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The following is a copy of a post I did on another forum last year.

Now that winter is here I decided to park my truck in the shop to give me something to do in the evenings. I decided there was three things on my to do list. IDM mod, DIY stage Is, and to convert from mechanical to an electrical fuel system. I know that you can buy kits to do this but part of the fun is trying to gather together all the parts you need. Luckily others have done this before so I didn't have to try and figure out what regulator and filters would work. Here is the list of parts I used and the costs.

Prefilter and base - Stanadyne 33640 (thedieselstore.com) $74.64
Secondary Filter Base - (WIX): 24770 (Fleetfilter.com) $26.00
Secondary Filter - (WIX) 33528 (Fleetfilter.com) $9.00
Fuel Pump - (ebay.com) $114
Fuel Lines - Stainless steel 3/8" under turbo (local) $100
Oil pressure switch - Holley 12-810 (amazon.com) $28.00
Fuel pressure switch - (local) $25.00
Fuel regulator - Aeromotive 13109 (ebay.com) $133
Fuel hose - Parker (international dealer) $5.00
Stainless hose clamps - (home depot) $7.00
Fuel pressure guage - (harbor freight) $5.00
Brass three way connector - (harbor freight) $4.00
Fittings misc brass - (harbor freight) $13.00
Fittings - Parker (local) $37.33
Wire - (local) $5.00
Fuel pump bracket - (wrecking yard) $5.00
Misc stuff - (local) $9.00
Total - $600

The first thing I did was remove the stock filter housing and pump. The only thing I left was the fuel lines coming into the valley from the tanks.

I went to a transmission shop and had some custom made 3/8" stainless steel fuel lines to go under the turbo. These attached to the back of the head and came together with a brass three way air connector. I bent the stock lines by hand into the right positions being careful not to kink them. I did not need to cut them to make them fit.

I fabbed a bracket out of stainless steel to mount the pressure regulator to the bracket on top of the HPOP reservoir. I reused the existing flex fuel lines coming from the front of the heads into the fuel regulator.

Front view


The wire for the fuel filter restriction was plugged into the fuel pressure sensor to light the dash light if fuel pressure drops below 20lbs.

I went to the wrecking yard and got a fuse box from an F150 so that I could add another relay and fuse to my fuse box. I added the relay in the upper left corner and the large size 30amp fuse furthest to the right. All wiring was run in existing looms where possible. I wanted this whole setup to look as factory as possible.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
For the fuel filters I fabbed a couple brackets from stainless and mounted the filters as high up as I could. They are not visible unless you get under the truck. This is only possible on an F350. My F250 doesn't have the depth under the cab in front of the front fuel tank.

I mounted the fuel pump using a bracket from a Ford car that holds the fuel filter. It was just the right size and worked perfect. It might have been easier to just use a SD pump but that would have cost me more.

The oil pressure sensor was installed in the rear oil cooler header. I used a rubber boot from a BMW at the wrecking yard. I was surprised how well it fit.

I also added a fuel safety shutoff switch from another Ford car. I spent quite some time looking in the engine compartment until I realized they were located in the trunk.

Quick drawing of the basic wiring

Finished it up last night and took it for a spin. All I can say is I've never felt anything like it before! I just wonder how long my tranny is going to last now. I have a TW chip with the street race position but it hasn't been programed for the new Stage 1s I put in. Anyhow all I can say is this is a different truck.
 

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Electrical Ogre
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Nice job :nod: Unique approach with the custom fuel lines in the valley. I did a conversion a few months back and put my crash switch in the truck gasser location in the passenger kick panel (if you take off the plastic you'll see the mounting holes.)
 

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deffinetly different then mine but I like yours:) nice job
 

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looks like my upcoming project. what pump did you use? i see you found it on ebay...
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
The pump is a no name brand from Canada. It's been reliable but does not flow enough now for my Stage I injectors with the TW street race tune at WOT. It sets a CEL and my low fuel pressure light in the dash lights. I would probably go with a SD pump if I was to do over or this one goes out.

Update: The CEL was because of low HPO I changed out my HPOP for an Adrenalin and haven't set a CEL since.

looks like my upcoming project. what pump did you use? i see you found it on ebay...
 

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The following is a copy of a post I did on another forum last year.

Now that winter is here I decided to park my truck in the shop to give me something to do in the evenings. I decided there was three things on my to do list. IDM mod, DIY stage Is, and to convert from mechanical to an electrical fuel system. I know that you can buy kits to do this but part of the fun is trying to gather together all the parts you need. Luckily others have done this before so I didn't have to try and figure out what regulator and filters would work. Here is the list of parts I used and the costs.

