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Hey guys I am having some issues with my Early 99 7.3 and I was wondering if anyone has any info that could help me...

Drove it about a week or so ago then parked it, went out the other night to move it and it wouldn’t start, I had it plugged in all night and still nothing, no smoke out the tailpipe, wait to start light comes on, fuel bowl is full and the pump is working fine. Cps is good, unplugged ICP, checked fuel filter and air filter, oil level is good too.

I had my buddy plug in his scanner and it would power up but couldn’t get it to connect to the truck.

I am leanIng towards an electrical issue or PCM is bad, only thing I haven’t tried is an IDM which I have but it’s out of a 2002 7.3... not sure if it would work in mine.. thanks in advance, any help would be appreciated
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So first, YES your 02's IDM would work just fine.

Next, your buddies scan tool isn't up to the task, most aren't.

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If you're gonna keep & maintain the truck yourself I strongly suggest you get access to the special scanner software you need to do it.

To retrieve most of the codes you'll need to help and even do some testing look at the FORscan Lite or TorqueApp (you add an Android device and Blue Tooth Adapter for @ $30) OR the Windoze version with a USB adapter. I like this one for BT Android -> http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS/

Just a few years ago you needed to buy a professional scan tool because our trucks need to have a scanner with a Library containing both the Ford Proprietary AND the Diesel Specific codes in it. Add to that, our trucks are Not, specifically, OBD-II so the Generic scanners the Auto Parts Stores have are of little use to us. But today there are some very good App based tools, that are close to what the pro tools do, for fraction of the cost.


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The next question I would ask from your description is, How much Fuel is in the tank right now?

Go over all this stuff (I know your addressed some of it already)

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My usual No Start -

WTS Light? - do you get it when you first roll-on the key? (shows the computer is running)

Do you see cranking rpm on the Tach? Can you verify cranking rpm signal with a scanner of some sort? Do you have a spare CPS to try?

Is there fuel in the fuel bowl now? Does it refill after cranking? (open the drain lever to check) Look above the pass ft tire, you'll see a 3/8" metal tube, against the motor that ends there, it's the drain for the bowl (yellow lever you slide to the side). Get a cup, open the lever, drain the fuel bowl, look at the fuel, close the lever. Then, turn the key to the ON position (should hear the pump) for 15 secs. Drain the fuel bowl again, whaddya got?

Can you hear/feel the pump running (below the dr seat, against the framerail)

Could the fuel gauge be giving a bad reading? (Below 1/4 tank?)

Is it cranking fast enough? - it won't even TRY to start if cranking too slowly.

Is your truck "chipped"? If so, remove it as a Test.

You can unplug the ICP sensor, as a Test, so the PCM sets a default value for the IPR to run on (expect this to set a new "Low ICP" code, don't let that misdirect you after a scan).

Did you check the plug and sheet metal nut going to the IPR? That nut can vibrate off and allow the solenoid going over the valve to slide around. The wires going to the IPR can get brittle, crack, and short together. Make sure the plug & wires look in good shape.

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Previous to this No Start, were you seeing the SES light come on? You can look at the no start list and try some stuff while you find what you need to do a proper scan but, in the end, what you need to do now to be able to find your problem is to scan for codes and monitor sensors....
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So first, YES your 02's IDM would work just fine.

Next, your buddies scan tool isn't up to the task, most aren't.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

If you're gonna keep & maintain the truck yourself I strongly suggest you get access to the special scanner software you need to do it.

To retrieve most of the codes you'll need to help and even do some testing look at the FORscan Lite or TorqueApp (you add an Android device and Blue Tooth Adapter for @ $30) OR the Windoze version with a USB adapter. I like this one for BT Android -> http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS/

Just a few years ago you needed to buy a professional scan tool because our trucks need to have a scanner with a Library containing both the Ford Proprietary AND the Diesel Specific codes in it. Add to that, our trucks are Not, specifically, OBD-II so the Generic scanners the Auto Parts Stores have are of little use to us. But today there are some very good App based tools, that are close to what the pro tools do, for fraction of the cost.


----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The next question I would ask from your description is, How much Fuel is in the tank right now?

Go over all this stuff (I know your addressed some of it already)

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

My usual No Start -

WTS Light? - do you get it when you first roll-on the key? (shows the computer is running)

Do you see cranking rpm on the Tach? Can you verify cranking rpm signal with a scanner of some sort? Do you have a spare CPS to try?

Is there fuel in the fuel bowl now? Does it refill after cranking? (open the drain lever to check) Look above the pass ft tire, you'll see a 3/8" metal tube, against the motor that ends there, it's the drain for the bowl (yellow lever you slide to the side). Get a cup, open the lever, drain the fuel bowl, look at the fuel, close the lever. Then, turn the key to the ON position (should hear the pump) for 15 secs. Drain the fuel bowl again, whaddya got?

Can you hear/feel the pump running (below the dr seat, against the framerail)

Could the fuel gauge be giving a bad reading? (Below 1/4 tank?)

Is it cranking fast enough? - it won't even TRY to start if cranking too slowly.

Is your truck "chipped"? If so, remove it as a Test.

You can unplug the ICP sensor, as a Test, so the PCM sets a default value for the IPR to run on (expect this to set a new "Low ICP" code, don't let that misdirect you after a scan).

