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Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
Here is a picture of the 1/4" piece of steel with measurements and bend angle. I fabbed up and welded to the frame to fit the the 2008 track to 1999 frame.

I will do a solid works model of it and post the 2D drawing of it later if anyone would like it.

It is 2-3/4" wide with a 50 degree bend in it.

This edit is to say that after some input from others and more research. A 2005 track bar may have bolted up to my chassis with the need for the add on welded piece? But not sure it would take the aftermarket adjustable track bar my new front end came with.
 

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Awesome write up so far! looking forward to finished product plus this thread will help a ton of people out. Hopefully admins can make this a sticky once its done.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Thanks Justin - I would need to go back through it and edit out all my ranting and self embellishing first. LOL
 

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Awesome write up so far! looking forward to finished product plus this thread will help a ton of people out. Hopefully admins can make this a sticky once its done.
Agreed... good detail. Keep it coming.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
So with the track bar mount mounting finished, I stood back and took it all in. Partly being glad I had got this far and to go other everything that was done to see if I had forgotten something. That will be easier to do before I put the front axle under the truck.

I realized that if I removed the bumper I could leave the tires on the front axle and just roll it under the chassis and body.

I also decided to double check all the bolts I had installed to make sure I had not missed tightening any of them - found three needing to be torqued.

Next I looked hard and long at the front hard brake lines on my truck and the pictures of the 2008 chassis before I took it all apart. On the 1999 2WD the brake lines come out around the back of the spring mounts while on the 2008 they come out in front of the spring mounts.

But I determined it was a catch 22 that situation in that to be able to place the flex lines correctly on the chassis I needed the calipers in position. While working on the lines it would be easier to not have the axle in the way - sometimes the easiest way is not the best.

Speaking of the axle being in the way I concluded that having putting the steering gear box in first would be a lot easier to not work around the front axle. So I decided it was time to put the next thing on the truck - my new rebuilt RED HEAD 2008 steering gear box.

Old original lines were still on the pump to control draining of fluid.

I had already drilled out the three mounting holes in the chassis for the 2008's larger 14mm bolts so I was ready to push it up and bolt it on. It came tested from Red Head which meant it was full of fluid so as soon as I got it bolted into place I also attached the two power steering "new" lines to it to control the fluid from draining out of it.

Side note to put the pitman arm on the steering gear I used an antique wrench I have - it is sort of a cool tool.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
More picture for the above book - - - Sorry for taking you all the way down the rabbit hole of my thought processes - but someone may want to know way I choose to do things in the order I did.
 

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Discussion Starter #31 (Edited)
Once I got it close to where it belonged I worked on lining up the radius arms to their mounts and got the factory 2008 mounting bolts lined up and in.

Then I worked on attaching the adjustable track bar that came with the front end to the mounting bracket. This took a little more work as sliding the front end sideways was some work.

NOTE: my lovely wife help with getting the front axle in place and with getting all three mounting bolts into the chassis!!

Once we had the front axle mounted in the chassis, so to speak, I removed the tires and set the axle on a pair of smaller jack stands I have.

And just looked at it under the truck, this has been in the planning for three years remember!

I removed the brakes from the axle also.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
With the axle bolted in place I installed the drivers side stock front spring that came with the 2008 stuff. I jacked u[ that side of the axle until the chassis came up off the jack stand it had been resting on all this time, by about an inch. Then I measured from the center of the front hub to the bottom of the wheel well opening. It measured in at 24 1/4" of ride height, the 6" lift 2WD measurement was 27 3/4".

So I decided to go with a 4.5" lift set of ICON springs and shocks and got them order. I spent months looking into lift kits parts before ever starting this work.

I have planned along to put in new calipers and pads on the axle. How ever I was not sure about new rotors, wanted to check out the ones that came with the axle first.

After I removed them I took and fiber cleaning wheel to them both. I discovered that after I had somewhat cleaned both sides of them both they looked almost new under the surface rust. They had no grooving/lines in them nor did they have any hot spot marks.

