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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 96 OBS with the wonderful E4OD tranny. I am having two problems; :confused:

As the truck shifts from 2 to 3 , it seems like it half shifts and then hits third. The truck still feels like its in a gear (cant tell if the clutches are slipping) in the half shift... any thoughts?

From what Ive read this tranny has a "limp" mode. I have had times when my tranny goes into limp but I dont get any codes. The shift points drop way low and it just bogs, but never left me stranded. Now it is popping out of gear after going 60 mph for a while, but then if I shift it to neutral and back to drive a couple times it drops back in.

I bought the truck used but I'm not sure if its the original tranny. The torque converter did not have the drain plug and looked fresh. 175K on the truck. I changed the fluid and I figured it will get better or worse, but nothing changed with the issues I've been having. I did notice the shifter/electrical connector at the tyranny was recently replaced. Probably not OEM.

Thanks in advance for the help!
 

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When is does this, does your O/D light blink on/off? What rpm and speed range do the symptoms occur in? Is it at the point where the T/C begins to lock, or before that?
It could really be a variety of things. Hard to tell until more information is given. My gut is telling me low line pressure due to valve body or pump issues.

On edit: Do you have a trans temp guage?
 

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I was having goofy tranny issues with my '96, although they weren't as severe as yours but as strange as it sounds it was all related to a burned out 3rd brake light.

I know it sounds crazy. When I was searching the various forums last year for possible solutions to my shifting issues, I spotted this fix. I wasn't even aware that my light was out. When I replaced the bulb, I just shook my head thinking that there was no way this was going to matter.

I'll be dipped in... it worked.

Don't know why or how. Don't care.

Anyway, easy to check and cheap to fix. Your results may vary;)

Tom
 

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Third brake light is wired into the same circuit that controls torque convertor lock/unlock. If the bulb is burnt, the circuit is broken and the t.c. will not lockup.
Doesn't sound like the issue the o.p. is having, but it's worth a shot.
 

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I have a 96 OBS with the wonderful E4OD tranny. I am having two problems; :confused:

As the truck shifts from 2 to 3 , it seems like it half shifts and then hits third. The truck still feels like its in a gear (cant tell if the clutches are slipping) in the half shift... any thoughts?

From what Ive read this tranny has a "limp" mode. I have had times when my tranny goes into limp but I dont get any codes. The shift points drop way low and it just bogs, but never left me stranded. Now it is popping out of gear after going 60 mph for a while, but then if I shift it to neutral and back to drive a couple times it drops back in.

I bought the truck used but I'm not sure if its the original tranny. The torque converter did not have the drain plug and looked fresh. 175K on the truck. I changed the fluid and I figured it will get better or worse, but nothing changed with the issues I've been having. I did notice the shifter/electrical connector at the tyranny was recently replaced. Probably not OEM.

Thanks in advance for the help!
Sounds like typical e4OD shift strategy on stock programming to me. These trannies naturally short shift and lock their tc's up a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
More info

Today she slipped out of overdrive and into what seemed like a slipping 3rd. The o/d light sometimes comes on and sometimes does not. A couple drops into neutral and she drops back into O/D. There have been times when shes drops totally out of gear, I have pulled over, shut down the truck, and unplugged the connector at the shift linkage and plugged it back in and shes fine. I have totally cleaned the connector, so it should be making good contact. I also noticed my speedo bouncing a fine amount, maybe a couple miles an hour. I cant imagine that would be enough to cause this. My big concern id for my rear diff. She shifts hard a lot.

I Have a few other things that may be part of the problem. don't know.

I have noticed that on the cold mornings now I don't get a wait to start light. I already disconnected the fuel bowl heater and my fuse is good. Once it warms up the wait to start light starts working. PCM?

Uggh........
 

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Umm....VSS sensor? Since you mentioned your speedo being erradic, this is where I would look. Yes, this sensor is also a pretty important one for your tranny so make sure it's good at your rearend. It sends a lot of signals to different components such as a PCM and etc..

Originally, I was going to mention the neutral safety switch that is usually found on the gear selector of the transmission. Sorry I can't remember the formal name of them now but they basically take the information of what gear they are in (manually from the transmission) and send an electronic signal to the PCM and so on. So, when these go bad and again, start sending erradic signals to various components (the trans), then weird things happen. But usually, it will send codes to your O/D switch. I had a Windstar that would lose 3rd and 4th due to this switch being out. Once I would change the switch, everything would be good. They just sometimes go bad. I don't know why.

I am with Backwoods also and the other person that mentioned the 3rd brake light (good call). Stupid things like that that can just make you scratch your head.

Also, since you're plugging and unplugging your big connector repeatedly, I would take a mirror and check out the pins in the trans and make sure they're good and also check out the connector pins to make sure they're good as well. Maybe there's a reason that by you repeatedly unplugging this connector and replugging it in it fixes your issue for a short time. I don't know. Then, I would recommend some dielectric grease in the connector to aid with conductivity and keeping out moisture and so on.

Outside of that, I would hate to say that it sounds like the inevitable is starting to happen. And I don't need to tell you what that is. I'm crossing my fingers for ya.
 

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Today she slipped out of overdrive and into what seemed like a slipping 3rd. The o/d light sometimes comes on and sometimes does not. A couple drops into neutral and she drops back into O/D. There have been times when shes drops totally out of gear, I have pulled over, shut down the truck, and unplugged the connector at the shift linkage and plugged it back in and shes fine. I have totally cleaned the connector, so it should be making good contact. I also noticed my speedo bouncing a fine amount, maybe a couple miles an hour. I cant imagine that would be enough to cause this. My big concern id for my rear diff. She shifts hard a lot.

I Have a few other things that may be part of the problem. don't know.

I have noticed that on the cold mornings now I don't get a wait to start light. I already disconnected the fuel bowl heater and my fuse is good. Once it warms up the wait to start light starts working. PCM?

Uggh........

Ah, in that case...

Since the speedo is bouncing, seems like VSS. Maybe even the range selector is out of whack??
 

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Discussion Starter #11
She always seems to act up when just crusing. About the neutral safty switch; when i bought the truck, took it for a test drive and as i remember it seems like it shifted much better. Then tbe guy called me am said the truck wouldn't start and needed a starter solinoid. The solinoid is original on the truck, not sure why he lied. I did notice that the neutral safety had been changed. Probably some junk from autozone or similar. Now my no start has disappeared. It will come on once i go to fire it after its warm. I have gone through and disconnected the fuel heater. No blown fuses.

I also found that, if she starts limping or slipz out of gear, i can pull over shut it down, unplug the connector at the neutral safety switch and plug it back it, the truck will shift fine. I have cleaned the plug and checked the pins.

Hopefully this gets me closer to a fix. Thanks guys!
 

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Mine jumps out of gear under heavy acceleration when going under 30 or so mph what does that relate to?
 

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seems like the shifter adjustment might be off ^
 

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Ok we'll I've got a new shift cable neutral safety sensor and VSS goin on soon
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Sorry but im going to bump this, money is tight and i just started a company. Im new to diesel too, but wish i would have not wasted so much of my life on gassers. I know e4od problems are all over the map but anyone have any thoughts on where i should start. I hate to just throw a tranny in if mines fine. It seems like electrical, but im not sure where to even start .

Thanks. :D
 

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Well, I think we gave you a few suggestions.

You said the guy changed the starter solenoid and then lied about it. Then you said "It will come on once i go to fire it after its warm" but what are you talking about here? Are you referring to the "wait to start" light or other indicators?

When you say starter solenoid, are you talking about the solenoid on the starter itself or the starter solenoid relay up under the hood? If you're referring to the one under the hood, are you talking about the starter solenoid relay or the glow plug relay? You may not realize it but they look very similar if not exactly the same BUT ARE ACTUALLY 2 different solenoids meant for two different purposes. I'm not saying you are but are you "possibly" mistaking the glow plug relay solenoid with the starter solenoid relay? Or, are you referring to the solenoid on the starter itself?

Since the guy lied in the first place, I wouldn't trust what he said to begin with and DEFINATELY NOT now.


As for the neutral safety switch being replaced, just because it was replaced does NOT mean that it was installed CORRECTLY. They need to be adjusted CORRECTLY for them to work correctly. They are "supposed" to be installed with a special tool from Ford but you can install them without it if you're good enough.

But, keep in mind, if this switch is off on the alignment, it may be causing your issues. It might not be but it is a possibility.

Since you said that if you unplug it and then plug it back in and it runs fine, I would consider looking at that area further. But, maybe it has something to do with simply turning the truck off and then on again.

Since you said that the truck seems to run fine after unplugging and replugging the connector back in, I will "assume" that the trans itself is still ok and we're talking about an electrical issue but you never know.

But, I think we gave you a few ideas to check out. After some electrical checks, then you get into testing pressure and so on but basically, if you can't find anything wrong electrically, there really isn't much left to narrow it down to other than the transmission lines being clogged or restricted or having low transmission fluid levels. Outside of that, what's next? The transmission.

So, have you checked some or all of the things that we have mentioned so far? We mentioned quite a few of them to check.

Which ideas have you tried yet so far?
 

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Well, I think we gave you a few suggestions.

You said the guy changed the starter solenoid and then lied about it. Then you said "It will come on once i go to fire it after its warm" but what are you talking about here? Are you referring to the "wait to start" light or other indicators?

When you say starter solenoid, are you talking about the solenoid on the starter itself or the starter solenoid relay up under the hood? If you're referring to the one under the hood, are you talking about the starter solenoid relay or the glow plug relay? You may not realize it but they look very similar if not exactly the same BUT ARE ACTUALLY 2 different solenoids meant for two different purposes. I'm not saying you are but are you "possibly" mistaking the glow plug relay solenoid with the starter solenoid relay? Or, are you referring to the solenoid on the starter itself?

Since the guy lied in the first place, I wouldn't trust what he said to begin with and DEFINATELY NOT now.


As for the neutral safety switch being replaced, just because it was replaced does NOT mean that it was installed CORRECTLY. They need to be adjusted CORRECTLY for them to work correctly. They are "supposed" to be installed with a special tool from Ford but you can install them without it if you're good enough.

But, keep in mind, if this switch is off on the alignment, it may be causing your issues. It might not be but it is a possibility.

Since you said that if you unplug it and then plug it back in and it runs fine, I would consider looking at that area further. But, maybe it has something to do with simply turning the truck off and then on again.

Since you said that the truck seems to run fine after unplugging and replugging the connector back in, I will "assume" that the trans itself is still ok and we're talking about an electrical issue but you never know.

But, I think we gave you a few ideas to check out. After some electrical checks, then you get into testing pressure and so on but basically, if you can't find anything wrong electrically, there really isn't much left to narrow it down to other than the transmission lines being clogged or restricted or having low transmission fluid levels. Outside of that, what's next? The transmission.

So, have you checked some or all of the things that we have mentioned so far? We mentioned quite a few of them to check.

Which ideas have you tried yet so far?
Ok so I went to my dealership and asked about the proceedure for putting on the cable and safety switch and he said the switch comes from the factory in the neutral position so when putting it on make sure the trans is in the neutral position is this correct?
 

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Yes, if my memory of putting them on is correct, I believe they are in the neutral position. I think the Ford tool was just a straight flat tool that just had a couple metal tangs on it that stuck into the switch to prevent it from moving when you put it on.

But honestly, as long as you're careful, you don't "need" the tool. If you do indeed line up the points correctly, you should be ok as long as you have it in neutral as stated.

I think one thing to make sure of is that your cable and the shifter and everything is in good working order. Sure, over time there may be a smidgen of play but sometimes, there is so much play and wiggle to the shifter and cable and so on that it throws the actually position of the shifter on the transmission off and maybe in between gears. That's why we're concerned about if everything is in good working order. If everything seems pretty tight (twss), then that's good and can be eliminated as a potential issue.

If you can check your current switch already on the transmission, it is as simple as putting it in neutral and seeing if all the small divets align correctly. I believe they should all be in a straight line as you look at it. Obviously, if they don't line up in neutral, then you need to adjust it to get it in line.

If it's in line, then if it is indeed the switch, then the switch is bad. But we're just sort of guessing at this point. Again, it's just a suggestion of a place to start.
 

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I have a 96 OBS with the wonderful E4OD tranny. I am having two problems; :confused:

As the truck shifts from 2 to 3 , it seems like it half shifts and then hits third. The truck still feels like its in a gear (cant tell if the clutches are slipping) in the half shift... any thoughts?

From what Ive read this tranny has a "limp" mode. I have had times when my tranny goes into limp but I dont get any codes. The shift points drop way low and it just bogs, but never left me stranded. Now it is popping out of gear after going 60 mph for a while, but then if I shift it to neutral and back to drive a couple times it drops back in.

I bought the truck used but I'm not sure if its the original tranny. The torque converter did not have the drain plug and looked fresh. 175K on the truck. I changed the fluid and I figured it will get better or worse, but nothing changed with the issues I've been having. I did notice the shifter/electrical connector at the tyranny was recently replaced. Probably not OEM.

Thanks in advance for the help!
What makes you think it is "popping" in and out of gear?? You will have TC lock and unlock in 3rd and 4th gears which will feel like extra shifts. Limp mode will have your od light flashing on the shift leaver. Unplugging the connector will not fix the issue, the E4od is completely pcm controlled. The neutral safety switch has nothing to do with shift position.

The most common cause of shifting issues is caused by a bad solenoid in the solenoid pack. The vss can also cause some of these issues also, replacing takes less than 5mins and like $20.

Take your truck to a reputable tranny shop and have it scanned for codes, then report back.


Sent from my Galaxy S2 while my wife is yelling at me for being on my phone...
 

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The neutral safety switch has nothing to do with shift position.
Stroked,
I would like to ask why you feel that the neutral safety switch has nothing to do with shift position when that is essentially its whole reason for being there. The neutral safety switch doesn't control the shift position on the transmission because the shift lever and cable going to it actually changes this position however, the neutral safety switch actually does have a lot to do with the shift position.

It does send a signal to the PCM and other sensors verifying what gear the transmission is in.

I believe there are tests for this switch regarding transmission shifting issues. It's been awhile so perhaps I am wrong and if so, please correct me but I am fairly confident that although rare and unlikely, a neutral safety switch could indeed cause some issues.

Speaking from experience with a Windstar I owned (no not a Powerstroke but the same theory should apply), I had a couple neutral safety switches go out of that transmission. When it would go out, the transmission would not have anything but 1st & 2nd. Once the switch was changed, it would shift properly again.

Now, I will admit that maybe this was a sign that there was something more to the issue because after changing 2 switches, about 2 months later, the thing just up and quit moving. Eventually, the tranny would move a little bit in 1st and reverse and it was driveable to my storage place for it but that was it. After that, it just won't move and the tranny is out.

But, regardless, just simply changing the switch did indeed fix the issue at the time.

I'm merely stating that it does have "something" to do with signal sending and getting the right one would be important.

I am not saying that the issue at hand for this person is a switch but it is a possibility. Perhaps a small one but still one at that.
 
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