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Discussion Starter #21
Ok, I'm 80% sure I'm on the right path wish I would of checked this a while back. But I have what looks to be 1.48amp parasitic loss on driver side batter. I separated the batteries by disconnecting the passenger batt. I put my meter between the negative batt and negative cable for the 1.48 reading on the drivers side. I went threw ALL of the fuses but it never went away.... if I remove the + piggyback off the + battery connector it goes to zero. But couldn't find it with pulling fuses.

Is there something not fused that will continue to draw? Thanks in advance guys.
 

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You pulled the fuses in both boxes? Any fuses not in the boxes. My add on air pump is fused directly to the battery. There's got to be other fuses that are outside the fuse box.

Also, with the parasitic draw, a lot of devices draw a bit of power until the truck enters "sleep mode." For my car that took about 30 minutes with the door shut. If I opened the door, it reset that 30 minute timer to enter sleep mode. 1.48 amps is definitely excessive for sleep mode, not maybe not for immediately after shutting the key off. I did not do the parasitic draw test on the truck, and perhaps if you disconnect a battery and then swap to the opposite side, maybe the clock starts over.
 

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Hey Chris, I had to find this as it's old.

I appreciate the video. It does help me understand some of the charging system on my RV Solar system, but also makes me realize that the "regulator" I spoke of before is not that necessary.
 

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Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
Ok, I disconnected the fuse box inside the cab and checked, the + covered with the red ca and still. 1.48amp draw, so I found the fuse box in the engine bay... pulled all those fuses one at a time and still had 1.48amp draw. I looked and then disconnected its + in the back covered by a black cover... still 1.48 at the battery. Whaaaaa... just to make sure I put the drivers battery cable back on and checked the volts on the battery post against the back of the engine bay fuse box and they were the same. Even though it was a black cover it was the + I had tested.

Taking a little break to asses.... dang it, I had just stepped in and out of my truck might of reset it. I'm going to clean up and go back connect the battery and wait a few hours and recheck.

I just though even if I did have something on... pulling one switch at a time or the hole fuse box + cable would stop the draw...

Oh, to clarify... I didnt start it today.. i went in and out of the cab. I'll still plug all in and see tonight.
 

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I think for dual battery systems you need to do the parasitic draw test with one battery completely disconnected. When I did the parasitic draw test on my car, for each battery post I used a 50 amp clip to the battery, a ten foot wire, and a regular alligator clip to the mulitmeter post so I could watch the amps as I pulled the fuse. I think I either taped the door latch switch shut or climbed in and out the window.

The parasitic draw test was frustrating because the vehicle maintenance guys at work said the radio was killing my battery when the car was parked for a week, but when I did the parasitic draw test like they did, the radio was barely pulling any amps in sleep mode. To this day, I don't know what the problem with my car is, but when I went to the airport and left it parked for weeks, I would disconnect the battery, and at home I leave it plugged to a trickle charger and it works fine. That car is 17 years old and has more than just that phantom parasitic draw, but I love not having any vehicle payments. I do like the idea of driving vehicles till the wheels fall off.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
On a mission... to go camping! Left it for a while and its still 1.4amp draw. Saw there were two PCM +, removed both without opening doors, but still. I started to check the piggyback connector, it and it seems that inside the shielding there are 2 grey wires, smaller than what the Fuse boxes use for their + connections. Tomorrow i look to find out where 2 two cables go on their path to the fuse boxes. Before i do that... i think i'm going to start the truck, then go from driver batt + with the meter to + of the first fuse box in the engine bay. Check for loss.

I probably should of taken pictures... do so tomorrow.
 

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Not sure how you are going about checking, but you can only have one battery connected, preferably the driver side since that one is where the computer and accessory power starts
you also need to have the meter already connected to the battery cable and post, before disconnecting the cable from the battery post
the reason is the systems need to be in "sleep" mode and disconnecting the battery, then trying to test will wake them

You can use a clamp on the battery cable and a clip that slips under the cable and connects to the post to achieve the desired result
there are ready made clips, but a thin piece of copper with a cutout to slide around the post works well
some 3/4 or 1 inch hard copper tubing, mash it flat and cut the right size notch to fit snug on the battery post

connect your meter to the cable and to the copper adapter, then remove the cable from the battery
the circuit will now flow thru the meter without disturbing the connection -- so the system stays in sleep mode
Be sure the under hood light is disconnected and do not open the door -- you should get the dirt on any parasitic draw
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Yes, i only had the drivers side connected. ah, you're right.. i completely remove the - from the drivers to put the meter in the middle. I'll make the connection first then pull off the - batt cable, keep the connection. I did remove the connection the hood light bulb.. mostly because i didn't want to forget to leaving the hood up and draining the battery.

Researching, but still cant find where the two grey cables go, i see the fuse box in the engine bay does slide off, might see if i can view where they go under it.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Yes, i only had the drivers side connected. ah, you're right.. i completely remove the - from the drivers to put the meter in the middle. I'll make the connection first then pull off the - batt cable, keep the connection. I did remove the connection the hood light bulb.. mostly because i didn't want to forget to leaving the hood up and draining the battery.

Researching, but still cant find where the two grey cables go. From what i see thy could be fuse cables that then go back to one. Its late i might be missing something obvious... picking it back up after work tomorrow....
 

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The two grey wires are the fusible links in the middle of the 4ga cable between the drivers battery box and the central junction box, aka, fuse panel.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
So... update, I'm 1/2 way though re installing one fuse at a time. I def have questions when done but there are some fuses that when I connect them it goes right to 1.38amp draw... get this, from both fuse boxes.... laying under dash, be back. 80% of fuses I put back have no issues, that's why when I did one at a time it had no affect. Will try to correlate after...
 

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Discussion Starter #33
First of all, thanks again for the assist on this...

Ok, i have all fuses that do not draw back in, both fuse boxes connected.I decided i to disconnect EVERYTHING from the fuse link from drivers batt + and start from there. Cable on its own checked out fine. Started with the engine bay fuse box and worked in and there were a few that drew the 1.3amp when inserted, each on its own would pull 1.3amp, or with multiple "bad" would only total to 1.3amp. Tested with new/different fuses. In the end i have all "good" fuse locations in, with .15amp draw. Only the driver batt connected.

Next step is to find a common ground? or connector, test the connector end to end? I've thought about unplugging the connector on the back of the fuse box corresponding to a "bad" fuse location and inserting the fuse to see if it pulls the 1.3amps, saying the fuse box is probably bad? But that would be both are cab and engine bay are bad.

Cab fuse box fuses causing 1.3amp draw:
#2 - Instrument cluster.
#7 - High beam flash/pass
#11 - Radio main
#18 - Flasher break on/off lamp
#19 - body security module
#20 - electrical brake control
#101 - trailer tow EBC.

Engine bay fuse box causing 1.3amp draw:
#22 - ABS coils
#10 - PCM

768058
 

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Discussion Starter #34
I feel this is a way to test fuse block right? Trying to figure out what its trying to tell me... any help is appreciated....

768059
 

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So, ...you are doing this testing with the door open?
 

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Recommend you go to the sticky with the wiring diagrams. You might find those devices hooked to a common relay. It’s a 2004 my diagram, but something.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
No door open, i used a step to climb in out the window. I purchased some clamp cables for my meter and did what you said. If there was a drop between test procedures it was maybe .1amps, as i looked up at previous posts/notes i noted 1.4amp draw.

@ChrisSki, funny i was trying to find software that would have all pinouts/diagrams. I'm planning on keeping the truck to pull camper/hot rod so it would be good to have. I say digital because i like the "search" option in digital. I see videos of guys always filming some type of software on their screen with schematics, trying to find what that is. Did find this... 6.0L Electrical Schematics (2004, YMMV) <----- mind blown, be some to digest.

Will say i am learning some electrical... well i'm entering the " i'm dangerous" stage. I'll develop a plan for tonight during lunch.
 

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Have you disconnected the alternator? -- cable and plug
 

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If you’re having a parasitic drain, and its actually causing no starts or slow cranks, than you could always disconnect the batteries when parking. My car, when I leave it for more than a couple days, I disconnect the battery. It will start fine after connected, but would have slow or no starts If I wait too long. I now leave the battery on a 1.5 amp trickle charger. I’ve found that much easier than fixing the problem. That car will never leave the Phoenix Valley for the rest of its life.

You seem to be persistent enough that you’ll get to the bottom of this problem. It’s figuring out a good way to troubleshoot it without throwing parts at it. After I watched @TooManyToys video, I was on Amazon getting ready to spend $700 on multimeters so I could replicate that video, but after a few minutes of thought, I really don’t need to rush out and get two more multimeters. So may routes you could go down that may fix it, or may not: Large 250 amp alterntor, new battery cables Including frame grounds, and bigger batteries. Might do all that and then find its an accessory relay.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
@Hydro and chrisSki This whole thing started that my obd2 reader reads at 13.1 to 13.4 idle right at startup even though alternator is at 13.8v. Tested and loss is only .15-ish from alternator to driver battery.... I used to be steady at at least 13.6 on obd2 reader. Confirmed with meter of loss. After warmup if I turn on the headlights volt flickers into the 12.9s. Starts fine though.... that's what started this whole business. Alternator pumping out 13.8 and by the time the ficm gets ready at 13.1 to 13.4...

I wanted to unplug at the alternator but I had the internal fuse box with no fuses or pigtails... testing resistance. Had to put the pcm back cause I was checking for pins/corrosion When I was done I put it all together, all fuses in cab and bay. Connected the batteries, at 12.7v... crank crank crank... nothing. After I took a second thinking... "wtf you doing... your not an electrician!!" Wife said my face turned pale! Ha ha ha... I rechecked my wires, all connected. After 10min I decided to check codes take a picture and look them up for homework... when the codes came up it looked like ALL of them. So in disbelief that I fried EVERYTHING... I cleared the codes and tried to start it again. Started on 2nd turnover.

I'm thinking I'm a step away from it for tonight, a little too much excitement.

This whole thing is that 13.1v fluctuation is low when I used to hover at high 13s.
 
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