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Discussion Starter #1
Hello fellow forum members. It’s been a while since I have posted. I have an engine problem that I require experienced expert opinion. I know this is long. I tried to be very thorough, I really appreciate the time you take to help..

Engine;
6.4 powerstroke .20 over
.20 over ceramic coated mahle pistons
Dynamic diesel stage 1 kit (stage 1 cam, mahle clevite bearings, HD lifters, all gaskets etc..)
River city diesel high rev valve springs
River city diesel chromoly pushrods
6.0 manifold w/ custom up pipes
Arp studs torqued to 275
NL air intake
cold side pipe
Pusher intake elbow
Spartan tuning
Been running the 325hp tune since 10,000km on after break in. Currently the engine has 35,000km

Background;
Engine was built two years ago, the long block (minus turbos and intake)was assembled by a reputable machine shop. They charged me $2200 CAD for the work.
They said they magnafluxed the heads and checked for cracks. I had a used block brought to them I assume they also checked for squareness and cracks, my original engine trashed the block. Trucks got an 8” lift and 37s on 24s

Problem;
Truck was originally a summer vehicle. I built it two years ago. For those who remember my post was probably the longest thread and had the most views from me being incoherent to others. Which again I apologize for. ANYWAYS.
My trucks only got 35k, I ran into some financial issues lately and I was forced to drive it in the winter. Long story short. I haven’t had heat since the beginning of this winter. On -35 days up here in Ontario Canada it IS brutal. I’m tired of my fingers freezing. I assume I blew the head gaskets. I can’t keep coolant in it. Pushed out the bottle, My rad is blowing apart along the bottom. And I have no heat.
One day I was driving during the summer towing an empty 14x9 (Aprox) trailer on the 325tune, I got on it for about 100ft 3/4 throttle (hot day out as well) when I came to the end of the 100ft which was a light so full stop. A puff of white smoke came out the exhaust. That was probably at around 15,000km and since then 15,000+Km later, I have never ever seen another puff of white smoke come out of the exhaust. Even towing my 30ft 12,000 fifth wheel. I started researching and came up with; steam out of the inter cooler or coolant in exhaust. I never saw anything about fuel or anything else.
1.) do you think it’s normal to blow hg’s at 35,000km when built/studded with proper(assumed) machine work done, running the 325 hp tune? Again I won’t be surprised nor upset if a yes I’m just asking.
2.) do you think I should of o ringed the heads. I honestly totally forgot about oringing and I could of had it done. But completely slipped my mind. What an awful awful mistake. I read somewhere @toren302 had only his truck oringed and he built one similar to his without them and that customer beat his truck and it’s been fine (which I don’t really beat mine but yeah I’m on it a lot and I see 40+ lbs a lot.. I won’t lie when lockup hits..this thing pulls like absolute crazy). Anyways. For the experienced guys.. was it bad machine work? Or should I oring them.. and is there anyone who is willing to help me out with this? I’m in Ontario but I’ll ship. There’s no reputable shops around me and I want this done RIGHT. Is there anything else that can cause this? Or no remedy for an idiot with a heavy foot? Minus an expensive bottom end and fully built bottom end which I can not afford.
3.) was that puff of white smoke the entry sign of a blown HG and then just sealed?. I don’t know. What else could it of been? Cracked heads? I’m just asking because I have friends with built diesels and they are stumped as well that’s it’s not-on going.

Next problem, I’ll be on it let’s say leaving a light and with traction I floor it. The truck cuts out. Like no power rpms just drop. If I let off the pedal for a second and get back on it. It’s there. I don’t know how many races I’ve lost because of it and I’m wondering if it’s transmission related. Yes it’s a stock transmission with 160k. I don’t expect it NOT to be a tranny problem. Or tuning problem, but upon a lot of research I can’t find any other guys having this problem. If it’s tuning then WHO is the best and who should I run? Again I’m just asking for the experienced guys.

Last problem!
My delta temps!!! Damn I have heated this thing up to the point my spartan dash daq was at the Beeping warning for coolant temp AND oil temp.. Max like 20 minutes till I just coasted home. I pray I didn’t crack the heads (if they aren’t already) or do any other damage. The oil cooler to be honest was another item I FORGOT about when I built the engine.. I bought a new hpfp but not a oil cooler.. i know idiot move.
This is going to sound crazy.. but I forget if I brought the old engine to them. Or just the new pistons and stage 1 kit and bare block and new rods and if they assembled it without an oil cooler? Is this possible?
If I did bring it to them and I just have a horrible memory..could this be clogged even tho it was cleaned? (assuming they machine shop did IF they had one..haha) could the hg’s cause this issue or is the oil cooler causing the hg issue?!

