Exact HP Gains

farmerrich said:

I’ve been waiting for you to reply to this post because I have a lot of questions for you but I didn’t want to call on the weekend so I’ll ask them here for others to see if they are wondering the same thing. Obviously I’m going with the stock injectors. If I upgrade to a 70 psi fuel spring, upgrade to the bigger banjo bolts, and install a fuel crossover, would that be enough fuel to warrant a stock plus KC? And another question I have is, for only $100 more, why would one prefer the stock plus over the 63/68 if both can be sustained with stock injectors? I plan going 6637 intake, hydra with Jellibuilt custom tunes not canned, 4” MBRP turbo back w/muffler delete, and the other thing I’m trying to decide on is what to do with the turbo. I’m going with the bigger banjos and the 70 psi spring for sure. I thought about going with the Gillett diesel spring which is rated for 90-110 which usually reads around 95, but I’m not sure if that’s too high or not. I had one on my 2000 that I installed, ran it for about a week and then blew the steel return line from the back of the passenger side head to the fuel bowl. Had to change that in the rain, luckily the closest Ford dealer had one in stock. Couldn’t believe that. At the time the truck had around 260k so I’m not sure if it was just from it being old, because it blew right where the clamp holds it, or if it was the spring that made it blow. Or perhaps a combination of both. A whole other list of mods to go with these as well. I know the up pipes are done for and I’m not really a fan of just doing a compressor wheel and calling it good because this turbo has 120k on it and I have the funds to either build it up or replace with bigger. I don’t necessarily have the funds for injectors at the moment because other maintenance items take precedence over the new injectors I have, but I do plan to upgrade in the future. What would you do? Looking for 300 maybe 325 hp. Comparable to a stock 6.0. I don’t want to be forced into replacing the trans if I blow it with too high of hp before I’m ready to upgrade the trans. I’ll probably wait to do the trans right before the injectors since that’ll add the most hp. Once I’m ready to do the trans, I’ll be looking for 400-450. I’m thinking if I do the trans and injectors next year, it would be a better decision to go ahead with a bigger turbo now. Only question is, .84 or 1.00. I’m not going to take your advice lightly. I really appreciate everyone reading and also replying!

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You don't need any fuel pressure spring mod. That is a 6.0 thing. Monitor your fuel pressure to see what you actually have. Idea pressure for a 7.3 is between 55-65. Anything more is harder on the pump, and can cause the fuel bowl to crack.

Oversized banjo bolts are an absolute waste money. We have many customer trucks into the 700+HP range with factory banjo bolts. Best kit for your needs is our bowl retain fuel kit. You'll have to replace your fuel lines eventually anyway as the factory hold downs will rub a hole in them.


KC stock plus turbo is a new turbo with their balanced assembly installed. Benefit is it's under warranty, and if you're not comfortable rebuilding your stock turbo. Perfect charger for stock injectors. The 63/68 will be slightly laggy compared to the stock plus on stock injectors due to the wheels being bigger.


Be careful on which 6637 you buy. They are NOT all the same, and are not cleanable like the AFE version, so in the long run, you'll end up paying more money for filters.


With just a Hydra, you will be in the 325hp range like a stock 6.0L is. Brian does all the custom tuning for our customers, but you don't "need" his tuning to reach your HP. The Hydra comes with tuning for your truck if you want to save some money.


When you decide on the larger injectors next year, you'll have to buy another set of tunes, so that's something to think about.


As for injectors, 160/30 are very popular and will get you around 400-450hp. If you decide on these injectors next year, then go with the 63/73 .84AR housing.


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I know the blue spring mod is for the 6.0. I’m fluent in both motors. I’m talking about the updated springs from riffraff. They offer the 55, ,60, and 70 psi springs all together in a package. That’s why I was asking about that. I bet the old spring is worn out. However, I didn’t realize the banjo bolts were a waste of time, but it seems like they could be for sure. I appreciate that info.

I saw the 4 line feed Kit and that’s in the future for reliability and longevity, not competition. It looks like a really nice kit. But I’m into that for the fuel lines like you say. I’ve never been stranded by a Powerstroke and I’m not about to start now.

I usually buy the Napa Gold 6637 but I like the filter on your website that I saw mentioned in a thread from a few years ago so I’ll probably use it instead. The Napa filters are excellent, easily available, and I trust all Napa parts because I’ve used them for years. Plus my hometown Napa offers me deals on the filters if I buy a couple at a time. I usually only use two a year and they come on sale in April. I just put “6637 intake” so everyone knows what I’m talking about. I don’t use cleanable filters. I’ll never be on board with that. I never feel like you ever get it truly clean like a new filter is. I don’t like the idea of the oil soaked filters because I drive too many red dirt roads that are mixed with clay. That causes those filters to either leak or clog too fast.

I didn’t realize the hydra would add so much, but if I go with the stock plus would you then recommend custom tuning? I do believe I have PMR in my truck, and I know I’m not in the twilight zone for the motor yet, but I believe that custom tuning can keep the motor safe which is the main reason I’m interested in the custom tuning.

When I go to the larger injectors I’m going to have to re-tune anyways because I’ll upgrade the trans at the same time so it won’t make a difference. Even if I don’t go with the larger injectors, when I do the trans I’ll re-tune.

160/30 is what I’ve decided on as of now for next year’s upgrade. But let me ask you this, have you heard of anyone running too large of injectors that caused the cylinders to wash down? I’ve always wondered about that, and that’s the main reason I’m not going 180/30. That and I’m not looking to do a forged rod swap.

Thank you so much Corey. I appreciate your replies.

P.S. - Not many vendors such as yourself are for the saving money aspect of the game. These parts are awfully expensive and I can tell you do care about people wasting their money. Example, the banjo bolts. Marked that off the list and you just earned yourself a lot of business.

Alright so I’m working on the truck tonight and for some reason I can’t get it to start. My IPR percentage comes up to 63% during cranking, ICP reads around 2200-2500. I have rpm reading in my CTS2. The tach on the dash moves, but very little. I changed the fuel filter. I checked oil level, it’s good. After 5 unsuccessful attempts, I checked the level again and it was 2 quarts low. I added oil. This tells me that the HPOP reservoir is receiving the oil. Fuel pump is operational and I have fuel coming into the bowl. Battery voltage 14. Block heater plugged in and operational EOT at 104°. ICP drops to around 350 after cranking and slowly falls to 50. IPR off key on is 14.8%. Pulled codes and I only had three. P1670, P0603, and P1139. Cleared and checked, no codes. Cranked again, checked codes. Only one that came back was the P1670, no electronic feedback detected. This sounds like it could possibly be my issue. I tried to use my Launch 123X on it, but it wouldn’t pull up the PCM and gave me a service engine soon light. So obviously I’ll have to have auto enginuity to read anything major. RPM shows 140-160 while cranking. I feel this isn’t fast enough. However I did see the ICP get up to 3500 when IPR was around 60%. Those readings are good. After it peaks, it drops down to 2200 psi and 35% IPR. Injector pulse width is around 2.92. Brand new batteries, have the battery charger and another truck with cables on it. Cranks over all day long, just won’t fire. The IDM was replaced back in 2012 or so, so I’m thinking I’ll have to check wiring. I used my relay buddy to test both IDM and PCM relays, both test good. Anyone have any ideas in what direction to go?