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Discussion Starter #21
I FOUND IT. I found the damn leak. Its on the drivers side bellows on the back side so I cant see it from the top. I was underneath yesterday looking at the clamp to see if it was really not seated properly and I saw this little carboned up section. With the truck running you can hear that it is coming from here. I have ordered the XDP upgraded y pipe that has dual braided bellows to replace this one with. Is the y pipe able to be replaced without removing the turbo?
 

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Yes, you can replace the y-pipe without removing the turbo. Just pull the cab first. :look:
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Honestly I don't know. I can't see getting a full y-pipe in there with the limited space, but may be possible. I bet it will be easier to just pull the turbo to start with.
Now if you purchased the BD kit, I could see doing that with the turbo in place, though I'd probably pull it anyway.
https://www.xtremediesel.com/bd-power-1043916-up-pipe-kit
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Yes, you can replace the y-pipe without removing the turbo. Just pull the cab first. :look:
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Honestly I don't know. I can't see getting a full y-pipe in there with the limited space, but may be possible. I bet it will be easier to just pull the turbo to start with.
Now if you purchased the BD kit, I could see doing that with the turbo in place, though I'd probably pull it anyway.
https://www.xtremediesel.com/bd-power-1043916-up-pipe-kit

I will just pull the turbo I think. Its 4 couplers 3 bolts an oil line and a plug. Hopefully my y pipe bolts arent seized...
 

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Hopefully my y pipe bolts arent seized...
From the looks of your pic, I don't think they're too bad, but I'd replace them with some good quality stainless steel bolts anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
From the looks of your pic, I don't think they're too bad, but I'd replace them with some good quality stainless steel bolts anyway.
I will do that.

Once the turbo is out is it pretty easy to get to both sides of the y pipe? And what is the best way to put the new one in, connect to turbo first then tighten lower connections? Will I even be able to get to the lower connections with the turbo in?
 

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With the turbo out, the only part that's a little challenging is the passenger side up-pipe to y-pipe connection. Circled on the attachment. A helper makes it a lot easier, but if you're alone, it can be a b!tch to get the bolts in a tightened. Doable, but a pain all the same.
 

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Pull the turbo then unhook the y pipe and pull it out thru the top. When i put my new set in, i left the bolts on the manifold side loose till i had the turbo side seated. Then tightened them. Seemed to work good.

The reason @ChrisSki mentioned the water pump pulley is because under high load the engine warms to a point that the cooling fan needs to kick in. Once that extra load is placed on the pulley and belt contact area, it will slip causing a squeal. If you monitor the VSS pid u can see the noise pick up when the fan speed increases. Determining this versus an exhaust leak can be a pain. I have the blue wire mod so replicating it anytime is simple on my truck. Well till i fixed it, lol.

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
 

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A set of moon wrenches to get the Y Pipe bolts helped a lot. That held one side secured as I got to it from the other side.

To get the passenger side done and undone was the moon wrench up top and an 18" long 1/2" ratchet extension from the bottom.

When assembling, I left the Y-Pipe loose until the turbo was seated and then tightened the Y-Pipe. Its the only way I could get the turbo to Y-Pipe to seat easily.

It was a lot easier the second time around then the first. I hope not to do it a third.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Ok question on this because I have watched a couple videos and have seen the ratchet strap method to get the pipe aligned with the turbo which sounds like a terrible idea. If I do as ChrisSki said and make sure the Y pipe > Turbo connection is 100% good first and then tighten the Y pipe > Header connections could I possibly develop a leak down at the lower connection points? Or are those more forgiving to misalignment? I bought a XDP Y pipe with the braided+flex joints on both sides.
 

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This is the video I got the wiggle method from:


Honestly, when I did this wiggle method, I developed a leak down the road. I had installed an aftermarket up-pipe, and I knew the aftermarket pipe did not fit well to start with when I had to use a crowbar to get it to seat. Turns out after having Strictly Diesel fix it, they replaced the aftermarket pipe with the OEM up pipe, it fit well, and there was no more leak. I went to this wiggle method after I couldn't get it in by hand, and the strap ratcheting method didn't work.

So, I did develop a leak using this wiggle method, but I think this was caused by a poorly fitting up pipe and not the method used to install it.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Ok I will give the wiggle method a try first and see if it works. I bought new gaskets for the header > Y pipe connections so hopefully that helps me stop any possible leaks. I have a brand new Y pipe > Turbo clam so hopefully that helps too.
 
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