Did you check the plug and sheet metal nut going to the IPR? That nut can vibrate off and allow the solenoid going over the valve to slide around. The wires going to the IPR can get brittle, crack, and short together. Make sure the plug & wires look in good shape.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Previous to this No Start, were you seeing the SES light come on? You can look at the no start list and try some stuff while you find what you need to do a proper scan but, in the end, what you need to do now to be able to find your problem is to scan for codes and monitor sensors....
So, this weekend I started by plugging the truck in because the glow plugs haven’t worked for a year or so now and I just got 8 new motorcraft ones so I was going to bring it in to replace them but now I have to get it running first haha. Grid heater was on for over 24hrs and it still wouldn’t start so I first
Checked...

- tach comes up to about 400rpm when cranking
-fuel bowl fills right up right after it’s drained with just 1 cycle of the key
-wts light comes on and off like normal
-unplugged icp
-checked for other random broken wires and/or unplugged connectors
- removed my hydra programmer
Tomorrow I’ll put a jug of fuel in it but I’ve never had an issue with under 1/4 tank yet, I can run it down below the empty line, as of right now I’m at 1/4 though
I brought a Mac tools scanner home from work today and tried it... it connected and said I had no active codes but it’s not a live data scanner like I need... just wanted to make sure my obd2 port was working properly and my pcm wasn’t the issue.

While I was cranking I had a charger on it and I have brand new batteries in it, it cranks plenty fast and I haven’t come close running it dead so I know that’s not a problem

I haven’t checked the nut on the ipr so I will do that and get back to you.

I ordered that ELM327 forscan obd2 scanner for iOS Android and windows as I have an iPhone, it looks identical to the one you recommended but it won’t be in until Friday so I guess I’ll just tie up loose ends until then..

only question I have left is I was wondering if you think the problem would be with the pcm... from what I have read it probably wouldn’t be the cause since the wts light comes on but I’m not an expert by any means.

thanks a lot for your help... I would be a lot worst off if guys like you weren’t here to point me in the right direction... !!
 

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I agree with the thought that, if the PCM were the cause, you'd likely not see that WTS.

With both "no smoke from the tailpipe" and being at 1/4 tank, putting fuel in is the next best step (refilling the bowl is Not a test for getting full pressure). Plus it's a Free Test, you're gonna need more fuel sooner or later ;)

Look at the IPR nut And, closely at the IPR plug/wires when you do.

That MAC scanner won't give you ICP pressure and IPR % from those sensors?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ya I definitely will be putting fuel in it today... I checked the ipr nut and it wasn’t loose at all and no visible breaks in the wire from a quick look over.. the scanner isn’t a real expensive one, just for codes... hopefully the forscan one will be a better suit to my problems haha
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So I replaced the idm and nothing still, never got a chance to run down and put fuel it in but that will be next
 

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so a day later, I ran down and put 5 gallons of fuel in it, then pulled the Allen key plug on the top of the hpop, the oil level was about an inch down from the top and from what I’m told it should be right to the top. So I put about 400 ml give or take in it with a syringe until it was full then put the plug back in and cranked it. Still no start and no smoke out the pipe. One of the diesel mechanics from work said to take off the oil lines that feed to the head to see if they piss oil out when cranking to see if the pump is putting out a good amount of oil (since 600psi is called for it should figuratively explode out from the lines is what I can come up with) other then that I am out of ideas until the scanner comes in the mail.
 

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Actually 1" down from the top is completely full (there's a stand pipe inside, just like the back of your toilet, that drains-away any oil above it and it sits about 1" down)

I would wait for the ability to read the HiPres Oil sensors (IPR & ICP) before taking an oil line off, why make such a mess when the scanner will check all sorts of stuff ;)
 

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So... I got the scanner today, came home from work and plugged it into my car just because it was in the garage and i wanted to see if it worked. It took a bit to connect but I got it to read data and clear codes on my car.

Later went to plug it into my 7.3 and I couldn’t get it to connect for the life of me. I had it connect once for about a minute to another scanner app besides forscan lite called dash command, but it wouldn’t read any data or do anything really then disconnected on me.

while I was messing with it the wait to start light came on and off as per usual, I could hear the fuel pump priming then kicking off after a few seconds as it should. I don’t thing my pcm is the issue but I am wondering if it could be a body ground issue possibly. Tomorrow I’m going to remove and clean them all to rule it out but I am scratching my head now. I think it has to be an electrical issue causing all this.

Only other thing I can come up with is when I bought my truck the windshield was cracked badly and it did leak just a little bit, enough to have some minor moisture on the dash. Then later this summer I was experiencing some chatter from the relays under the dash when I would shut the truck off, it actually shut off on me once or twice but fired right back up on me right after. I did some reading and figured my gem module was going bad but it never really acted up on me since then so I never really did anything about it but I wonder if that also could be contributing.

Either way I am thinking it has to be electrical related whether it’s a broken wire or something else I’m not sure but it’s driving me up the wall and I have no idea how to diag it.
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So... I got the scanner today, came home from work and plugged it into my car just because it was in the garage and i wanted to see if it worked. It took a bit to connect but I got it to read data and clear codes on my car.

Later went to plug it into my 7.3 and I couldn’t get it to connect for the life of me. I had it connect once for about a minute to another scanner app besides forscan lite called dash command, but it wouldn’t read any data or do anything really then disconnected on me.
You might well have a connection issue, look carefully at the connector.

Is your car a Ford too? ForScan is kinda tailored to Fords but, for your truck it has to be configured properly to get a full scan. Look at the link in my first post and read-up on ForScan. I would also suggest you get TorqueApp (I mean, 5 bucks, why not?) as I actually like it better, because of its interface, for watching the sensors (ForScan does a better job with everything else though)
 
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