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Umm....VSS sensor? Since you mentioned your speedo being erradic, this is where I would look. Yes, this sensor is also a pretty important one for your tranny so make sure it's good at your rearend. It sends a lot of signals to different components such as a PCM and etc..

Originally, I was going to mention the neutral safety switch that is usually found on the gear selector of the transmission. Sorry I can't remember the formal name of them now but they basically take the information of what gear they are in (manually from the transmission) and send an electronic signal to the PCM and so on. So, when these go bad and again, start sending erradic signals to various components (the trans), then weird things happen. But usually, it will send codes to your O/D switch. I had a Windstar that would lose 3rd and 4th due to this switch being out. Once I would change the switch, everything would be good. They just sometimes go bad. I don't know why.

I am with Backwoods also and the other person that mentioned the 3rd brake light (good call). Stupid things like that that can just make you scratch your head.

Also, since you're plugging and unplugging your big connector repeatedly, I would take a mirror and check out the pins in the trans and make sure they're good and also check out the connector pins to make sure they're good as well. Maybe there's a reason that by you repeatedly unplugging this connector and replugging it in it fixes your issue for a short time. I don't know. Then, I would recommend some dielectric grease in the connector to aid with conductivity and keeping out moisture and so on.

Outside of that, I would hate to say that it sounds like the inevitable is starting to happen. And I don't need to tell you what that is. I'm crossing my fingers for ya.
 

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Well, I think we gave you a few suggestions.

You said the guy changed the starter solenoid and then lied about it. Then you said "It will come on once i go to fire it after its warm" but what are you talking about here? Are you referring to the "wait to start" light or other indicators?

When you say starter solenoid, are you talking about the solenoid on the starter itself or the starter solenoid relay up under the hood? If you're referring to the one under the hood, are you talking about the starter solenoid relay or the glow plug relay? You may not realize it but they look very similar if not exactly the same BUT ARE ACTUALLY 2 different solenoids meant for two different purposes. I'm not saying you are but are you "possibly" mistaking the glow plug relay solenoid with the starter solenoid relay? Or, are you referring to the solenoid on the starter itself?

Since the guy lied in the first place, I wouldn't trust what he said to begin with and DEFINATELY NOT now.


As for the neutral safety switch being replaced, just because it was replaced does NOT mean that it was installed CORRECTLY. They need to be adjusted CORRECTLY for them to work correctly. They are "supposed" to be installed with a special tool from Ford but you can install them without it if you're good enough.

But, keep in mind, if this switch is off on the alignment, it may be causing your issues. It might not be but it is a possibility.

Since you said that if you unplug it and then plug it back in and it runs fine, I would consider looking at that area further. But, maybe it has something to do with simply turning the truck off and then on again.

Since you said that the truck seems to run fine after unplugging and replugging the connector back in, I will "assume" that the trans itself is still ok and we're talking about an electrical issue but you never know.

But, I think we gave you a few ideas to check out. After some electrical checks, then you get into testing pressure and so on but basically, if you can't find anything wrong electrically, there really isn't much left to narrow it down to other than the transmission lines being clogged or restricted or having low transmission fluid levels. Outside of that, what's next? The transmission.

So, have you checked some or all of the things that we have mentioned so far? We mentioned quite a few of them to check.

Which ideas have you tried yet so far?
 

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Yes, if my memory of putting them on is correct, I believe they are in the neutral position. I think the Ford tool was just a straight flat tool that just had a couple metal tangs on it that stuck into the switch to prevent it from moving when you put it on.

But honestly, as long as you're careful, you don't "need" the tool. If you do indeed line up the points correctly, you should be ok as long as you have it in neutral as stated.

I think one thing to make sure of is that your cable and the shifter and everything is in good working order. Sure, over time there may be a smidgen of play but sometimes, there is so much play and wiggle to the shifter and cable and so on that it throws the actually position of the shifter on the transmission off and maybe in between gears. That's why we're concerned about if everything is in good working order. If everything seems pretty tight (twss), then that's good and can be eliminated as a potential issue.

If you can check your current switch already on the transmission, it is as simple as putting it in neutral and seeing if all the small divets align correctly. I believe they should all be in a straight line as you look at it. Obviously, if they don't line up in neutral, then you need to adjust it to get it in line.

If it's in line, then if it is indeed the switch, then the switch is bad. But we're just sort of guessing at this point. Again, it's just a suggestion of a place to start.
 

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The neutral safety switch has nothing to do with shift position.
Stroked,
I would like to ask why you feel that the neutral safety switch has nothing to do with shift position when that is essentially its whole reason for being there. The neutral safety switch doesn't control the shift position on the transmission because the shift lever and cable going to it actually changes this position however, the neutral safety switch actually does have a lot to do with the shift position.

It does send a signal to the PCM and other sensors verifying what gear the transmission is in.

I believe there are tests for this switch regarding transmission shifting issues. It's been awhile so perhaps I am wrong and if so, please correct me but I am fairly confident that although rare and unlikely, a neutral safety switch could indeed cause some issues.

Speaking from experience with a Windstar I owned (no not a Powerstroke but the same theory should apply), I had a couple neutral safety switches go out of that transmission. When it would go out, the transmission would not have anything but 1st & 2nd. Once the switch was changed, it would shift properly again.

Now, I will admit that maybe this was a sign that there was something more to the issue because after changing 2 switches, about 2 months later, the thing just up and quit moving. Eventually, the tranny would move a little bit in 1st and reverse and it was driveable to my storage place for it but that was it. After that, it just won't move and the tranny is out.

But, regardless, just simply changing the switch did indeed fix the issue at the time.

I'm merely stating that it does have "something" to do with signal sending and getting the right one would be important.

I am not saying that the issue at hand for this person is a switch but it is a possibility. Perhaps a small one but still one at that.
 

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On an E4OD its actually called the "range selector". Its only function is to enable or disable the start circuit. It has abosulutly nothing to do with the operation of the transmission. Infact if you jump the 2 wires in the trans harness from the range selector the truck will start in any gear.



Sent from my Galaxy S2 while my wife is yelling at me for being on my phone...
Stroked,
Although you are correct that you can start the vehicle if you jump the wires, your statement that this is "basically" it's only function is incorrect. Speaking as someone who's been a Ford Tech and went through diagnostic procedures, when you have certain codes and driveability issues, they do list this as something to diagnose and/or check.

Also, there are approximately 6 or 8 wires coming out of the connector (I think if memory serves me correctly now) and as such, what would the other 4-6 wires be for if only 2 were needed for what you're talking about?

My point is: there is more to the switch than just essentially being an "ignition lockout" switch to prevent the vehicle from starting.

It actually is intended to specify which gear the transmission is in. Why? I don't know other than all the fun electronics going on inside the vechicle but the switch has multiple functions according to the diagnostic service manual.

I'm basing this on my experience as a tech and if yours is different, please share and correct where I am misinterpreting the Ford diagnostic manual.
 
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