio to this wire.
Also, just as a side not. In case you're wondering where your AUX switch wires are, they are located right here. These also run through the firewall and come out drivers side near power steering fluid reservoir.
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31. Once the harness was done and all the wires were ran, it was time to mount the radio and start plugging everything in. Some cables weren't very long, so the ones you can plug in while sitting on the seat, do first. If you have really long wiring, use tie wraps to bundle up the excess wiring., then plug in the last few connectors that are shorter last.
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32. Turn on key and start testing some things, like Bluetooth, HDMI, the hands-free calling, camera operation, and the rest. (TIP: Do this before reassembling the dash!)
Look at this wiring mess! :crazy:
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And the final product!
![]()
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What does a guy do to get a sticky around here? :thumb:
First, you will need a few things.
1. New head unit that supports Bluetooth, Apple CarPlay/Android Auto, and camera input. For easier mirroring capabilities, get a head unit that already has an HDMI input.
2. Rear camera or dash cam (many options to choose from)
3. USB/HDMI Port for dash
So for me, this is what I used. Your own preference on radio, camera, and available outlets is up to you.
Kenwood DDX9903S Double Din receiver
Esky Universal License Plate Frame Mount Camera, Waterproof High Sensitive 8 IR LED
Axxess AX-FDUSBAUX USB/AUX/HDMI Media Port
Today I go started on tackling the hard part which was the wiring harness and modifying the dash. The camera was already installed a while ago so I won't be covering this extensively, but I will add a few photos from the installation of the camera and explain the basic wiring.
So first:
1. Loosen the 8mm bolts on the negative battery cables and put them to the side.
2. Put the key in and turn on to the on position. If you parked on a hill, set your parking brake.
4. Put the shift selector in 1st gear (this is for clearance to get the dash out)
5. Adjust steering wheel at lowest level.
3. Begin removing the dash cover by prying near the headlight switch. Gently pull the dash out as it will just pop out. Work your way around the top and bottom releasing all the tabs until you get to the other side near the power point.
4. At this point, you have access to the miscellaneous plugs and connectors. Remove each one as necessary. Some truck have additional options like power rear window, or airbag on/off switch, or shift on the fly 4WD.
5. Once all plugs are unplugged, you can lift up and out towards the passenger side. Installation will be the opposite of removal.
6. Now you should have clear access to the radio. Remove four 7mm bolts that hold the radio.
7. Now unplug the radio and the antenna and out with the old radio
8. Next is modification to the dash. I decided since the truck has essentially two cigarette lighter ports, I decided to cut out the one that says power point for my new USB/HDMI ports.
9. First I measured the length and width of the plug. Then using a Dremel and cut off wheel, I cut out the hole. I also used another sanding wheel attachment to smooth out the rough edges. It didn't have to be perfectly square since the media port has a lip on it. It also has some clips that help it to snap in. (be sure not to make the hole to big!)
10. I used my low wattage soldering iron and a tie strap, and plastic welded the back of the panel to the media port to make sure it was solid.
11. Adding steering wheel controls. This allows the factory steering wheel controls to still work with the aftermarket radio. It comes with basic instructions on how to set up the steering wheel controller (usually the CRUX adapter cost around $30-$60). Note, the steering wheel doesn't have to be removed or anything and it was quite simple to do. I think this just adds to the professionalism and feel that makes the truck seem more modern.
12. Plug in the connections as per the instructions for my year, make, model and radio brand (this may vary depending on radio). Below is a picture of all the wiring (radio harness, CRUX adapter and harness, media port)
13. The rest of the CRUX harness is basically the same as those other factory harness adapters for radios. Just need to splice the wires! For cleanliness and a sure connection, I solder my wires and heat shrink them. You can still use butt connectors, however, to be honest, with all the added wiring from the microphone, the radio GPS, the new media port, space is crucial so I decided this was the best route. Besides, everyone should learn the basic trait of soldering IMO
14. Mount GPS and Mic. For this you have to remove the a-pillar. Remove the two rubber covers to expose four 8mm bolts for the o-crap handle. Remove the bolts. Then pull the rubber insulation just from the a-pillar. Then pull on the a-pillar cover. This also should just pop out. You will have to angle down and towards the passenger to wiggle out the bottom. Installation is basically the opposite of removal.
15. Now mount (stick-on) your GPS sensor (if equipped) and microphone (TIP: be sure to leave some room for the mic if you are mounting near the a-pillar. When I reinstalled the a-pillar cover, it barely cleared the microphone).
16. Feed the wires along the headliner, down the a-pillar, into the dash and back to the radio area.
17. At this point, I went ahead and also fed my new media port wires in through the dash and out by the radio.
18. I also ran my SGII wire up through the dash and in the corner where the wire is out of the way and I can see my gauges a lot easier than in my cup holder. :thumb:
19. Install camera(s)
20. Run wires along frame rail (be sure to use tie straps and wire loom)
21. Remove drivers door sill plate
22. Pull pack carpet to expose grommet on floor board.
23. Cut hole in grommet and run wires through and up to radio location behind dash.
24. There are a couple different approaches to wiring. For me, I recommend running all wires up to the radio. The positive lead for the camera should tie in to the ignition (red) wire on the radio. The ground wire to the ground wire (black) on the radio, and the RCA to the "video in" or "camera input" on the radio. For mine, I ended up running my power and ground wire from the camera to the reverse wire and ground wire on the trailer plug. The reverse wire powers the camera on when it's put in reverse. Makes sense, however, the disadvantage is the camera can not be viewed unless it's in reverse. I'm going to change this eventually but at the time I installed the camera, I was ignorant :doh:
25. Next, the infamous "reverse wire" (purple wire) from radio. So a lot of people get stuck on this one :crazy:
26. Remove lower dash cover to get to fuse box.
27. Remove four bolts and fuse box will drop down enough to expose the back wiring.
28. On my 2005, it was the BLACK WIRE w/PINK STRIPE (pic below)
29. To test yours, you will need a test light or voltmeter. With the KOEO, put the truck in reverse. This wire will be showing 12 volts only when in reverse. You can select other gears to confirm. Like I said, only when in reverse, this wire should be hot.
30. Once confirmed, splice your reverse wire from the radio to this wire.
Also, just as a side not. In case you're wondering where your AUX switch wires are, they are located right here. These also run through the firewall and come out drivers side near power steering fluid reservoir.
31. Once the harness was done and all the wires were ran, it was time to mount the radio and start plugging everything in. Some cables weren't very long, so the ones you can plug in while sitting on the seat, do first. If you have really long wiring, use tie wraps to bundle up the excess wiring., then plug in the last few connectors that are shorter last.
32. Turn on key and start testing some things, like Bluetooth, HDMI, the hands-free calling, camera operation, and the rest. (TIP: Do this before reassembling the dash!)
Look at this wiring mess! :crazy:
And the final product!
What does a guy do to get a sticky around here? :thumb:
