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Well my Dad is in a good mood tonight and allowing me to order my FCDP and then pay him off.

Well, I don't want to spend $1,500 on parts and labor, so I am deciding to do it myself.

What all do I do during this operation?
Replace coolant?
How much coolant do our trucks hold?
Drain oil?
How do I remove the turbo?
What should I look out for when removing the turbo?
Tips on getting to the up-pipe?
What big problems should I expect to run into?
How do I get the alternator off?
How do I get the oil filter housing off?


I have no serious mechanical experience, but have worked in a garage and seen the way things work. Plus, this operation doesn't seem too entirely involved.

Anyways, any tips would be awesome!

Thanks, Taylor.
 

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When I did my head gaskets and egr delete, my truck took almost 6 gallons of coolant. 3 gal of ford gold, 3 gals of water. Turbo has 3 bolts holding it in 10mm along with the down pipe clamp, intake, up pipes, and oil feed. Turbo comes out pretty easy, might need to tap the clamps on the down pipe and up pipes lightly with a screw driver and hammer to loosen it up. Its a good idea to soak the up pipe bolts a few days before you try and take them out it will really make it easy. oil filter housing comes off really very easily, you just need a torx i think 45 but not positive. Alternator is 3 or 4 bolts. If you work on cars and have mechanical ability you shouldnt have any trouble. Good luck
 

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Lt. Negativity
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Another you can do, is also place all the bolts where they came from as you pull them off and keep them in place so you dont loose anything. Also another idea would be to take pictures as you go, so incase you forgot you can look back on something.
 

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Is that write up an EGR delete or just a bypass?
I am going to be doing this soon, but I want a complete DELETE, if this is it, I am going to print it off.
 

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Every egr delete is different so it depends on what kind you get. When you take off the turbo be careful when you loosen the bolts on the turbo. I'm guessing you wont using air tools anyways, but make sure you go use them on the turbo so that you dont break anything. If you are planning on getting a kit with a new up pipe you might as well not fool with it and just block off the port on the existing pipe. Its alot easier, and nearly impossible to do without pulling the whole engine out. Good luck with it, but i wouldnt say its easiest install in the world if you don't have any mechanical experience.
 

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When you take the bolts/studs out of the intake manifold make sure you mark which ones are studs so you know where they go, saves some time. Also there is what appears to be a ground wire attached to the back of the intake manifold on the drivers side, dont forget that when reassembling. Its not too terribly tough, but its a TON easier with two guys doing it. Just take your time because it can be frustrating your first time.
 

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When you put your turbo back in, make sure you set it up there the way it's going to sit (smaller circle towards the back of the engine). Lean it down as if you were pushing it away from you onto it's back. Get the smaller circle under the cab hangover, then stand it back up towards you the way it was before you leaned it over. It's hard to explain, but hope it helps. They're kind of a pain.
 

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some very good tips listed. The most important besides the turbo reinstal hints is to make sure every bolt stud goes back into the same hole it came out of. I take a peice of card board and punch holes for each bolt stud so they go back in the same order and dont get mixed up. If you do the cardboard mark one end cab and the other radiator.
Good luck
oh, and i have yet to do the job you areabout to do but i have spent lots of years wrenchin trucks and tractors
 

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'Merica
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I just got done with a complete EGR delete on a friends truck.. used an RCD kit, with up pipe.

it was fairly simple, remove air intake, remove alternator, remove turbo feed, remove the three 10m bolts holding turbo to pedestal, "roll" turbo to pass side and remove. unbolt pedestal and remove, loosen intake manifold bolts, unbolt egr and slide out towards back of engine (only after you remove uppipe) and bla bla bla...

wasnt too terrible. uppipe prove to somewhat of a pain, and i ended up also changing the oil cooler core a the same time.

took about 2 days... first time gettin that deep into a 6.0..

will definately be pulling the cab on my truck for studs and delete. :thumb: for those who do studs in cab. you guys deserve a lot of credit.
 

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great tips guys,

Just got done with mine yesterday, Liberator kit. Couple of things I learned from the experience.

Use the locking tab on the belt tensioner, have a buddy pull on the belt with a rag and lock er' out.

Have a good helping hand to get the turbo and intake manifold out. Don't need to remove the downpipe to do this job. If you are replacing the up pipe, remove the passenger side inner fender well. Then use long extension with a universal to remove the bolts on the up pipe. I ended up buying all new nuts and bolts for the up pipe. They are a pain but will come out, 1/2 socket, if feel loose, tap a 12mm on there.

what else......ohhh, make sure when you install the turbo, you bolt the turbo down first then the up-pipe connection then the down pipe. Once the turbo is happy bolt the up-pipe connects at the manifold, I didn't do that sequence and had a good leak on the up pipe connection, broke the clamp and had to wait until monday for the new clamp.

I updated the turbo oil drain pipe also, that thing is like twice the diameter of the old one. I bought a new intake gasket kit, air intake sensor, fuel filter gasket kit, oil filter housing oring, turbo oil feed gasket and oring, up pipe gasket.

Any questions feel free to ask
 

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these are not exact prices, I already tossed the receipt, I will try to do this from memory.

turbo oil drain pipe - 25
intake gasket kit- 70
air intake sensor, 4 up-pipe bolts, 6 up-pipe nuts, fuel filter housing gasket, and fuel filter o-ring kit - 90 for the whole deal.
up-pipe gasket- 5 something
oil feed gasket - 5 something

The total bill from the dealership with all gaskets was 210.90 (checked the online statement)

hope this helps

you could probably skip out on the fuel filter and oil filter gasket o-rings. My air intake temp sensor was solid soot though. Depending on how much salt your truck has seen you most likely won't need the new up-pipe nuts and bolts (i live in MN so its brutal on steel).
 

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couldn't tell, figured as long as i was in there. I think you can replace that without pulling anything else apart.
 
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