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Been having issues with my engine stalling out in the mornings. It will start up just fine everytime and I let it idle for 10 minutes or so in south Texas which should be fine. No issues idling in park, but once put into reverse it wants to stall. Also within the first 20 minutes of driving if I hit a stop light and I'm in drive it will stall out on me. Ive checked all my sensors and cleared all codes I have with no related issues. Driven with the ICP sensor off for awhile as well with no change. Recently changed the fuel filter too. Any tips or people relate to this issue?
 

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First off........oil oil oil!!! Intervals, last change, condition and leval?? Here are two issues, first is procedure and second is side affects of procedure. I know we want to baby and do things like let warm up in the morning.....but the risk of this Dailey rout even has catastrophic consequences for this engin........ why ally amblance packages and tow trucks utility platforms, all have what's called a high lidle setting. It's not necessarily for the alternator rpm and its supply demand in this configuration. Most if not all of the app store i mentioned come standard with the dual high output alternator systems for the added power demands. This set up is more than capable of providing the demand power nessesry for the application at idle so it's not really to provide more rpm from the motor to spin the alternator faster to supply the elec demand of the app. It's actualy primarily to keep the engin hot enough and loaded enough to avoid the catastrophic effects normal rpm idle has on it. These include carbon coke in up the engine and suffocating it. This engin is unique from most other diesle that are designed to just idle all day, or nite (think big rig at a truck stop idling away to provide heat and or,power to the driver while he rests. Because of its design it depends on the quality and quantity of the air, fuel, and oil it's getting to run at all. When u idle like that every morning in any weather but cold is worse because until it's under load and then up to temp(which happens faster) a lot of the fuel is unbernt and left to cake the cylinders. Once up to temp and under load then and only then is there a relatively compleat combustion thereby nothing residual after that stroke passes the exhaust cycle. This excess soot and carbon is either deposited into everything in the cylander like the injector tips.....where the piston rings act like a wet mop sweeping and collection this exesscarbon into your oil where it rapidly builds up and changes the composition and viscosity of the CC oil. If your gonna warm the truck up letting it idle every morning then I'd suggest installing a high idle relay and switch or just drive her as soon as the red oil pressure warning light goes out indicating she is ready and oil has made it to the critical areas so it's now safe to drive. Once the oil turns to sludge every winter from the idle time, it's too thick for the flow nessesry for proper HPOP operation. Once that happens she stalls from lack of fuel going into the cylander at the correct parameters. But does start again and may stay on or may stall again until she has sufficiently warmed up to the point where the cold thick oil is now warm and a lot thinner but also warm or hot oil takes up more space as it expands during warmup. so cold she is thick and maybe a little low in terms of oil level compounding the issue of being too thick. Resulting in the HPOP being unable to suply the necessary pressure needed to properly fire the injectors. When she stalls does she loose power and make any kingd of noise like a hissing kinda tapping sound? Air filter also because if it's clogged or restricted then the turbo has the potential to suck oil up from the crack case through the ccbv in the VC right under the intake tube where it meets the turbo. Also last but not least if the oil is regularly this like this dude to procedure and route end then there is a chance the oil suply check valve used to allow the HPOP rest to maintain a certain level drawing up oil as needed rather than constantly circulating it throuout the sys. If that's the case then the HPOP res that need 3qts to operate MAY ONLY HAVE 1or 2 Qts until last he oil I see hint enough to fill up the HPOP res and then instead of staying primed it leads back into the cc when you turn it off leaving barely enough to start and not enough to run smooth u till the oil is thinnedand expanded. Hope this helps bro pm me. Anytime but def get that blue tooth obd2 and the apps and I'll shoow u how for 30$ you have almost the same capabilities if you know how to use it as the expensive diagnostic tools
 

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Athens as you need are torque pro and car Gage's pro from the App Store and an elm27 Bluetooth obd2scanner interface then your android or apple smart devices can be used real time to monitor the o2levles real time while driving, or idling, incomplete combustion is a filler and these two apps and Bluetooth obd2 interface cost around 20-30$ for all 3 and I can teach you how it can do everything from perform and initiate a buz test to tell u own many mg of fuel its injecting per stroke while drive down the road
 
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