Excursion top end upgrades

I'm a bit biased, but I'd do this fuel line kit vs the frx hoses.


Otherwise the list looks good.

With everything apart on the top, I'd inspect your under valve cover gaskets and harnesses, install a non-ebpv turbo pedestal, install plenum reinforcement bushings, inspect your CAC boots if they are squishy (oil saturated), maybe reseal your oil cooler, depending on how many miles, but consider replacing the low pressure oil pump.

I have everything on your list and the things I mentioned on the shelf.

If you want to put a list together and email me, we can quote you a package price. [email protected]

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

[email protected] said:

I'm a bit biased, but I'd do this fuel line kit vs the frx hoses.

CNC Fabrication 7.3L 4 line feed fuel line kit

Upgrade your fuel-system with our 4-line-feed fuel-line kit designed to eliminate the infamous #8 injector knock and fuel starvation in the #1 and #8 cylinders during higher RPMs and heavy throttle while towing.

cncfab.us

Otherwise the list looks good.

With everything apart on the top, I'd inspect your under valve cover gaskets and harnesses, install a non-ebpv turbo pedestal, install plenum reinforcement bushings, inspect your CAC boots if they are squishy (oil saturated), maybe reseal your oil cooler, depending on how many miles, but consider replacing the low pressure oil pump.

I have everything on your list and the things I mentioned on the shelf.

If you want to put a list together and email me, we can quote you a package price. [email protected]

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

Click to expand...

Thanks Corey! It was a very difficult decision for me deciding between the FRX and your 4 line feed. The fuel parts were the last thing I ordered.

I forgot to put in that I'd already put in the plenum bushings, all CAC boots replaced when intercooler swapped 2-3 years ago (boots still look good), and the turbo pedestal had already been swapped for non-EBPV. I'm replacing the valve cover gaskets and harnesses along with pulling and resealing oil cooler. It has 290K miles on it now, hadn't thought of the LPOP but haven't had any issues with it.

Cleaned up and inspected all the pushrods and rocker arm assemblies. All looked good and still plenty of copper on the tops of the pushrods. Cleaned up the valley and started swapping out HPOP when went to pull out the mounting bolt next to the ICP valve it came out a little too easily. When I mounted the new CNC Fab HPOP that bolt just spun and never started to get tension. Going to try a helicoil and if that doesn't work will go to the HPOP bolt repair kit as it looks like it will bore out enough for it's insert if the helicoil doesn't work.

Sorry, didn't do any photos. Was too busy working on it. So it took almost 8 weeks to get heads back and finally installed on the truck. Had to get another oil cooler/filter mount because a garage mishap cause my original one to get broken. One of the new valve cover harnesses was bad, had to replace that. Batteries had gone to crap, could barely turn engine or hold charge so replaced those. Finally got oil up into HPOP reservoir but no fire because ICP reading zero even though was "new" Amazon sensor. Replaced ICP with Motorcraft one, and didn't see any oil inside the heads. Replaced IPR with Motorcraft one and she finally fired up. Took forever cranking until finally enough ICP pressure to fire up. Ran rough and cackled like a mofo for a bit but started to smooth out. Only let it run for about 3-5 minutes. Let it sit overnight to let air settle out of fuel system. Went to fire up last night and took forever again to get enough ICP to fire, ran for a second and died. Did that several times until it fired and ran smooth. Waited until oil/water at temp and drove it around. Noticed that the IPR duty cycle was higher than normal. It was around 15% when idling when normally around 9-10%. Not sure why it took lots of cranking to get enough ICP pressure to fire. Maybe just from sitting for so long? Salvage yard oil cooler/filter mount didn't look damaged. Has 4 gallons of fresh Rotella 15w-40 and oil level correct. Will check the HPOP reservoir before trying tonight to see if it's empty before firing up tonight. Hopefully won't take 15+ seconds of cranking to get enough ICP to start. What might be the cause? It did sit for 8 weeks with no oil in the engine, waiting on heads. Has new CNC Fab stage 1 HPOP and lines (including crossover). Have not replaced LPOP as oil pressure has been good (forgot to put plug back into HPOP reservoir and shot oil all over), also had no issues prior with slow ICP pressure at start.

It fired up fine last night, only spun the starter about 5 seconds before it lit up. Ran smoothly and without issue during the drive home. This morning fired right up after spinning the starter about 3 seconds and drove the 20 miles to work without issue. It rolled coal getting on the highway, but engine was still not at running temp, computer probably still learning everything, and new parts settling in. It didn't smoke later on when getting on it and was at temp. All looks good so far, was just a bit nervous about slow ICP pressure build up at first. Put a lot of $$ and new parts into her and wanted to make sure no more issues. So far, haven't really pushed it or tried any other tunes beyond modified stock. Will run her for 500 miles and an oil change before trying other tunes and pushing her so she has time to settle into all the upgrades.

Many many many thanks to the fine folks at CNC Fab, Riffraff Diesel, and KC Turbos! I called all of you asking questions before and after purchase of the parts and everyone was very helpful. THANK YOU!!

On a side note, my 69 year old mother thought that the KC Turbos KC300x turbo was the neatest thing. Kept spinning the compressor wheel and poking at the anti-surge holes. Every time she came out into the garage while it was sitting on the bench, she had to play with it.