Go for it! I think it would be a good place. You just have to realize that your EGT's can get as high when your sensor is post turbo.
EBPV gut, and turbo pedestal upgrade. EGT question. with pics
I'm gutting my EBPV and replacing my pedestal with a non ebpv model.
While gutting the ebpv I was thinking, would it be a good location for an egt sending unit?
I've never installed an egt sensor, so I don't know how large they are, or what the recommended location is. I think I've heard of the DP being a good spot for one. But since I have a hole to fill in the EBPV, could I stick a sending unit in there?
Or is this location not going to provide an accurate reading?
While gutting the ebpv I was thinking, would it be a good location for an egt sending unit?
I've never installed an egt sensor, so I don't know how large they are, or what the recommended location is. I think I've heard of the DP being a good spot for one. But since I have a hole to fill in the EBPV, could I stick a sending unit in there?
Or is this location not going to provide an accurate reading?
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Pulled the actuator
My 2nd reason for wanting the non ebpv pedestal was clearance issues.
Are brass nuts strong enough? I was thinking about using some high temp anti seize on my original hardware.
I gutted the pedestal and will proceed to seal it up. I'll use the saved money for gauges. I plan on adding about 6:crazy:
Now that I have this apart, I just might grind it up and seal the oil passages. I would leave the solenoid installed, and only fill the feed and drain holes visible in the actuator cavity.
Any thought on that approach?
My 2nd reason for wanting the non ebpv pedestal was clearance issues.
Are brass nuts strong enough? I was thinking about using some high temp anti seize on my original hardware.
I gutted the pedestal and will proceed to seal it up. I'll use the saved money for gauges. I plan on adding about 6:crazy:
Now that I have this apart, I just might grind it up and seal the oil passages. I would leave the solenoid installed, and only fill the feed and drain holes visible in the actuator cavity.
Any thought on that approach?
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Ok, lesson learned. :doh:
Look before you leap. and in this case I should have looked further into the actuator cavity
There are more than 2 oil passages in there. At the end of the cylinder opposite the snap ring there is a deep channel that opens up to the turbo drain passage.
Now I have 2 choices, putty/epoxy/jb-weld, or go have my brother weld it right.
So since these are all zero pressure drain passages, do you think a JB-weld type product would work? Something like PC putty for metal or the high temp version?
My brother brings up a few small "family" issues, but it's doable.
Look before you leap. and in this case I should have looked further into the actuator cavity
There are more than 2 oil passages in there. At the end of the cylinder opposite the snap ring there is a deep channel that opens up to the turbo drain passage.
Now I have 2 choices, putty/epoxy/jb-weld, or go have my brother weld it right.
So since these are all zero pressure drain passages, do you think a JB-weld type product would work? Something like PC putty for metal or the high temp version?
My brother brings up a few small "family" issues, but it's doable.
YES :thumb:
The turbo needs oil for sure, but it doesn't get it from the EBPV actuator cavity.
On the snap side of the cavity there are 2 ports, one is for incoming pressurized oil, and the one on the bottom of the cavity is for drain back when the EBPV is de-energized. Then there is the trough typy cavity at the rear of the ebpv cavity, I can only guess at what this one is for. The trough cavity exposes the drain back from the turbo. I don't know why it would be open to the plunger side of the EBPV, which is not sealed. This explains all the crusty oil build up on the shaft of the plunger, and then also all along that side of the turbo pedestal.
So some one please slap me if I got all this wrongunish2:
I'm pretty sure I'm ok to seal all these up and not affect the turbo oil flow. At any rate, it's to late to turn back now. I'm going to putty up these holes and if it turns out I'm wrong, I'll buy a new pedestal :dunno:
The turbo needs oil for sure, but it doesn't get it from the EBPV actuator cavity.
On the snap side of the cavity there are 2 ports, one is for incoming pressurized oil, and the one on the bottom of the cavity is for drain back when the EBPV is de-energized. Then there is the trough typy cavity at the rear of the ebpv cavity, I can only guess at what this one is for. The trough cavity exposes the drain back from the turbo. I don't know why it would be open to the plunger side of the EBPV, which is not sealed. This explains all the crusty oil build up on the shaft of the plunger, and then also all along that side of the turbo pedestal.
So some one please slap me if I got all this wrong
unish2:I'm pretty sure I'm ok to seal all these up and not affect the turbo oil flow. At any rate, it's to late to turn back now. I'm going to putty up these holes and if it turns out I'm wrong, I'll buy a new pedestal :dunno:
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All done with EBPV actuator
OK here is the final picture, you'll have to excuse my liberal application of PC Fahrenheit. I didn't want to have to redo it. :hehe:
So..... here ya go. Who wants to start the count down to failure clock?
I personally think I'll be good to go, I've used this stuff before.
OK here is the final picture, you'll have to excuse my liberal application of PC Fahrenheit. I didn't want to have to redo it. :hehe:
So..... here ya go. Who wants to start the count down to failure clock?
I personally think I'll be good to go, I've used this stuff before.
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