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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Driver's side works fine. Passenger side motor doesn't move. I bought a brand new motor and it doesn't move either.

I measured signals with volt meter and saw something like (1,2,3,4,NC,6): 0V, 0.3V, 4.7V, 0V, NC, 5V - The numbers are right but I'm not sure I'm recalling the positions correctly.

So if it's not the motor and it's unlikely the connector or wiring is bad then the issue is probably the dash control module?

What's the bench procedure for testing the motor?

Rectangle Font Parallel Slope Pattern
 

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06 6.0 drw 635 rwhp (retired) 08 KR build in progress
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I don’t recall if there is a recalibration procedure to try on these trucks. I’ll look on shopkey when I get a minute. I have one on my truck that’s always going crazy, messed with my REW measurements when trying to set up my dsp for sound system.
 

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06 6.0 drw 635 rwhp (retired) 08 KR build in progress
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I wish shopkey was easier to link to, there’s a few checks involving resistance and adding fused power to force movement. Looks like you should have 12v on one to move it
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I wish shopkey was easier to link to, there’s a few checks involving resistance and adding fused power to force movement. Looks like you should have 12v on one to move it
I agree especially regarding the 12V. I also wish the driver's side was easier to access then I could compare driver vs passenger harness. Well, the truck lives in Las Vegas, NV so it's so rare to need heat I manually moved the passenger blend arm to coldest position so the passenger side isn't fighting the MAX A/C.
 

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Power on the motor wires, reverse polarity to change direction
Be aware that the motor can break the gears if you allow it to force the end stops
Also if the air door is difficult to move, the motor will draw too much current and the system will stop trying to move the motor
Could see if the motor will run with the actuator arm disconnected

The potentiometer gives position feedback to the controller -- you would measure ohms from terminal 4 to either 2 or 3 to check for position movement
There is a service procedure to get into test mode on the controls, but I forget how -- could look it up on the web
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Power on the motor wires, reverse polarity to change direction
Be aware that the motor can break the gears if you allow it to force the end stops
Also if the air door is difficult to move, the motor will draw too much current and the system will stop trying to move the motor
Could see if the motor will run with the actuator arm disconnected

The potentiometer gives position feedback to the controller -- you would measure ohms from terminal 4 to either 2 or 3 to check for position movement
There is a service procedure to get into test mode on the controls, but I forget how -- could look it up on the web
Good info...

The blend arm moves very easily. I moved it with a screwdriver and motor removed.

With motor not bolted in so I could view the gear I had harness connected and tried going from MIN to MAX back to MIN on temperature and it did not move.

Are motor power terminals 12V or 5V? It seems like a silly question but measuring all five wires on the connector I could only find voltages ranging from 0V to 5V.
 

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Terminal 1 and 6 on the posted diagram
Ye and Bn/Gn wires

I have not measured the voltage, but would suspect 12 volts - tho likely pulse width modulated, so that messes with most meters when measuring voltage
 
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