[Slayer13]

i was thinking about getting this plate for 35 bucks. the mechanics i talk to say it would work. they have never done it tho or seen it done. has anyone here done this or recommend it? i have an 04 with AFE intake, diablo sport tuner that i leave on 60hp and straight pipe exhaust. looking to save any egr problems in the future and i heard that running fresh, cool fuel and air, is a lot better for longevity. here is the link

6.0L EGR Components

 

[Abrannan19]

only problem with the block off plate is what we describe here on our website:

Also here at FCDP we see a lot of people use a plate or freeze plug to block off the gases and heat from entering the EGR cooler. This method is far from the right way. With this method you will get heat soaking through that thin metal plate right back into the EGR cooler, exactly what you are trying to stop. Just illustration purposes consider 600-800* of exhaust gases hitting against the plate, here is where you see what we are talking about. And with blocking off the EGR cooler this way and leaving the “y” section you create a vertex of air, its trying to get into the EGR cooler through the “Y” but then hits the plate and has to come back out and then up, its very inefficient. With simply using the freeze plug on the 05^ trucks that internal scoop found on your up pipes acts as a torch on that thin metal plate and overtime it will melt, we have seen it happen time after time.

also, can be found here: First Coast Diesel Performance -Solid Up Pipe- Your Source For Powerstroke Performance

 

[HeavyAssault]

If that 1.5" steel disc is 1/4" thick I doubt heat soak is an issue. I have welded my own EGR up-pipe and using my IR thermometer the temps at the EGR cooler are no higher than the coolant. It has been said many times to remove the scoop (if present) as well. There isn't any "vortex" if the intake isn't sucking the exhaust flow into the EGR cooler. The air will follow the path of least resistance and not be directed towards the EGR cooler or the steel disc.

The modded EGR up-pipe will work great as long as you don't already have EGR cooler issues. SLAYER13..PM sent.

 

[Abrannan19]

So when you hit 600-1200* you gonna rest your flat hand on that 1/4" plate?

you are telling me there wouldn't be any air in that up pipe with the Y there, if so, you are crazy, even more so if there is a scoop.

 

[HeavyAssault]

So when you hit 600-1200* you gonna rest your flat hand on that 1/4" plate?

you are telling me there wouldn't be any air in that up pipe with the Y there, if so, you are crazy, even more so if there is a scoop.

This comes from someone who thinks you need to change out your OEM air filter at every oil change........:hehe::hehe::hehe::hehe::hehe::hehe::hehe:

Don't sound so stupid Adam...OF course there is air there in the Y pipe but the flow of the exhaust isn't going into the EGR cooler therefore the heat transfer takes MUCH longer than normal to heat the coolant inside the EGR cooler. If anyone undertakes the task of modding the up-pipe themselves their reading on these forums will show that removal of the scoop (as needed) is also a must do when you mod the up-pipe.

:doh::doh:Stop getting offended over someone else's thoughts on how to prevent EGR problems. I have said MANY times if the EGR cooler is toast you might as well do the full delete since you got to do the work anyway. Anyone not experiencing EGR cooler issues can try modding the up-pipe first before shelling out the money on any of the kits on the market.

I have a modded up-pipe, I know the results, I have proven it PLENTY of times.:thumb::thumb::thumb::thumb:

 

[Abrannan19]

This comes from someone who thinks you need to change out your OEM air filter at every oil change........:hehe::hehe::hehe::hehe::hehe::hehe::hehe:

Don't sound so stupid Adam...OF course there is air there in the Y pipe but the flow of the exhaust isn't going into the EGR cooler therefore the heat transfer takes MUCH longer than normal to heat the coolant inside the EGR cooler. If anyone undertakes the task of modding the up-pipe themselves their reading on these forums will show that removal of the scoop (as needed) is also a must do when you mod the up-pipe.

