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Discussion Starter #1
Got some goofy questions here. Ford does not recommend long periods of idling, but on the first start of the day, I can let the truck run for over 10 minutes and its still not up to normal operating temp. If I take off w/ the motor cold, the truck acts like it's in Tow/Haul mode. How long should I let the truck warm up before I drive it?

Also, how do I ID an odd or hard-start? Sometimes the truck lites off as the motor just barely rolls over, other times it make take over a second of cranking to fire up. Funny thing is, it doesn't matter if it's the first start of the day or the truck has been driven for over an hour. Am I looking at an injector service here, and by the way, what does that get me and/or cost me? The truck is an '06 and has 53,500 miles. I got it w/ almost 52K and feel the old owner serviced it pretty well. There's no smoke or rough idle, just cranking times differ and you never get the same situation twice.

And finally, my HUGE list of mods will consist of the non-cold air intake from K&N (the $269 one) and exchanging my Gas Hypertech for the diesel version. I can't give the damn gas programmer away. If I'm careful, and don't tow in full race mode (no more than 13K lbs) will this combo give me reliable and economical results?

As always, thanks in advance for your help, it's always helpful.
 

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As you've noticed these things don't really generate enough heat (or the cooling system is to efficient, depending on your perspective) to warm up at idle. Generally you should let it idle long enough to settle out and run smoothly and then drive it gently until it's up to temperature. That's actually the recommendation of just about every manufacture of motor vehicles from motorcycles to semi trucks. I personally will let it warm up for a couple of minutes if it's really cold out but that's for my benefit not the trucks.

It's not uncommon for these things to crank for a second or two before they'll fire off. Because of the oil fired injectors you need to have high pressure oil pressure which is dependent on low pressure oil before they'll start. I'm not sure why they sometimes light right off but I wouldn't sweat a couple of seconds of cranking.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thats got me feeling better. Now if I can get half the milage Hypertech promises I'll be real happy. I've heard some balk at the oiled filters on the 6.0L. Anyway opinions on that?
 

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I don't really give it any "warm up" time in the summer. I live in the boonies so I just ease down the driveway and run about 25-35 mph until I get to the highway. (about two miles) In the winter when there's ice on the windshield I start it up about 15 minutes before I have to leave so the ice is melted. I always keep the rpm's down until it reaches normal operating temp.
 

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I usually sit in the truck after I start it for a few minutes and put it in gear to start rolling once the oil temp gauge starts coming up some. The coolant temp really won't start coming up much until you drive it over idle, especially in the cold. I feel the oil temp is a better indication than the coolant. Even though those gauges are really just analog lights as far as the logic goes. Ever notice how they're alway's in the same exact spot? If the PCM is happy with the temps it puts the gauge in a happy spot.
 

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I've heard some balk at the oiled filters on the 6.0L. Anyway opinions on that?
I suspect that the poor reputation of oiled filters, K&N in particular are the result of a combination of improper oiling, a misunderstanding of air filtration and internet hype blowing stuff out of proportion.

I personally have had a K&N filter all of my vehicles for the last 20 years and a buddy of mine has run them on his tow truck fleet for years. Only two of my vehicle have been diesels and only my current truck is a Powerstroke but my buddy has gone through probably a dozen Powerstroke wreckers and 5 Duramax trucks. I've also used them on a slew of customer motors some of which are in dirt track cars. I have never seen an engine failure on any of these vehicles that was related to poor air filtration.

I have another friend who's a Ford Master Tech. He has seen some 6 liters with K&N filters showing some visible dust on the turbo impeller but he's never seen one with any engine or turbo damage related to that. He and I have both seen improperly oiled K&N filters and even a couple with no oil on them at all!

K&N has a ton of testing equipment and scientific data to back up their claims of filtration abilities. I recommend that you read the FAQ on their web site.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the help. I've put the K&N on and everything is happy. Started with a new tank of fuel, w/ Diesel Kleen, and we'll see on the mileage. I've never had any problems w/ these filters, but some rumors of the Mass Air acting pissy have emerged. But I think that's probably from improper oiling. Thanks for the help. Now for some research for my funny acting A/C fan when on high.
 

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my 06 does the same thing with the starting... its done it since i bought it in february, never has gotten worse or anything its just always done it dont matter if its warm or cold, first or last start of the day, sometimes it will crank a few secs (not excessive) then sometimes it seems the engine makes one revolution and its up and going??? im chalking it up to nature of the beast lol... ive seen wierder things
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well Hazard, you just described my '06 perfectly, so there's at least two 6.0's doing it. An earlier post mentioned he gets going once the oil temp gauge starts moving. Is that the tranny or engine oil temp? Mine comes up pretty quick. My commute never gets over 45 so it's easy to take it easy. I was thinking that was the tranny oil gauge and an idiots way to monitor how hard you're pushing your engine. The truck's all stock so I've got no way to monitor EGT's. Am I on the right track? I forget where I saw the data, but I have seen a graph of engine wear vs engine temp. The wear goes down exponentially as the temp rises above 160.
 
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