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Discussion Starter #1
So I just got back from a camping trip towing my toyhauler and experienced a new/strange excessive boost issue.

Towing my 10k toyhauler today it ran great for the first 40 miles. At around 40 miles I stopped to help a friend with a blown trailer tire and let the engine idle for roughly 30 minutes. After taking back off again it ran good for about 20 minutes until while pulling a grade I blew the boot at the turbo off. After stopping and putting it back on and tightening everything down I experienced an excessive boost issue where at 1/4 throttle the VGT command was 55% and I was making 24 lbs of boost. If I tried to go over 30-40% throttle it would peg the boost gauge at 28 psi and likely over that, and the VGT command was still 55%.

The whole ride home I had to baby the throttle and the VGT % would stay at 55% and I would make 24 psi of boost at 2,100 RPM. Anymore throttle and the VGT command stayed at 55% but the boost would approach 28 psi and blow the boot off. At stoplights the VGT command would go to 75%.

I finally got home, but any hill would result in me doing about 10 mph and accelerating was a bear.

I cleaned the turbo about 2,000 miles ago when I did the HPOP, IPR, and ICP sensors. Does this sound like a stuck turbo condition or potentially a bad turbo solenoid valve?

Any ideas would be appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Forgot to add this is a 2003 that is bone stock. It has the flash that removed the EBP sensor and went to the inferred calculation. No CEL were thrown either.
 

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Don’t think anything is wrong with your turbo. I suspect the boot that blew off needs to be cleaned, secured with hairspray, or replaced. Blown boots are quite common. The boot should stay secure as much as a stock turbo will put out, 31 PSI or so.😣
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Don’t think anything is wrong with your turbo. I suspect the boot that blew off needs to be cleaned, secured with hairspray, or replaced. Blown boots are quite common. The boot should stay secure as much as a stock turbo will put out, 31 PSI or so.


I agree with the suggestion to clean the boot they were definitely oily. My concern is that it has never made that kind of boost at such light throttle, and that fact that it never moved from the 55% command was odd. I had not power as well at times even though I had 25 lbs of boost. I could barely get the trailer over 20 on flat ground at one point. At 40-50% throttle it was definitely getting over 31 psi, it had the boost gauge pegged (on my edge which only goes to 28 psi).

This starting happening on the way home, so it had already towed the trailer 100 miles to the campsite. It was on the way home where it started acting up and had no power.
 

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Do you have anything to pull codes with. Something thorough, like ForScan Lite on a smartphone, is recommended?

Do you still have a functional EGR system?

Any black smoke w/ the issue?

What are your MAP and Baro readings at KOEO?
 
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Discussion Starter #6
Do you have anything to pull codes with. Something thorough, like ForScan Lite on a smartphone, is recommended?



Do you still have a functional EGR system?



Any black smoke w/ the issue?



What are your MAP and Baro readings at KOEO?


I only have insight for now, but will have the obd module to run forscan today. I did look at the codes I could see and only saw P132b which doesn’t help much.

Yes, the EGR system is still functional.

No black smoke at all.

MAP is 13 and Baro was 13.8 KOEO.
 

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P132B is a code related to the calibration from the recall 06E17 (part of the Inferred EBP strategy). It means that there is a problem with the VGT system. P132B is a fault code that is set if the required boost levels are not achieved during a learn cycle or at specific speed fuel demand points.

This code indicates that there are issues with the turbocharger, MAF sensor, MAP sensor/hose, IAT2 sensor, intake leaks, or exhaust leaks, etc. Frequently it is a sticking turbo issue. This code can also throw a P0401 EGR code. (see video below at 1:55)

On vehicles built before Sept 29, 2003 (PCM ignores EBP sensor input and infers the value from the MAP and MAF sensors). On these vehicles, the MAF is used for fuel correction. The PCM will learn MAP and MAF and then learn the VGT action by cycling the VGT duty cycle in steps from 85% to 0%, and then back up, again in steps. It will learn the MAP and MAF action during this process. It takes 6 cycles to learn the VGT. P132b will be set if the PCM determines that there is something wrong with what it learned for MAP and MAF as it relates to VGT duty cycle.

edit - sorry the video link is no longer valid. I will try to see if I can find another link.

P132b is a tough nut to crack sometimes!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks Bismic. The video link isn’t working, any chance you could try it again. It sounds like cleaning the EGR, MAF, and the IAT and pressure sensors will be a good start. I haven’t cleaned the EGR in at least a couple of years, it might ease an intermittent rough idle as well.

I have had the p132b code a couple of times in the past and it’s always cleared itself up. If I’m bored I may split the turbo and clean it while I’m at it. I know VGT solenoid valves rarely fail, but could a weak/lazy solenoid cause issues?
 

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I know VGT solenoid valves rarely fail, but could a weak/lazy solenoid cause issues?
VGT solenoids do fail. Often times there is buildup on the unison ring that can become too much for the VGT solenoid to overcome. I've seen it happen on trucks that do a lot of daily driving/highway driving and do not get to WOT very often.

I would recommend splitting the turbo and cleaning up/replacing the unison ring as well as cleaning the MAF sensor. KC Turbos sells replacement unison rings (here is the link), which I would recommend using. Not sure how many miles are on the truck, but the solenoid slowly creates a groove in the unison ring that reduces the travel/spin of the ring over time. Amazon sells an OEM gasket kit for the project as well (here is the link). If you feel like a rebuild of the turbo, I would recommend KC Turbos' kit (here is the link).