:doh::doh:Stop getting offended over someone else's thoughts on how to prevent EGR problems. I have said MANY times if the EGR cooler is toast you might as well do the full delete since you got to do the work anyway. Anyone not experiencing EGR cooler issues can try modding the up-pipe first before shelling out the money on any of the kits on the market.

I have a modded up-pipe, I know the results, I have proven it PLENTY of times.:thumb::thumb::thumb::thumb:

that was a misquote on the air filter, but thanks though, I appreciate it, I was merely thinking of gas motors, my mistake.

I know that it takes much longer, with a thicker plate, and I know it will work, but its not the most efficient way is what i am getting at, and on a trip of 100 miles or so, I would be willing to bet that heat is soaking through, minimum of 600* hitting on a 1/4 " plate for an hour or so...

I know there is several ways to accomplish the same end result and that fine, I am just stating our standpoint, if that makes me stupid, then so be it.

 

[HeavyAssault]

I don't think the heat soak is as bad as you perceive. In your kit what material is used for the up-pipe?

 

[Slayer13]

heavy assault, i tried sending you a message but it said your inbox was full

 

[Pipewelder71]

If you use a carbon steel plate plug, it may burn a hole over time because of high egt's. Carbon steel has a lower melting point than stainess steel. So it has a greater chance of burning up.

But if you use a 304 stainless steel plate plug and (tig) weld it into place, it will last longer than the up pipe will. The up pipe is made up of stainless (304).

I built my own delete set up for my ride. I cut out the scoop and welded in a 1/4" stainless plate. Then I tig welded both ends of the cooler to seal it up to prevent any leaks with 1/4" stainless.

As far as heat sink, the whole engine is a serious heat sink. But I would rather have a 1/4" plate plug than a sheet metal plug.

 

[03f250stroke]

i posted about this before about the plate. why spend 35 bucks on something that is known to fail. i have seen it fail and you wont know it until something else goes, cooler or worse.

adam is right, he does have some knowledge about this, he only deals with them everyday

 

[korterman1]

AHHHHH EGR block off plate, full delete, bypass. do this not that, heat flash, ir gun. high egt,cel Y-pipe, HELP. Mine works just fine, plus i live in the great broke state of CALIFORNIA and have to pass a smog test.

 

[HeavyAssault]

heavy assault, i tried sending you a message but it said your inbox was full

There should be room now.

 

[Dave]

:stump: opcorn:

 

[Pipewelder71]

Hey slayer13 , look up "My solution for the EGR problem" in the 6.0 motor problems.

 

[realfstkid]

Well, from an engineering standpoint, what you are saying about "heat soak" is pretty wrong. Heat transfers MUCH MUCH faster when there is flow. If you are thinking that this is going to heat up too much, then why wouldn't the Y-pipe break? The scoop? Surely all these parts will be "heat soaked" as well.

The thing you are forgetting is that convection (transfer of heat through movement of fluid--in this case exhaust gas--over a surface) is the fastest way to heat something up. So stagnant air against a plate is not going to do much compared to an operating system with plenty of flow.

Conduction (transfer of heat through a material) is another very effective means of heat transfer, especially in metal. So I would have to say that your up pipe is probably cooler than deleting the whole system because, with a system like this, there is coolant going through the EGR cooler, which is still firmly attached to this block off plate, and that heat will transfer from the block off plate, to the cooler, where the heat is transferred to the coolant.

The EGR cooler is MADE to cool exhaust gases. Unfortunately it doesn't have the longevity we all desire, or we wouldn't be talking about it in the first place, but it does cool, and it will surely cool the block-off-plate plate at the end of the cooler enough to bring that area to a temperature below that experienced by the rest of the Y-pipe.

Now, as to the scoop inside the Y-Pipe, I would get rid of this, and the only reason is because you are interrupting air flow through the pipe itself, which will in turn hurt your turbo spooling capability. That is similar to having 3" exhaust instead of 4", it simply constricts airflow.

I hope this helps someone make an informed decision.