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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys,

I spoke with a local shop about getting one of these units installed. Here is the reply I got when i asked about putting one in my truck along with the install.

"Good Day Doonz my name is **** with **** We do not do the blowers with the Hydronic 5 as there have been issues with the damper door . however most customers don’t want them as you get heat right away when you get in the truck and turn blowers on cab gets warm in no time."

Does anyone know why or what the problem is with the damper and why they wouldn't do it?
 

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I seem to recall you're from AB. I looked into putting an Espar or Webasto into my truck and after talking with shops that sold both as well as the Ford dealership, I was more or less told to save my money since it doesn't get nearly cold enough in the city to utilize either system. They said that the PTC supplemental heater option I have on my truck decreases the time it takes for the truck to heat up already. They also said that since I have access to electricity for the block heater, overnight, and since the batteries and glow plugs are in good/normal operating condition, there would be no problem with the truck turning over in -40*C or colder temperatures even if I let it sit a couple days. If you're really concerned, I'd look into an oil pan blanket/heater. Just some food for thought before you drop a few grand on one. Granted, I do have an Espar in the work truck/van but the Dodge Sprinter didn't come with a block heater so an Espar was necessary/a standard factory feature on it.
 

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I seem to recall you're from AB. I looked into putting an Espar or Webasto into my truck and after talking with shops that sold both as well as the Ford dealership, I was more or less told to save my money since it doesn't get nearly cold enough in the city to utilize either system. They said that the PTC supplemental heater option I have on my truck decreases the time it takes for the truck to heat up already. They also said that since I have access to electricity for the block heater, overnight, and since the batteries and glow plugs are in good/normal operating condition, there would be no problem with the truck turning over in -40*C or colder temperatures even if I let it sit a couple days. If you're really concerned, I'd look into an oil pan blanket/heater. Just some food for thought before you drop a few grand on one. Granted, I do have an Espar in the work truck/van but the Dodge Sprinter didn't come with a block heater so an Espar was necessary/a standard factory feature on it.
Yeah. I work up around the FMM area and as well as I'll be heading to zama then onto yellowknife this winter season....

Im going to FREEEEEEZZZZEEEEE. Ive had trouble starting my gas job at around the -40 mark so i was thinking in conjunction with talking with the other guys in the area and this would be the best solution. Keep the motor warm and the inside of the truck hot. And plug ins aren't available.

I was just more confused about the whole not tying it into the blower part...
 

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The reason for not installing the blower/fan is because most people value a warm engine over a warm cab. With the blower, you're channeling/splitting warm air between the engine and cab. The cab is essentially warmed first and then any extra warm air is circulated to the engine. If you don't run the blower, 100% of the warm air is in the engine compartment. Not sure where you called but I get my Espar serviced/tuned for winter by Polar Mobility. They have branches in Calgary, Edmonton, and Red Deer.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The reason for not installing the blower/fan is because most people value a warm engine over a warm cab. With the blower, you're channeling/splitting warm air between the engine and cab. The cab is essentially warmed first and then any extra warm air is circulated to the engine. If you don't run the blower, 100% of the warm air is in the engine compartment. Not sure where you called but I get my Espar serviced/tuned for winter by Polar Mobility. They have branches in Calgary, Edmonton, and Red Deer.
Heh that's who I talked to.....
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So after talking with a bunch of installation places I have figured ford spent too much time turning the Climate controls into Fort Knox,

Gawd I wish i had done more research prior to buying this truck.
 

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I can't speak for the -40 stuff. But I spent the winter in the -25 and never had a problem. My truck was outside at night, not plugged in. When I would hear my neighbor out trying to start his truck, I would hit the remote start button on mine and hear it immediately start. Mine was on the default setting where it ran for 5 minutes and turned off. If I had not walked out the door in that 5 minutes, I would hit the remote a second time.

Usually when I got out side, The windshield was melted off and the cab was starting to warm up. It takes a while to warm up all the cab after a long cold soak. And I can say that even with some 30 minute hiway drives. The truck never really came up to full operating temp during the drive. When I pulled into the parking lot, it would kick up into fast idle to continue trying to warm up. 65 mph on the hiway with no load is only 450° F EGT temps. Put a trailer behind it, climb some grades or faster acceleration and you will get the EGTs up around 700-800° and it would warm up faster.


But it never had trouble starting at -25°F. It was never plugged in, My truck bought in Utah, doesn't even have the block warmer, I did run synthetic oil last winter and I did use Opti-Lube XPD winter formula fuel additve for the anti gel. I did not cover the radiator. I do have the rapid heat option on mine, that 1500watt elements doesn't over come the cold soak very fast, but it does work on the frosted windshield.
 

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I have been debating this as well and still thinking about going forward on it. I know another guy with it on his 6.0L and he loves it in the winter.
 

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I've got a used Espar D5wsc for sale if there's anyone interested
 

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Tempting.... did you install/remove yourself?
 

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The unit was installed by Polar Mobility in Edmonton a couple years ago. Only used it for one winter on my 2006 and then sold the truck so I removed it. The only things it needs is new heater hose/tee s and new fuel pickup tube and fuel line. PM me for more details. Don't wanna clutter this thread
 

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I can't speak for the -40 stuff. But I spent the winter in the -25 and never had a problem. My truck was outside at night, not plugged in. When I would hear my neighbor out trying to start his truck, I would hit the remote start button on mine and hear it immediately start. Mine was on the default setting where it ran for 5 minutes and turned off. If I had not walked out the door in that 5 minutes, I would hit the remote a second time.

