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E04 Ford X EB 6.0 SixGun w/ M Exhaust, Clown, Monster Exhaust, BPD FICM & 7.3 Fanmod, CAI, 4X4
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
E04 X. 250k. Stock turbo (new VGT solenoid), updated turbo oil supply & drain, OEM injectors (2k miles), BPD water pump, SD EGR delete, 7.3 bpd fan mod, cold air intake, FS by pass oil filtration, SD coolant filtration, Banks 6 Gun w Dash IQ and monster exhaust.

short story: wife’s ride until we had our ninth kid...she’s hot. Married way out of my league. At nine, she got a transit. I finally got the X. PTL!!! A week later, hpop. Then injectors. Why? Crap mechanic. She may have birthed 9, but I have been ridden hard and hung up wet by every dealer/diesel shop in this burg. But last year I thought I found a good one.

new mechanic honeymoon was great. Finally fixed my hpop leak. Then my upper oil pan leak (after I had already paid someone else to do it). Then I had them do all my injectors back in April of 19. It was a daily driver and I pretty much ran an Econ tune forever.

I was towing a trailer in April 2020 and was T boned but the impact was my trailer.Wound up jumping the X over a drive way towing 6 yards of wet mulch about 3’ of air. Still ran but no steering or 4x4.
Took it to my shop. Insurance got the bill, so I’m like, “fix dis!” New oil lines, furl lines, hub assemblies, Warn hubs, cold air, stabilizer, shocks and turbo up pipe. I only gave one request: check the head gaskets.
8 freaking weeks later (insurance not mechanics fault) I get a call. “Almost done man. Just one question: did you ever have overheating issues?
Heart stops. “No. Never. I know my Deltas like I know the Gospel.” (I baby this think)

next day phone call. “Hey, can you come down here? Need to talk.”

the talk. “Your head gaskets are blown. Mike didn’t check and now it’s all together and he just quit. So, now I don’t have a diesel guy and we can’t fix your truck.” Still got paid $3800...
So, I am done fooling around. This is the last time! (Right...) I’ll fix it my dang self.

Disclaimer: I’m in sales. I have two project cars and they are power wheels. And they don’t work. Seriously. I’m not technically gifted at all.

So, I join this forum and read everything I can. Here is what I decided to do:

ARP studs, New CAM position sensor drivers side, head gaskets, heads machined while maintaining etching (I know I’m brutalizing this), new icp, IPM, ebp sensor, banjo bolt upgrade, 7.3 fan mod, bpd water pump, turbo supply and drain tubes updated, vgt solenoid, turbo serviced polished and cleaned, new glow plug harness, new injector harness, bpd FICM, new thermostat, EGR delete (had it just never did it), and some custom engine bay paint. Why paint? Because I needed to fill the time while waiting for my balls to drop to go to the next level.

So, build complete. Going for the test start and idle test. Follow the cycling procedure and the first true attempt to start, she starts with a roar!!! The 7.3 fan mod scarred the crap out of me. I thought I blew a pipe.

She idles smooth. No smoke. I was expecting a lot of smoke. None. I kept the build surgically clean. Still, no smoke though.

I know how it used to sound but with all those changes, I didn’t know what it was supposed to sound like...but that sound made my man parts tingle.

That’s where the fun ends. I soon notice my idash is not getting data. I’m getting voltage, no data. Easy, blown in line fuse (never asked myself why). Replace fuse and there we are. Take it for a short test drive and...it runs like a moose on ice with three broken legs. Awful. Then, no data from idash. Fuse good. Nothing coming in. Grab the scan tool and I have 19 freaking codes! Some of these codes are unreported or hard as heck to resolve and I need help in a bad way. Obviously, based on my mods, I should have four background codes; fan and EGR. But the rest, please help?