So after picking up rebuilt caliper and new pads I installed the rotors, calipers and pads on the axles. The calipers and pads I picked up at a local O'rielly's - the calipers came with new mounting/slider hardware on them.

Once I got them installed I reinstalled the old flex lines to start working out the brake lines for the front end. I had to drill two holes each to attach them to the chassis. One for the bent locking lug and one for a self threading metal bolt.

*** On the drivers side I figured out the best/easiest way to modify the line was by adding a "brass T" at the back. The stock 99 2WD drivers side flex brake line has a "T" connector on it at the top. One line is from the master cylinder and the other is the hard line that goes over across the center support to the passenger side flex line.

I was able to find the correct 1/16" line - 3/8"24 pitch threaded "3 way (same) T" at a local NAPA store. I also picked up a 20" piece of 1/16" brake line with the same 3/8" 24 pitch thread. I will say that it would have been MUCH EASIER to put these three lines together before putting the spring mount on the chassis. BUT then I would not have been really sure where to put the bend in the front of the added 20" piece of line.

I ended up bending the 20" piece of 1/16" hard line first to go up from the top of the flex line and back down the top of the chassis. It needed a couple of bends to go around the spring/shock mount to the back were the original two hard lines joined the original 1999 flex line. This took a few fitments and adjustments to the bends to get it so all three lines lined up with the "T" union as needed. It was a tedious process that took over an hour for the drivers side.
 

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Discussion Starter #34 (Edited)
I changed direction and worked on the power steering and hydro boost system for a awhile.

First I installed the new steering shaft firewall boot seal I bought. Then I reinstalled the steering shaft that connects the steering column to the steering gear box. A couple of days earlier I had taken the bottom flex mount off the 2008 steering shaft and mounted it onto the 1999 steering shaft. This was needed to be able to attach it to the new Red Head steering gear. I order the like the pone I got with may front end, I should have ordered the one with the splined joint to match my shaft.

I had received the rebuilt hydro boost back and also had all new hydraulic lines to install, so I started this. Got the hydro boost in place, lined up and pushed through the fire wall. Installed the nuts on the inside and torqued them down. Then installed a new master cylinder and bolted it in place and reattached the stock hard brake lines to it.

Then I installed the new pressure line from the pump to the hydro boost - this is the stock line for the 1999 model. Then I installed the new pressure line from the hydro boost to the steering gear box - this is the stock line for the 2008 model. I bought and installed the stock 2008 model year line from the steering gear box to cooler.

I used the original stock 1999 overflow low pressure line from the hydro boost back to the top of the pump. As it was in really good shape and dealer had trouble getting one. Because the low pressure return line from the cooler to the pump is a two piece part from the dealer. It comes with the line that goes from the steering gear to the cooler, which I needed and bought the 2008 line. I made my own line out of 3/8" transmission cooler line.

So now I had all the steering and brake parts in the engine bay placed and or reinstalled. I end work for this day.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Thanks - I am thinking writing it up may be harder for me than doing it.


LOL - need to stop writing at night - I am sure I will be editing it in the morning.
 

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Just cool because you're doing a very desirable suspension upgrade AND doing 4x4. Gonna be a nice 7.3 when you're done!

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk
 

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GREAT JOB.....AND GREAT PHOTOS.....

KEEP THEM COMING.....:smile2:
 

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Discussion Starter #39
I need to get back to the write up, sorry for the absence.

I got to the point of wanting it done, and driving to a local 4x4 event for overlanding / camping off grid.

I was able to get it driving a week ago yesterday, but it took long days to do it. Now I am just a little burnt out from the job. I will finish the write up in detail for you.

Here is a little spoiler.

drove it 1.jpg
 

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IT CAME OUT NICE.....

IT LOOKS A LITTLE HIGH IN THE FRONT.....BUT WITH NEW SPRINGS.....IT WILL PROBABLY NEED A COUPLE OF WEEKS TO SETTLE.....

GOOD JOB.....
 
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