I'm not saying this is 100% the cause of your issue, but I believe it is most likely the culprit. At the end of the day, it is a small amount of money and work to ensure it isn't the issue. I would also HIGHLY RECOMMEND cleaning the EBP sensor and tube while you are doing this job. I had to chase down a clogged EBP sensor a month or so ago and it was causing some strange VGT percentages and turbo performance.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
VGT solenoids do fail. Often times there is buildup on the unison ring that can become too much for the VGT solenoid to overcome. I've seen it happen on trucks that do a lot of daily driving/highway driving and do not get to WOT very often.

I would recommend splitting the turbo and cleaning up/replacing the unison ring as well as cleaning the MAF sensor. KC Turbos sells replacement unison rings (here is the link), which I would recommend using. Not sure how many miles are on the truck, but the solenoid slowly creates a groove in the unison ring that reduces the travel/spin of the ring over time. Amazon sells an OEM gasket kit for the project as well (here is the link). If you feel like a rebuild of the turbo, I would recommend KC Turbos' kit (here is the link).

I'm not saying this is 100% the cause of your issue, but I believe it is most likely the culprit. At the end of the day, it is a small amount of money and work to ensure it isn't the issue. I would also HIGHLY RECOMMEND cleaning the EBP sensor and tube while you are doing this job. I had to chase down a clogged EBP sensor a month or so ago and it was causing some strange VGT percentages and turbo performance.
Thanks for the information Chris. I split the turbo about 2k miles ago and the unison ring looked good, no grooves, but I'll split it again for piece of mind. A new VGT solenoid is about $200 and anew reman turbo which I presume has a new VGT solenoid and unison ring is $700. At what point is it worth replacing the whole thing?

I'll check out the KC turbo stuff out for sure though. And the 2003's didn't use the EBP sensor since the re-flash right? They use an inferred calculation?
 

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Thanks for the information Chris. I split the turbo about 2k miles ago and the unison ring looked good, no grooves, but I'll split it again for piece of mind. A new VGT solenoid is about $200 and anew reman turbo which I presume has a new VGT solenoid and unison ring is $700. At what point is it worth replacing the whole thing?

I'll check out the KC turbo stuff out for sure though. And the 2003's didn't use the EBP sensor since the re-flash right? They use an inferred calculation?
I would rebuild a known good working turbo that came with the truck before buying a reman OEM turbo, but that's just me. I ended up replacing mine entirely for performance, but there were plenty of used ones on Craigslist for $150-300 in my area at the time of the swap.

Again, this is just my opinion.

As far as the EBP sensor, I can't comment on it being disabled with a flash, but the 03-04 trucks used a different part number than the later trucks. The sensor was a different size, had different threads and the connection pipe was also different. I hope someone with an early truck, or with more experience with them, can chime in regarding the EBP sensor and flash.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I would rebuild a known good working turbo that came with the truck before buying a reman OEM turbo, but that's just me. I ended up replacing mine entirely for performance, but there were plenty of used ones on Craigslist for $150-300 in my area at the time of the swap.



Again, this is just my opinion.



As far as the EBP sensor, I can't comment on it being disabled with a flash, but the 03-04 trucks used a different part number than the later trucks. The sensor was a different size, had different threads and the connection pipe was also different. I hope someone with an early truck, or with more experience with them, can chime in regarding the EBP sensor and flash.
Thanks Chris, this is what the turbo looked like before cleaning last time. There was definitely some putting on the ring and the housing. I think a new unison ring would be good, but what about the pitting on the housing? Will it cause any issues? I would rather fix everything right than have issues, being on the side of the road with a trailer and the family is not an enjoyable experience.

 

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Honestly, that turbo looks pretty haggard in those photos. Also, you can see that the unison ring does actually have a groove worn in, as it has the classic lima bean shape to it.

When you cleaned the turbo, what did you use and what exactly did you clean? DieselTechRon (RIP) has a good video explaining the process if you haven't already had an opportunity to check it out.
.

Looking at the condition of that turbo, personally, I would purchase a new or reman turbo with a new VGT solenoid and unison ring. Again, I am not saying 100% that it will solve the problem, but it certainly would help. Also, did you check the piggyback wiring connection on the VGT solenoid? I have hear of those coming loose and/or coming apart.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Once I found those pictures, I remembered how rough it looked. I used the dieseltechron (i use most of his videos because of how well they were made) method to clean it. The pigtail is brand new as I replaced it when I cleaned the turbo because it was chewed up and missing the clips, so I think that is good.

Since we're talking about potentially replacing the turbo, does it make sense to consider the powermax or the KC stage 1.5? I don't need a drag truck, just something that is reliable and good for towing. I'm not studded (yet, I would rather avoid that until I have a problem) and plan on sticking with stock injectors and no crazy tunes.
 

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I use a KC Turbos stage 1 with all of the mods in my signature and it has worked perfectly. If I decide to get bigger injectors down the road, it can handle it or I can upgrade to a larger one at that time. Honestly, reaching out to Charlie at KC would be a good idea. They are really good people over there and are always willing to help.
 

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In talking about turbos there is no better place to go than KC turbo. I had there Stage 2 on my old 6.0 and loved it. I would highly recommend getting the Stage 1 or 1.5 if you are looking at a new one anyway. His will out perform any same stage Powermax. Just hope you like the whistle.
 

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In talking about turbos there is no better place to go than KC turbo. I had there Stage 2 on my old 6.0 and loved it. I would highly recommend getting the Stage 1 or 1.5 if you are looking at a new one anyway. His will out perform any same stage Powermax. Just hope you like the whistle.


I like a little whistle, but I’ve heard the powermax’s and screw that. Hoping that the KC will be quieter.
 

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I like a little whistle, but I’ve heard the powermax’s and screw that. Hoping that the KC will be quieter.
That's why I went with the stage 1 with the 13 blade instead of the 10 blade. Faster spool and no crazy whistle. What's nice is with my turbo back exhaust, you get a nice whistle/exhaust note when you are all over it but it isn't loud when you're just driving.
 
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