1408
0403
0405
050C
P0C14 drive motor B inverter phase U over temp invalid signal
P0000
460
1876 transfer case 2wd drive solenoid circuit open or short to ground
1832
1483
B1352 ignition circuit
U1262 CSP data fail
P0046-60 turbo boost control solenoid circuit range/performance
P0281-60 cylinder 7 contribution
P0480 cooling fan
P0528 cooling fan
P0671 cylinder 1
672 cylinder 2
673 cylinder 3
674 cylinder 4
675 cylinder 5
676
677
678

After my test tonight, this is what I have. I put four hours in to checking every wire I could. No breaks or burns. It looks good.The poc14 code threw me. U1262, can’t find it. The P046 is why I changed the vgt solenoid.
I have been asked if I put the belt on correctly or if I could have a big air pocket. Belt I believe, is on correctly. Air pocket? I have no clue.
I desperately need guidance. Any help would be appreciated.
 

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U1262 SCP (J1850) Communication Bus Fault

I can see you having an "air pocket," but certainly would not make all those codes. Maybe air in the high pressure oil lines would lead to a long start until it clears.

Cabling that frequently is bad is the back FICM connectors don't snap all the way. The PCM is located on the driver side up towards the headlight. There's three connectors there. Take a look at those for knicks, loosness, or being undone. I have to be careful putting the battery in there because I find it difficult to not clip those connectors when putting the battery back in. Also, the cable to the injectors needs to be routed correctly, like a puzzle, or it can lead to chaffing. There's also a grounding wire you remove when you remove the Fuel injector to FICM cable. I think it attaches to the drivers side intake. If that is not hooked up, strange codes pop up.

My really wild guess is that this is a harness problem, with more than one wire being the problem.
 

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E04 Ford X EB 6.0 SixGun w/ M Exhaust, Clown, Monster Exhaust, BPD FICM & 7.3 Fanmod, CAI, 4X4
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
U1262 SCP (J1850) Communication Bus Fault

I can see you having an "air pocket," but certainly would not make all those codes. Maybe air in the high pressure oil lines would lead to a long start until it clears.

Cabling that frequently is bad is the back FICM connectors don't snap all the way. The PCM is located on the driver side up towards the headlight. There's three connectors there. Take a look at those for knicks, loosness, or being undone. I have to be careful putting the battery in there because I find it difficult to not clip those connectors when putting the battery back in. Also, the cable to the injectors needs to be routed correctly, like a puzzle, or it can lead to chaffing. There's also a grounding wire you remove when you remove the Fuel injector to FICM cable. I think it attaches to the drivers side intake. If that is not hooked up, strange codes pop up.

My really wild guess is that this is a harness problem, with more than one wire being the problem.
I figure I have an air pocket issue. But those have to be worked out through driving unless someone knows how to burp a Powerstroke...
I am about to go over to it and put the nightly six hours on it. I added the PCM connectors check, ground wire on the rear behind the FICM check from your comment. Thank you.
Here is my plan of action tonight to include the above plus:
Fuse 27, ohm out PVH vac hub solenoid at the RF fender area for code P1876
Remove IPR valve (new) and check for debris that might have been caught up during rebuild for Code U1262
Fuse 22 and check (again, again, again...) the wire harness going to the transmission for code B1342
MAF check and diagnostic, MAP check and diagnostic, EBP check for cleanliness...clean! if I didn't already, and EBP tube for code P132B
P0500, that is an ABS Control Module. I am doing that research right now.

Test during lunch:
Attached EGR Sensor and placed it on the top of the motor.
Codes Cleared, ignition to on, New Read
P1876, U1262, U2016, B1342, P0528 (fan, 7.3 mod BPD), P0480 (fan, 7.3 mod BPD),
Started, New Read:
P0671-P0678 Glow plugs- I did replace the glow plug harness. This is a week into it (testing, actual build is embarrassingly long) and it has gone from one glow plug to all glow plugs.
Test Drive (short, 1/10th a mile), New Read:
P132B
P1876 2wd solenoid
P1832 4wd solenoid
P0500 VSS sensor circuit failure
P132B Turbo Boost Control A