Last but not least. While I redo this mess up.
WHAT ELSE SHOULD I ADD.
Lift pump?
Coolant filters?
Potted rails?
Remote oil cooler?
What else did I miss building this engine. I’m looking for the most reliability at the highest (stock fuel and air) hp point. I drive my truck. So I want honest answers for someone who uses there truck.. I spent $15,000 on this engine and I know that’s a fraction of what can be done. So hit me with everything I should do to make this a future reliable daily driven summer and winter 800-1000hp truck. Minus fuel and air. I’ll ask them on another post. Just supporting mods now.

Thank you for reading this novel! Please if I didn’t make it clear, have mercy!



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Mr. Crossthread
Joined
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4,458 Posts
Hello fellow forum members. It’s been a while since I have posted. I have an engine problem that I require experienced expert opinion. I know this is long. I tried to be very thorough, I really appreciate the time you take to help..

Engine;
6.4 powerstroke .20 over
.20 over ceramic coated mahle pistons
Dynamic diesel stage 1 kit (stage 1 cam, mahle clevite bearings, HD lifters, all gaskets etc..)
River city diesel high rev valve springs
River city diesel chromoly pushrods
6.0 manifold w/ custom up pipes
Arp studs torqued to 275
NL air intake
cold side pipe
Pusher intake elbow
Spartan tuning
Been running the 325hp tune since 10,000km on after break in. Currently the engine has 35,000km

Background;
Engine was built two years ago, the long block (minus turbos and intake)was assembled by a reputable machine shop. They charged me $2200 CAD for the work.
They said they magnafluxed the heads and checked for cracks. I had a used block brought to them I assume they also checked for squareness and cracks, my original engine trashed the block. Trucks got an 8” lift and 37s on 24s
Heads machined flat??? Block surface prepped??
Problem;
Truck was originally a summer vehicle. I built it two years ago. For those who remember my post was probably the longest thread and had the most views from me being incoherent to others. Which again I apologize for. ANYWAYS.
My trucks only got 35k, I ran into some financial issues lately and I was forced to drive it in the winter. Long story short. I haven’t had heat since the beginning of this winter. On -35 days up here in Ontario Canada it IS brutal. I’m tired of my fingers freezing. I assume I blew the head gaskets. I can’t keep coolant in it. Pushed out the bottle, My rad is blowing apart along the bottom. And I have no heat.
One day I was driving during the summer towing an empty 14x9 (Aprox) trailer on the 325tune, I got on it for about 100ft 3/4 throttle (hot day out as well) when I came to the end of the 100ft which was a light so full stop. A puff of white smoke came out the exhaust. Not a great idea, engine rebuilt or not. lol That was probably at around 15,000km and since then 15,000+Km later, I have never ever seen another puff of white smoke come out of the exhaust. Even towing my 30ft 12,000 fifth wheel. I started researching and came up with; steam out of the inter cooler or coolant in exhaust. I never saw anything about fuel or anything else.
1.) do you think it’s normal to blow hg’s at 35,000km when built/studded with proper(assumed) machine work done, running the 325 hp tune? Again I won’t be surprised nor upset if a yes I’m just asking. Very much so, nobody knows what happened in that machine shop. No offense to any machinists ( I have a lot of respect for those guys ) but just because they are machinists doesnt mean they can build engines. I have no idea what the skill level of that shop is though.
2.) do you think I should of o ringed the heads. YES I honestly totally forgot about oringing and I could of had it done. But completely slipped my mind. What an awful awful mistake. I read somewhere @toren302 had only his truck oringed and he built one similar to his without them and that customer beat his truck and it’s been fine (which I don’t really beat mine but yeah I’m on it a lot and I see 40+ lbs a lot.. I won’t lie when lockup hits..this thing pulls like absolute crazy). Anyways. For the experienced guys.. was it bad machine work? Very possible, but wont know until torn apart Or should I oring them.. YES and is there anyone who is willing to help me out with this? I’m in Ontario but I’ll ship. There’s no reputable shops around me and I want this done RIGHT. Is there anything else that can cause this? Or no remedy for an idiot with a heavy foot? Minus an expensive bottom end and fully built bottom end which I can not afford.
3.) was that puff of white smoke the entry sign of a blown HG and then just sealed?. I don’t know. What else could it of been? Cracked heads? I’m just asking because I have friends with built diesels and they are stumped as well that’s it’s not-on going. Could be gaskets leaking under load, or leaking/sticking fuel injector(s)