Prefilter and base - Stanadyne 33640 (thedieselstore.com) $74.64
Secondary Filter Base - (WIX): 24770 (Fleetfilter.com) $26.00
Secondary Filter - (WIX) 33528 (Fleetfilter.com) $9.00
Fuel Pump - (ebay.com) $114
Fuel Lines - Stainless steel 3/8" under turbo (local) $100
Oil pressure switch - Holley 12-810 (amazon.com) $28.00
Fuel pressure switch - (local) $25.00
Fuel regulator - Aeromotive 13109 (ebay.com) $133
Fuel hose - Parker (international dealer) $5.00
Stainless hose clamps - (home depot) $7.00
Fuel pressure guage - (harbor freight) $5.00
Brass three way connector - (harbor freight) $4.00
Fittings misc brass - (harbor freight) $13.00
Fittings - Parker (local) $37.33
Wire - (local) $5.00
Fuel pump bracket - (wrecking yard) $5.00
Misc stuff - (local) $9.00
Total - $600

The first thing I did was remove the stock filter housing and pump. The only thing I left was the fuel lines coming into the valley from the tanks.

I went to a transmission shop and had some custom made 3/8" stainless steel fuel lines to go under the turbo. These attached to the back of the head and came together with a brass three way air connector. I bent the stock lines by hand into the right positions being careful not to kink them. I did not need to cut them to make them fit.

I fabbed a bracket out of stainless steel to mount the pressure regulator to the bracket on top of the HPOP reservoir. I reused the existing flex fuel lines coming from the front of the heads into the fuel regulator.

Front view


The wire for the fuel filter restriction was plugged into the fuel pressure sensor to light the dash light if fuel pressure drops below 20lbs.

I went to the wrecking yard and got a fuse box from an F150 so that I could add another relay and fuse to my fuse box. I added the relay in the upper left corner and the large size 30amp fuse furthest to the right. All wiring was run in existing looms where possible. I wanted this whole setup to look as factory as possible.
I like your layout. I am looking at attempting to do the same but a little scared. I am sure once I see it all it will come together fine. What did you do with the return line that goes to the tank? The Primary from the tank is what you ran into your 3 way Y connector correct that then goes to the rear head fuel lines? So do I need to keep any of the existing wiring that is on the factory fuel bowl?

So the flex fuel lines coming from the front of the heads that goes into the fuel regulator did you just run the passenger side fuel line to the passenger side of the fuel regulator and the drivers side to the drivers side? Is it that simple?

My worst fears are doing the rear fuel lines going to the back of the heads and the wiring. Is it safe to cut the existing steel fuel lines that connect to the banjo bolt on the rear of the fuel pump and just connect diesel fuel hose lines to them? I mean I like you layout better but would be afraid I would not get them made to the correct length.

So is the IPR valve still used or is that deleted as well when using the fuel regulator. Sorry if these seem to be dumb questions but want to slowly try and do this build myself if I can and get rid of my factory leaking fuel bowl.

Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks

Larry
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I like your layout. I am looking at attempting to do the same but a little scared. I am sure once I see it all it will come together fine. What did you do with the return line that goes to the tank? The Primary from the tank is what you ran into your 3 way Y connector correct that then goes to the rear head fuel lines? So do I need to keep any of the existing wiring that is on the factory fuel bowl?
The return line connects to the outlet of the FPR. The main line from the tank goes into the three way which splits and goes to the back of the heads. The only wire I used was the fuel filter restriction light wire to indicate low fuel pressure.

So the flex fuel lines coming from the front of the heads that goes into the fuel regulator did you just run the passenger side fuel line to the passenger side of the fuel regulator and the drivers side to the drivers side? Is it that simple?
Yes, it is that simple.

My worst fears are doing the rear fuel lines going to the back of the heads and the wiring. Is it safe to cut the existing steel fuel lines that connect to the banjo bolt on the rear of the fuel pump and just connect diesel fuel hose lines to them? I mean I like you layout better but would be afraid I would not get them made to the correct length.
You could do that but I wanted bigger lines. You would still need to split the incoming line into two somehow.

So is the IPR valve still used or is that deleted as well when using the fuel regulator. Sorry if these seem to be dumb questions but want to slowly try and do this build myself if I can and get rid of my factory leaking fuel bowl.
The new FPR replaces the whole bowl and everything that connects to it.

Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks

Larry
Hope this helps.
 

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DERAIL MOD!!!
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Great job, very clean install

What DIY stage 1's you got?
 

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from the wiring harness you also need to reconnect the IPR. lots of people forget this and don't understand why their truck won't run
 
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Discussion Starter #11
Great job, very clean install

What DIY stage 1's you got?
I had Rosewood Diesel do them for me. It wasn't much more than the DIY kit at the time and I didn't want to have any issues with them.
 

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DERAIL MOD!!!
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Makes since, he no longer sells a DIY kit
 

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from the wiring harness you also need to reconnect the IPR. lots of people forget this and don't understand why their truck won't run
Thanks for bringing this up Terry about the IPR. So is the wiring for the IPR part of the existing wiring with all the glow plug wires? I am trying to remember if it is or do I need to run a separate wire? Thanks
 

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The IPR is part of the wiring on the fuel bowl. after deleting the fuel bowl you need to remove the harness from the bowl and reinstall the harness
 
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Discussion Starter #18
How do you bleed the air from the system when replacing the filters?
I just disconnect the positive wire from the pump and connect a jumper battery to run the pump till all the air is out of the lines. Quick and easy.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
may have missed it but what key on power source did you tap for the relay control ?
I believe I tapped into the fuel heater wire by the firewall if I remember correctly.
 

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