Engine Motor vehicle Auto part Vehicle Car
Hood Vehicle Car Engine Auto part
 

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I figure I have an air pocket issue. But those have to be worked out through driving unless someone knows how to burp a Powerstroke...
I am about to go over to it and put the nightly six hours on it. I added the PCM connectors check, ground wire on the rear behind the FICM check from your comment. Thank you.
Here is my plan of action tonight to include the above plus:
Fuse 27, ohm out PVH vac hub solenoid at the RF fender area for code P1876
Remove IPR valve (new) and check for debris that might have been caught up during rebuild for Code U1262
Fuse 22 and check (again, again, again...) the wire harness going to the transmission for code B1342
MAF check and diagnostic, MAP check and diagnostic, EBP check for cleanliness...clean! if I didn't already, and EBP tube for code P132B
P0500, that is an ABS Control Module. I am doing that research right now.

Test during lunch:
Attached EGR Sensor and placed it on the top of the motor.
Codes Cleared, ignition to on, New Read
P1876, U1262, U2016, B1342, P0528 (fan, 7.3 mod BPD), P0480 (fan, 7.3 mod BPD),
Started, New Read:
P0671-P0678 Glow plugs- I did replace the glow plug harness. This is a week into it (testing, actual build is embarrassingly long) and it has gone from one glow plug to all glow plugs.
Test Drive (short, 1/10th a mile), New Read:
P132B
P1876 2wd solenoid
P1832 4wd solenoid
P0500 VSS sensor circuit failure
P132B Turbo Boost Control A

View attachment 771042 View attachment 771043
Boy howdy you have a lot going on lol

have you already load tested batteries?
 

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E04 Ford X EB 6.0 SixGun w/ M Exhaust, Clown, Monster Exhaust, BPD FICM & 7.3 Fanmod, CAI, 4X4
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Working through everything and found a blown fuse, FICM 30A, and missing fuse 27. Replaced both. Got a call from a tech and we were rapping on about everything I check and he asked me about batteries. I’m like, “man, I had those on the trickle charger since I took them off. They passed tests. They are good.” “Did you test them independently?” I said, “uh, no.”
So I test them independently with the headlight test. Drivers side, no issues. Passengers side I saw something funny. Amp fluctuations. Not much, but enough to get me thinking. Pulled the battery and removed the protective felt ring and boom! Crack in the plastic around the terminal. Long shot, but man, and internal short from someone beating the connection on...maybe.
Got it tested and boom! She bad! It was only a year old so they gave me a new one. Popped her in, cleared the codes and started over. Went from 19 codes to 6. As far as improvement percentages, I’m killing it.

starts instantly. Smokes for little bit, to be expected. Then smooths out. I get a little gitty. Could it be? Well, no actually. But it is better. Took it for a five mile test drive and I believe I found another mechanical issue causing turbo performance issues: loose connection at the manifold on the y pipe. That’s where the burping is coming from. Not the cold air intake. Feeling pretty stupid.
New code list:

P0603
U2306
U1262
B1352
U2016
B1342

These are frustrating codes and my tuner doesn’t work. I changed the inline fuse, but still nothing. Brain fried and cold. Had to shut it down. Plus, it’s starting to have consequences with the wife. Too much time.
Research tonight and hit it again tomorrow.
 

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Here's a list of DTC codes I downloaded. Includes the hard to find Ford Only codes. 97 pages worth.
 

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Working through everything and found a blown fuse, FICM 30A, and missing fuse 27. Replaced both. Got a call from a tech and we were rapping on about everything I check and he asked me about batteries. I’m like, “man, I had those on the trickle charger since I took them off. They passed tests. They are good.” “Did you test them independently?” I said, “uh, no.”
So I test them independently with the headlight test. Drivers side, no issues. Passengers side I saw something funny. Amp fluctuations. Not much, but enough to get me thinking. Pulled the battery and removed the protective felt ring and boom! Crack in the plastic around the terminal. Long shot, but man, and internal short from someone beating the connection on...maybe.
Got it tested and boom! She bad! It was only a year old so they gave me a new one. Popped her in, cleared the codes and started over. Went from 19 codes to 6. As far as improvement percentages, I’m killing it.

