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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I installed my Edge CST Insight a few days ago(and I love it!) and have a couple of questions.

When towing my 32' 5th wheel up some long up grade pulls today the ECT climbed to 242* and the EOT went as high as 248*. The air temp was in the mid 80's. As soon as I returned to "level" ground everything dropped back to normal readings. Are these high readings considered "normal" for what I was doing or should I be concerned? I checked the coolant level and it was good. I had to replace the EGR and oil cooler about 12,000 miles ago and to the best of my knowledge the Ford mechanic put Gold back in. I bought my '05 in 2010 and only had put on 1000 miles when the EGR died(and yes! I was so very impressed :mad:) and didn't know that Gold isn't what I really wanted put back in my engine. So anyhow my green handle friends, please give your input to these high readings. :icon_ford:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yes, the fan comes on before the temps get high. And yes, it roars like hell. Your 218* ECT is most likely real close to my fan kicking in.
 

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Temps that high does not look good a coolant flush may make them go higher pulling:dunno: My 5er is 14k and the highest that i have seen is ECT 218* and EOT 228* outside temp90*+ 7% grade 6 miles long mark one more up for the Ford Gold Junk. If you do a coolant flush use about 3/4 gallon restore and 1/2 gallon restore+ because i think it is more goo than mineral buildup just my 2 cents


This should help you understand the reason to ditch the Gold junk it can't take the heat.
http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/6-...ced-oil-cooler-still-difference-temps-21.html

Flushing and cleaning the 6.0

Restore is for cleaning out any silicate goo. VC-9 is for cleaning out iron and scale. Restore Plus is the same as VC-9 and cheaper.

To flush drain the coolant by removing the lower radiator hose from the radiator, and removing the drain plug from the driver side of the block. There is a drain plug on the passenger side also but you have to remove the starter to get to it. I don't bother with that one.
I also highly recommend you pull the thermostat out on your first drain and put the housing back without the thermostat. It only takes about 10 minutes and will save you 2.5 hrs or so in doing this whole procedure.

Ok now put the lower hose back on and the drain plug back in the block if you removed it. This is the procedure you will use each time to drain the system, except you will not touch the thermostat again until you're finished the whole procedure. Make sure that you set your heater to high while doing this to flush out the heater core as well.

Fill the cooling system with distilled water, start the truck and let the water circulate for 5 minutes. (if you did not remove the thermostat you must run the truck until the thermostat opens + 5 minutes to circulate. This takes 15 to 20 minutes each cycle and is why you should just remove the thermostat) Stop the engine. Drain the system and repeat the flush.

Now add at least 1/2 gallon of Restore and fill with distilled water. I used cardboard in front of the radiator because you have to get to 185* 190* for these products to work. Drive truck or run on high idle for 60-90 minutes just before you get back from your drive remove the cardboard this will help in the cool down same on the Restore+ flush. Drain and flush 3 or 4 times. or tell clean

Add 2qts VC-9 or 1/2gal of Restore Plus, top with distilled water, and drive the truck or run on high idle for 60-90 minutes. Now drain and flush until flush water comes out clear and clean. When you get clean flush water, flush 3 more times using distilled water while draining the block.

After your final distilled water drain it is time to put the thermostat back in. I recommend you install a new thermostat at this point. They are only $20 or so and it is good maintenance procedure to do so. Fill with 3.5 or 4 gals of ELC concentrated coolant and top off with distilled water. Drive the truck or let run for a while topping off with distilled water. Check the truck over the next few days and top up as required while any air left in the system works its way out.

Keep some 50/50 ELC on hand to use to top off the cooling system from here out and you are good to go.

new t/stat from Ford it should all come together (housing-t/stat-o-ring) in a box. The part number is RT-1169

Here is the Restore Product from Cummins dealer
http://www.fleetguard.com/pdfs/produ...LI33024-GB.pdf
2 stroker
 

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Those temps seem a tad bit high. I would suspect that your water pump isn't circulating the coolant adequately since that isn't a high ambient temperature.

Just to give a frame of reference when pulling a similar grade with my 33' 5th wheel (at 12k lbs) I am right near 240* EOT and my ECT will get to about 230* and when that fan kicks in, it drops those temps right off and my ambient temps are around 110* with intake air temps around 140*...

Since your oil temp is directly related to your oil cooler's ability to offload the heat into the coolant, you must have a properly working water pump. I would suspect that your water pump impeller is loose on the water pump shaft. Just keep an eye on it for now, since you haven't hit the defuel mark on EOT (253*F), but you are close.
 

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2stroker how many gallons of distilled water do you have to have to do that kind of flush


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I checked the DTC's on the CST Insight and these 3 were listed:

1. P0299
2. P0478
3. P0234
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Those temps seem a tad bit high. I would suspect that your water pump isn't circulating the coolant adequately since that isn't a high ambient temperature.

Just to give a frame of reference when pulling a similar grade with my 33' 5th wheel (at 12k lbs) I am right near 240* EOT and my ECT will get to about 230* and when that fan kicks in, it drops those temps right off and my ambient temps are around 110* with intake air temps around 140*...

Since your oil temp is directly related to your oil cooler's ability to offload the heat into the coolant, you must have a properly working water pump. I would suspect that your water pump impeller is loose on the water pump shaft. Just keep an eye on it for now, since you haven't hit the defuel mark on EOT (253*F), but you are close.
I think I know the answer to my next question which is no, but here goes. Is there anyway to check to determine if it is the water pump impeller? :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yes, 2 Stroker, how many gallons of water did you use??
 

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Discussion Starter #11
My thought exactly. Most say they heard the roar of the fan, long before it (ECT) will ever get that high of a temp.

Mine roars at 218*
Like I said the fan comes on but the temps don't drop until I get to the top of the hill. Today, not towing, but driving 65 to 80 mph the ECT & EOT ranged between 186* and 214*. Both temps were no more than 8* apart at any given time. The air temp was in the high 70's to the low 80's.
 

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Another thing it could be is that the fan clutch is weak and while it may be spinning, it isn't locked up allowing it to spin at full speed (4,000 RPM) to pull cooler air through the radiator.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Just looked at your pictures and the write-up. WOW! Outstanding. Makes that job look like a piece of cake. :woot: :thumb:
 

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I've never seen a procedure on testing the water pump impeller.

But if you decide to pull yours off, here's a "How to". Bismic supplied me with the write-up, and I took the pics as I went along.
How to: Remove Waterpump
Great job. Very informative.
 
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