Usually when I got out side, The windshield was melted off and the cab was starting to warm up. It takes a while to warm up all the cab after a long cold soak. And I can say that even with some 30 minute hiway drives. The truck never really came up to full operating temp during the drive. When I pulled into the parking lot, it would kick up into fast idle to continue trying to warm up. 65 mph on the hiway with no load is only 450° F EGT temps. Put a trailer behind it, climb some grades or faster acceleration and you will get the EGTs up around 700-800° and it would warm up faster.


But it never had trouble starting at -25°F. It was never plugged in, My truck bought in Utah, doesn't even have the block warmer, I did run synthetic oil last winter and I did use Opti-Lube XPD winter formula fuel additve for the anti gel. I did not cover the radiator. I do have the rapid heat option on mine, that 1500watt elements doesn't over come the cold soak very fast, but it does work on the frosted windshield.
The rapid heat is nice but I'll never trade my espar for anything. When my truck is outside for a couple days without a plug in and it's -40 outside there's nothing better than getting in, starting it, and having the coolant gauge jump up to warm. On the super cold days without an espar just plugging along lease roads it would literally never warm up.

I've never had an issue with any properly maintained diesel starting (even some Ford 6.9 IDI's back on the farm), but hearing the whistle of the espar and knowing you're starting an engine where the coolant is warm and the oil has a bit of heat into it is nice.
 

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hearing the whistle of the espar and knowing you're starting an engine where the coolant is warm and the oil has a bit of heat into it is nice.
That's what I am after, when I start my truck I normally end up sitting in traffic for 45mins-1hr creeping along, would rather do it on a truck already semi-warm so I am not causing more wear than required.

Alberta, I will let you know shortly :)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hello Everyone,

No I didn't forget about this.

So I just had a nice email exchange with Espar and getting down to the nuts and bolts of it. Basically because of the blower power draw the Hydronic 5 is not attached to the blower. If it was batteries would be low within two hours......

So onto the next step.

1) Is it possible to install a secondary blower that would draw less power?
2) Install a secondary loop with the low power blower
3) Install both a Hydronic 5 and Airtronic D2
4) Install just the Airtronic D2 and forgo keeping the motor toasty
5) Install the Hydronic 5 and just set the truck to start every so many hours


Any ideas?
 

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I would run the coolant heater, and not worry about anything else. The heater draws about 4.5 amps on its own, so I would imagine the air heater would be similar. And from what I've heard, it will throw some codes.

I had my espar installed for me (I'm not very good with electronics) and it's wired in with a timer and my remote starter. I hit the AUX button on my starter and it kicks on the Espar on for one hour. If I'm on site and don't have a plug available, I'll let it run for most of the hour and then remote start about 5 minutes before I leave. By the time I get to my truck the cabin is hot and the windows are completely defrosted. I basically only use the remote start to let the fan get going and start pumping heat.

I like the coolant heater because I can also keep it running to keep the coolant temp up if I'm loping around. Doing 5 km/hr and stopping frequently to inspect work means the engine doesn't get a chance to build up a lot of heat, but with the espar it will keep the engine and the cabin warm.
 

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I would run the coolant heater, and not worry about anything else. The heater draws about 4.5 amps on its own, so I would imagine the air heater would be similar. And from what I've heard, it will throw some codes.

I had my espar installed for me (I'm not very good with electronics) and it's wired in with a timer and my remote starter. I hit the AUX button on my starter and it kicks on the Espar on for one hour. If I'm on site and don't have a plug available, I'll let it run for most of the hour and then remote start about 5 minutes before I leave. By the time I get to my truck the cabin is hot and the windows are completely defrosted. I basically only use the remote start to let the fan get going and start pumping heat.

I like the coolant heater because I can also keep it running to keep the coolant temp up if I'm loping around. Doing 5 km/hr and stopping frequently to inspect work means the engine doesn't get a chance to build up a lot of heat, but with the espar it will keep the engine and the cabin warm.
Youve read my mind
 

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I see this is a old thread however its most likely the best source for info.

I am going to be hooking up a espar in my 2014 ford superduty.

Also I am going to be installing a coolant-driven cabinet heater in my service body (similar to your heater core). This cabinet heater is only going to be running while driving down the road or idling in sub zero temperatures.

Going to be operating in about -45 temps, powerstroke 6.7 F-550

I found some websites that say there are two different coolant systems on the superduty (low and hi temp) where is the best spot to tie into on the hi temp system. Because of the applications these two items are designed for they most likely will have to be plumbed differently.

I thought about creating a "parallel" coolant circuit with the factory heater core for the Aux cabinet heater however I don't want to lose any heating capacity for the factory heater core. I already own the cabinet heater and it has 5/8" porting. Because of a slight possibility of lighting flammable goods in the service body I cannot your standard household electric space heater.

Any info/ suggestions would be great.
 

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I see this is a old thread however its most likely the best source for info.

I am going to be hooking up a espar in my 2014 ford superduty.

Also I am going to be installing a coolant-driven cabinet heater in my service body (similar to your heater core). This cabinet heater is only going to be running while driving down the road or idling in sub zero temperatures.

Going to be operating in about -45 temps, powerstroke 6.7 F-550

I found some websites that say there are two different coolant systems on the superduty (low and hi temp) where is the best spot to tie into on the hi temp system. Because of the applications these two items are designed for they most likely will have to be plumbed differently.

I thought about creating a "parallel" coolant circuit with the factory heater core for the Aux cabinet heater however I don't want to lose any heating capacity for the factory heater core. I already own the cabinet heater and it has 5/8" porting. Because of a slight possibility of lighting flammable goods in the service body I cannot your standard household electric space heater.

Any info/ suggestions would be great.
I am planning the addition of Hydronic on a 6.7 350. How did you end up tying your heater into your primary cooling loop?

Philipp
 
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