starts instantly. Smokes for little bit, to be expected. Then smooths out. I get a little gitty. Could it be? Well, no actually. But it is better. Took it for a five mile test drive and I believe I found another mechanical issue causing turbo performance issues: loose connection at the manifold on the y pipe. That’s where the burping is coming from. Not the cold air intake. Feeling pretty stupid.
New code list:

P0603
U2306
U1262
B1352
U2016
B1342

These are frustrating codes and my tuner doesn’t work. I changed the inline fuse, but still nothing. Brain fried and cold. Had to shut it down. Plus, it’s starting to have consequences with the wife. Too much time.
Research tonight and hit it again tomorrow.
P0603
So this is a power train control model (keep alive memory) code supposedly this comes from new tuning

U2306
(UBP Invalid Data fom Node ID $60 (IC) VSM)
I have no idea what this is lol

U1262 is a communication bus failure which means the communications system between PCM, IDM, GEM fail to communicate with each other. Sounds like a connection may be loose in the harness.

B1352 is a key in ignition circuit fault.

U2016 Overhead trip computer link circuit failure. They all practically have this when the overhead stops working

B1342 faulty control module

I would say that the PCM Is fried but if your pulling codes and the truck is running. I think it’s fine. I think you have some circuit issues. Some of these codes come with the territory of how much you just did to the truck.
Inspect ground wires, wire chaffing hot spots and you got the batteries handled already.
 

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Not to be a party pooper, but I would change the driver's side battery as well. These trucks like to be paired with equal power at the same time. Just my $0.02...

-jokester
 

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I would change the driver's side battery as well.
I did not believe that both batteries should be changed at once until I read an article with a lot of math which showed because of the different resistance in batteries at different outputs is not the same unless the batteries are balanced. A lot of ohms law using voltage amperage wattage and resistance to make the point.

The way I understood it is the stronger battery in a parallel systems provides most of the power and over time will match the low battery. This causes the battery to be changed out quicker.
 

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E04 Ford X EB 6.0 SixGun w/ M Exhaust, Clown, Monster Exhaust, BPD FICM & 7.3 Fanmod, CAI, 4X4
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Al
Here's a list of DTC codes I downloaded. Includes the hard to find Ford Only codes. 97 pages worth.
ChrisSki thank you. I am about an hour away from finishing work and head back over. Starting to do more research on the codes. This helps. I sincerely appreciate it.
 

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E04 Ford X EB 6.0 SixGun w/ M Exhaust, Clown, Monster Exhaust, BPD FICM & 7.3 Fanmod, CAI, 4X4
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Not to be a party pooper, but I would change the driver's side battery as well. These trucks like to be paired with equal power at the same time. Just my $0.02...

-jokester
I took the battery in and once it failed, the manager gave me a new one and told me to bring the other one in tomorrow and the would change it out so I would have two equal batteries. For free. I am humbled and very thankful for the community around me supporting me doing something everyone realizes is way, way...way out of my league.
 

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E04 Ford X EB 6.0 SixGun w/ M Exhaust, Clown, Monster Exhaust, BPD FICM & 7.3 Fanmod, CAI, 4X4
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
11/17 Electrical Hunting. Read Code before Start after code clear:
P1876
U1262
U2016 OH trip computer signal link failure
B1342 ECU internal fault
P0528 Fan Speed- this will be here. Removed the fan clutch and added the 7.3 clutch adapter and BPD water pump.
P0480 Fan control Circuit Malfunction. Removed the fan clutch and added the 7.3 clutch adapter and BPD water pump.

Cleared Codes after battery DS replaced and fuse 31 & 105. Started:
P0671-78 glow plugs

Let the engine warm to temp, cleared codes, cycled ignition. Drove five miles. After drive codes present:
P1876 2wd solenoid circuit failure
P1832 4wd solenoid circuit failure
P0500 VSS Sensor circuit failure
P132B turbo boost control A

Observations:
I have an exhaust leak. I could not tell before because I had not put the engine under load. Under load, I get a burping from right in front of the pedals, drivers side. My assumption is the Y pipe connection to the manifold. At first I thought this was the hpop processing out some air, but I hit some hills and it showed itself pretty well.