Next problem, I’ll be on it let’s say leaving a light and with traction I floor it. The truck cuts out. Like no power rpms just drop. If I let off the pedal for a second and get back on it. It’s there. I don’t know how many races I’ve lost because of it and I’m wondering if it’s transmission related. Yes it’s a stock transmission with 160k. I don’t expect it NOT to be a tranny problem. Or tuning problem, but upon a lot of research I can’t find any other guys having this problem. If it’s tuning then WHO is the best and who should I run? Again I’m just asking for the experienced guys. Sounds engine related, Ive had FRP sensors cause this multiple times but hard to diag over a forum. Need to watch rail pressure when it happens

Last problem!
My delta temps!!! Damn I have heated this thing up to the point my spartan dash daq was at the Beeping warning for coolant temp AND oil temp.. Max like 20 minutes till I just coasted home. I pray I didn’t crack the heads (if they aren’t already) or do any other damage. The oil cooler to be honest was another item I FORGOT about when I built the engine.. I bought a new hpfp but not a oil cooler.. i know idiot move.
This is going to sound crazy.. but I forget if I brought the old engine to them. Or just the new pistons and stage 1 kit and bare block and new rods and if they assembled it without an oil cooler? Is this possible?
If I did bring it to them and I just have a horrible memory..could this be clogged even tho it was cleaned? (assuming they machine shop did IF they had one..haha) could the hg’s cause this issue or is the oil cooler causing the hg issue?! All the work done couldve stirred up sediment and clogged the cooler, definitely sounds like an oil cooler issue. The oil cooler itself cant blow head gaskets, and its not possible to just not install one unless you have a relocated air/oil cooler.

Last but not least. While I redo this mess up.
WHAT ELSE SHOULD I ADD.
Lift pump?
Coolant filters?
Potted rails?
Remote oil cooler?
What else did I miss building this engine. I’m looking for the most reliability at the highest (stock fuel and air) hp point. I drive my truck. So I want honest answers for someone who uses there truck.. I spent $15,000 on this engine and I know that’s a fraction of what can be done. So hit me with everything I should do to make this a future reliable daily driven summer and winter 800-1000hp truck. Minus fuel and air. I’ll ask them on another post. Just supporting mods now. You wont like this... but... Buy an assembled long block with a warranty from a reputable performance engine source. You say you dont run the truck that hard but your stories in this post contradict that statement. Racing, hard acceleration, heavy throttle on a race tune with a trailer attached etc. Spend the money once and be done (well twice now I guess)
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Responses in the quote.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Responses in the quote.


Thank you. I believe they surfaced them and checked everything. But like you said who knows.

I watch rail pressure IT DOES NOT DROP.

As for the long block..you really are right. I just can’t afford it. I got a free truck with a 6.4 in it that apparently is either cracked a piston or lost a lifters I hope this block is good and I can just get this one professionally rebuilt with all my old parts by a REPUTABLE MACHINE SHOP??? I can NOT afford a long block. And this is my ONLY on road vehicle. You’re also right. I’m hard on it.

Parts truck


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Discussion Starter #4
I also have this 08 Harley truck that I want to build stock 6.4 370,000 but runs good so I got some parts here to work with..I want to have this Harley truck
My main.. by the end of summer.



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Mr. Crossthread
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4,458 Posts
Im very hard on my truck also, but you have to pay to play haha. If you cant afford a long block then when you repair this engine, turn the tune down and try to stay out of it when you have weight behind you lol. Definitely o-ring the heads or buy a new set pre ringed, also check block surface. All that being said, the gaskets should've last longer than what they did racing or not. IF that's even your issue, have you ran a T into a coolant hose and checked cooling system pressure?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Im very hard on my truck also, but you have to pay to play haha. If you cant afford a long block then when you repair this engine, turn the tune down and try to stay out of it when you have weight behind you lol. Definitely o-ring the heads or buy a new set pre ringed, also check block surface. All that being said, the gaskets should've last longer than what they did racing or not. IF that's even your issue, have you ran a T into a coolant hose and checked cooling system pressure?


I’m planning to run a T with gauge this week.
Blow by is good doesn’t blow the cap off even on last threads sitting there-Last time I checked.
Someone suggested cracked block.
And yeah I’ll do that for sure. Just need to find a machine shop who CAN oring my heads..


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Mr. Crossthread
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I’m planning to run a T with gauge this week.
Blow by is good doesn’t blow the cap off even on last threads sitting there-Last time I checked.
Someone suggested cracked block.
And yeah I’ll do that for sure. Just need to find a machine shop who CAN oring my heads..


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I cant help you with that part, good luck on your search.
 

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Mr. Crossthread
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