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Exact HP Gains

4825 Views 33 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  j_b623
Hello all. I’ve been doing hours and hours of research and I can’t find an exact answer to mg questions, so I figured I’d post it up and see what you all think. First of all, I’ve got a project truck. 2001 F-250 7.3 Automatic Extended cab short bed. After I’m done with the reliability and drivability issued, I’m going to start with performance upgrades. Now with this truck being a 2001, it’s got the PMR. I’ve heard these are good to 400 hp? Does this sound correct? Also, I assume this value is measured at the flywheel? Second, I’m going to do heavy towing. I’m looking to do Stage 1 180cc single shots from full force diesel. Maybe a T500 or adrenaline. Probably a PowerMax from Garret. Along with all this the obvious intake, exhaust, gauges. And finally. A custom tune. I’m planning to go with my SCT 7015 X4 to program with, but I don’t know whose tunes would fit my truck the best assuming I go with the build I mentioned earlier. With these upgrades, what horsepower would I be looking at? Would I be in danger of blowing the rods? Also, the transmission is freshly rebuilt, but when it goes I’ll either do a BTS or ZF6 swap when the time comes so I’m not worried about that much. I’m not planning to drag race this truck. I’ll be using it as a DD, heavy hauler, and a truck I can use for fun with the wife. I’m looking for excellent power, but I’m not looking to do a rebuild in the near future. Thanks for any comments.
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I have everything you are looking for on the shelf except for the transmission. KC balanced assembly, injectors, Hydra chip with Jelibuilt tuning, up pipes, intake, exhaust, etc.

We do this sorta thing every day.

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I’ve been waiting for you to reply to this post because I have a lot of questions for you but I didn’t want to call on the weekend so I’ll ask them here for others to see if they are wondering the same thing. Obviously I’m going with the stock injectors. If I upgrade to a 70 psi fuel spring, upgrade to the bigger banjo bolts, and install a fuel crossover, would that be enough fuel to warrant a stock plus KC? And another question I have is, for only $100 more, why would one prefer the stock plus over the 63/68 if both can be sustained with stock injectors? I plan going 6637 intake, hydra with Jellibuilt custom tunes not canned, 4” MBRP turbo back w/muffler delete, and the other thing I’m trying to decide on is what to do with the turbo. I’m going with the bigger banjos and the 70 psi spring for sure. I thought about going with the Gillett diesel spring which is rated for 90-110 which usually reads around 95, but I’m not sure if that’s too high or not. I had one on my 2000 that I installed, ran it for about a week and then blew the steel return line from the back of the passenger side head to the fuel bowl. Had to change that in the rain, luckily the closest Ford dealer had one in stock. Couldn’t believe that. At the time the truck had around 260k so I’m not sure if it was just from it being old, because it blew right where the clamp holds it, or if it was the spring that made it blow. Or perhaps a combination of both. A whole other list of mods to go with these as well. I know the up pipes are done for and I’m not really a fan of just doing a compressor wheel and calling it good because this turbo has 120k on it and I have the funds to either build it up or replace with bigger. I don’t necessarily have the funds for injectors at the moment because other maintenance items take precedence over the new injectors I have, but I do plan to upgrade in the future. What would you do? Looking for 300 maybe 325 hp. Comparable to a stock 6.0. I don’t want to be forced into replacing the trans if I blow it with too high of hp before I’m ready to upgrade the trans. I’ll probably wait to do the trans right before the injectors since that’ll add the most hp. Once I’m ready to do the trans, I’ll be looking for 400-450. I’m thinking if I do the trans and injectors next year, it would be a better decision to go ahead with a bigger turbo now. Only question is, .84 or 1.00. I’m not going to take your advice lightly. I really appreciate everyone reading and also replying!
You don't need any fuel pressure spring mod. That is a 6.0 thing. Monitor your fuel pressure to see what you actually have. Idea pressure for a 7.3 is between 55-65. Anything more is harder on the pump, and can cause the fuel bowl to crack.

Oversized banjo bolts are an absolute waste money. We have many customer trucks into the 700+HP range with factory banjo bolts. Best kit for your needs is our bowl retain fuel kit. You'll have to replace your fuel lines eventually anyway as the factory hold downs will rub a hole in them.

KC stock plus turbo is a new turbo with their balanced assembly installed. Benefit is it's under warranty, and if you're not comfortable rebuilding your stock turbo. Perfect charger for stock injectors. The 63/68 will be slightly laggy compared to the stock plus on stock injectors due to the wheels being bigger.

Be careful on which 6637 you buy. They are NOT all the same, and are not cleanable like the AFE version, so in the long run, you'll end up paying more money for filters.

With just a Hydra, you will be in the 325hp range like a stock 6.0L is. Brian does all the custom tuning for our customers, but you don't "need" his tuning to reach your HP. The Hydra comes with tuning for your truck if you want to save some money.

When you decide on the larger injectors next year, you'll have to buy another set of tunes, so that's something to think about.

As for injectors, 160/30 are very popular and will get you around 400-450hp. If you decide on these injectors next year, then go with the 63/73 .84AR housing.

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160/30 is what I’ve decided on as of now for next year’s upgrade. But let me ask you this, have you heard of anyone running too large of injectors that caused the cylinders to wash down? I’ve always wondered about that, and that’s the main reason I’m not going 180/30. That and I’m not looking to do a forged rod swap.

Thank you so much Corey. I appreciate your replies.

P.S. - Not many vendors such as yourself are for the saving money aspect of the game. These parts are awfully expensive and I can tell you do care about people wasting their money. Example, the banjo bolts. Marked that off the list and you just earned yourself a lot of business.
It's one of the biggest things that pi**es me off is when a customer sends me a quote from our competitors and I see a stupid amount of unless parts that add no benefit to the customer's rig.

Larger injectors will not "wash down" the cylinders as long as they are quality built injectors and you have good tuning.

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I run the 180/30 with no issues, I have the kcturbos tow package with supporting mods and currently dyno 365/652

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I think I know you from Instagram. Firetruck mechanic right??

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