11/18 Plan
Replace DS battery to match PS battery replaced 11/17. Check pipe connections on the back of the turbo and at the manifolds. OHM 4wd/2wd solenoid and connector. After ensuring the pipe connections are solid, drive same five mile test. It burping no longer present, check for speed and turbo performance and return. Pull codes and see what we get. Then check for presence of P0500 after to start routing that out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
11/18/20 night shift work:
Great news! Driver's side battery was also bad. Only in this circumstance could that be great news. The battery passed voltage test, enhanced tests, programmer tests, but when put on the fancy machine, it came up bad. internal fault. I took it in with my charger having it 100%,machine said 34% and 51 minutes to fully charge. it began charging and ten minutes later failed it.

Codes before battery replacement: 0603, 0670, 1000, U2016, B1352, U1262, 1832, 1876, U1950. Freaking three U codes. Heart beginning to break.

So, I got the new battery and put that bad boy in. I checked the exhaust manifold connections and they were good. Frustrating, but alright. Still searching for the exhaust burp... I cleared codes, cycled the ignition, and started up. Another long start (5-8 seconds) and she fired up. Rough idle for about a minute and then smoothed out.

I let the engine get to temp and then read codes: P1000, U1262, P1876

Then I did a KOER test and I think I found the culprit for the rough running, amongst other things, P1284 and P2284. ICP!!!! This is the first time the ICP has popped up. The ICP is new and was replaced during the build. Every sensor back there and around the turbo has been replaced. However, the plug looked worse for ware. Turns out, the plug must be worse than that. It has a short in it. I will have the pigtail in before lunch and you all know what I am doing for lunch. I will update.

Another issue I have found is that while I was doing all these updates, I came across titanium screws for the manifold and the turbo mount. Like anyone with external genitalia, I thought, "Titanium bolts! Heck-to-the-yeah!" Why? it's not like saving .0003lbs is going to give me a better quarter miles, but the idea behind it is that they don't rust and will be easier to remove. This is true.

However, while checking my ICP I saw the bolt head, and while marveling at its shinny glory, I realized I could count three threads. It had walked out under the little time I have tested and drove it. "Holy crap!" I thought, thinking I forgot to tighten it down. Then remembering the process I went through to get that y pipe and exhaust pipe on that turbo, I knew I tightened it down. Maybe not to the correct torque, but it was definitely tightened enough. Around 30ftlb. That got me thinking about the manifold bolts to the block. So, back under the car.

I discovered one loose to the touch manifold bolt on the passenger side. These, I certainly did tighten to torque settings with the torque wrench. This was an easy one to reach to, bottom row next to the last...so you know it was done. I checked everyone I could reach with the wrench and couldn't check three. All the others were tight with two that could use a little more love torque. So, I tightened those up and rechecked most on the driver's side. They seemed fine, but I obviously can't get the torque wrench up in there so, it is really hand tight. This does affect my confidence in the titanium bolts. I am going to do some research on these and see if there is a step I'm missing, like loctite or something (I did not use locktite, seemed counter intuitive). Maybe I was supposed to. I'll find out.

Being down to only a few codes (5, really seven, but I am not counting the fan and fan speed as that has been replaced), I'm at five down from 19. During the test drive I did finally have throttle response and got to over 50mph. Meaning, I'm out of limp mode. Once I get that ICP pigtail in, I am hoping that corrects the rough idle, cold start crank time, and gets me running. I still have the 2wd solenoid issue code but the 4wd code cleared. maybe running it a little will help clear that code. Then the maybe that will clear the U codes as well with the signal returning to the PCM. After all that, I'll have to figure out what is up with the SIX GUN. No indicator lights on the module.

Thank you for all the input and help. I lean heavy on the ORG and this website is the only reason why I had the modicum of confidence require to start such a task. Thank you.
 

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E04 Ford X EB 6.0 SixGun w/ M Exhaust, Clown, Monster Exhaust, BPD FICM & 7.3 Fanmod, CAI, 4X4
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
You're definitely getting there! Kudos to you on your perseverance!

-jokester
Thank you. My wife may not openly share this sentiment, but she admires it. It is hard. We have been taken advantage of by really, six shops. This was long past due. There are not a lot of diesel techs around here, though, several claim that they are. I just got in touch with one from north of here who is stepping back in the game after five years working for DOT. He said I was real close and offered to come by next week and give it a once over. Thank God! I just have few resources around here and honestly, the POWERSTROKE.org community is why I decided to do this on my own. Not really on my own as I have leaned heavily on past threads. This, the guys at BPD and the technical support guys at Banks have been incredible. I am blessed. Hopefully soon I can put that 100 mile test on it and not use my free tow!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well, I’m calling it. I know when I’m whipped and I’m whipped. I had someone over tonight that knows a lot more than I do and they have done a couple of rebuilds and mine is extremely fickle.
I know it’s going to be something simple. Maybe three something simples, but I can’t find it, neither can he. I can’t figure out why at 1,800 rpms under load this thing starts chugging. Sluggish throttle, electrical issues, etc. I have checked every connection, every sensor, I replaced the icp, batteries, vgt, ebp, checked the line of the ebp, the ipr, the vgt connector, the ipr connector, I have tracked the main wire harness and found nothing. Checked every plug and connector at the pcm, tightened and checked every bolt on the exhaust and the turbo...no leaks.
From what I can gather, the back pressure builds and it is actually blowing out the intake at 1,800rpms under load. It takes a while to get there, but once it does, it is repetitive. The tuner isn’t working for some dang reason, so we bypassed that wondering if it would pass through the signals: nothing. Plugged it back in same thing. I have a nearly five ton paper weight.
mince it’s warm it idles fine, making it Al Gore’s perfect global warming machine.
Got a rental car and going to have it towed tomorrow to yet another shop and see how it goes.
I tried and I am heartbroken I couldn’t see it through. Mechanically it seems to run great. I think it is electrical and I am dumb mechanically, but electrically, I am even more dumberer.
Went from 6 codes last night to 25 tonight. All the same stuff but now it seems to be in full bloom. Yet, no check engine light. Not in tow/haul mode, not in limp mode either.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
She gets towed in an hour or so. I’m looking around and man, at first I ran a super clean, well organized garage/shop. Tools went where they belonged, trash in the trash can, chemicals went where chemicals go, etc.
Once the build was “complete” and I got on trouble codes, organization of the shop went to hell in a hand basket. Looked it over and I’m just embarrassed. I’ll be doing my clean up and clean out getting ready for my next build: 2016 Power Wheels Four Wheeler with Power Boost and Wagon. I pray that thing does not have an EGR, VGT, ICP, PCM, EBP, ABS, MAP, MAF, ECU, VSS, FICM, OHTC, TBC...we only need a couple more letters and we have the whole dang alphabet!
Anyway, called the shop this morning and the guy was on top of it. He said he will put time on it today. I get his Friday afternoon! I made sure to tell him not to rush and enjoy the work. I will update the finds and issues as they come in. I hope it is more decisive than 2020 election results!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Pleasantly pleased with the new shop. The communication is excellent. His trouble shooting is top notch. He called me for the full debrief before he started (I could go with the X due to work/kids). He called me with more questions. Then, he called me excited... sid he find it already? No. He’s excited because it’s different and difficult.
After an afternoon on it, he is focusing on a compound MAF MAP and PCM issue (I’m guessing from setting for six months) causing the turbo issues.
Like me & the two guys who tried to help, he thinks it’s a combo and nothing is presenting 100% bad. My hopes are to get it back next week...unless he takes the turbo off, then we might add one more thing to it. Not sure.
For now, this is the saddest picture I can post.
 

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