Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum banner

1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
542 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Just curious as to how you all have addressed the driveline when you lifted your truck. I'm having a hell of a time with takeoff shudder and vibrations at 25mph and 45mph. It seems like I'm the only one, as more and more people lift their trucks.

A little background... I'm at 8" front Rize 4-link and around 6" rear lift, using "traction-blocks" from OUO. It's a block with an incorporated traction bar. No axle wrap. The carrier drop is also their unit. It is fully adjustable from almost stock height to around 8" down. I'm also running an '04 carrier bearing because of the stiffer rubber. Reading on other forums, the 08's have been a real b!itch to dial in because of driveline shudder even on stock trucks with 5th wheels & campers. I think I'm one of the "lucky" ones.

I'm wondering how many of you who have lifted and have shimmed the carrier actually MEASURED any angles for your drivelines. I'm trying to set this up with the "3 degree max ujoint angle" rule and it's not working out. Are you guys just dropping the carrier and not worrying about the tcase ujoint angle at all? My pinion sits at 12 degrees up, and tcase at 6 degrees down (according to gravity, my angle finder, and the driveway). That leaves a 6 degree difference to be compensated for. Ideally, 2, 2, 2, for the 3 joints (tcase, carrier, pinion) but it doesnt work that way in practice because of length differences in the 2 sections of the driveshafts. If I just drop the carrier, I can soften a lot of the 25mph and 45mph vibes, but at the expense of the tcase ujoint which will sit at 6 degrees, and almost zeroing out the carrier and axles joint angles. Nothing cures the take-off shudder though. I need a stock truck to measure for reference, but I'm almost certain that from the factory, the trucks are set up at the 3 degree maximum at the tcase end. So everyone shimming MUST be way over that.


So I guess the question is... are you guys just shimming to make the driveshaft as straight as possible and not measuring angles?

Dana literature (note PDF pages 12 for max angle and rpm, and 14 for 2-piece driveshaft setup):
http://www2.dana.com/pdf/J3311-1-HVTSS.PDF

Links:
One Up Offroad Traction Blocks
One Up Offroad Drive Line Drop


Pics:


 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,129 Posts
no issues with shudder, but where did you get those bars?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,304 Posts
I shimmed mine about an inch with my 6"... Seemed to help out a bit... Still a slight vibration on firm acceleration but at less than 15 mph
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
From the start I have a little bit of vibration but other than that mine is fine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
542 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Update:

So today I got frustrated and just went against the Dana manual and all that "3 degrees" crap. Dropped the carrier down enough to make it almost a straight shot from the tcase to the pinion. Got rid of almost ALL of the 20mph and 40mph vibes that I had.

This left the angles at around 6.5 degrees for the tcase, and zero for the carrier and pinion joints. Its basically a one piece shaft except for the rubber carrier in the middle, and the upper ujoint taking 100% of the abuse.

Take off shudder is still there. Lasts for about 2 seconds from a dead stop. Probably between 2 and 4mph. I guess that one most people live with and just ignore it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
96 Posts
Just curious as to how you all have addressed the driveline when you lifted your truck. I'm having a hell of a time with takeoff shudder and vibrations at 25mph and 45mph. It seems like I'm the only one, as more and more people lift their trucks.

A little background... I'm at 8" front Rize 4-link and around 6" rear lift, using "traction-blocks" from OUO. It's a block with an incorporated traction bar. No axle wrap. The carrier drop is also their unit. It is fully adjustable from almost stock height to around 8" down. I'm also running an '04 carrier bearing because of the stiffer rubber. Reading on other forums, the 08's have been a real b!itch to dial in because of driveline shudder even on stock trucks with 5th wheels & campers. I think I'm one of the "lucky" ones.

I'm wondering how many of you who have lifted and have shimmed the carrier actually MEASURED any angles for your drivelines. I'm trying to set this up with the "3 degree max ujoint angle" rule and it's not working out. Are you guys just dropping the carrier and not worrying about the tcase ujoint angle at all? My pinion sits at 12 degrees up, and tcase at 6 degrees down (according to gravity, my angle finder, and the driveway). That leaves a 6 degree difference to be compensated for. Ideally, 2, 2, 2, for the 3 joints (tcase, carrier, pinion) but it doesnt work that way in practice because of length differences in the 2 sections of the driveshafts. If I just drop the carrier, I can soften a lot of the 25mph and 45mph vibes, but at the expense of the tcase ujoint which will sit at 6 degrees, and almost zeroing out the carrier and axles joint angles. Nothing cures the take-off shudder though. I need a stock truck to measure for reference, but I'm almost certain that from the factory, the trucks are set up at the 3 degree maximum at the tcase end. So everyone shimming MUST be way over that.


So I guess the question is... are you guys just shimming to make the driveshaft as straight as possible and not measuring angles?

Dana literature (note PDF pages 12 for max angle and rpm, and 14 for 2-piece driveshaft setup):
http://www2.dana.com/pdf/J3311-1-HVTSS.PDF

Links:
One Up Offroad Traction Blocks
One Up Offroad Drive Line Drop


Pics:


Not too many people knows about adding a "cv boot" to driveshafts. Mine is an 8" lift and had a huge vibration too. I did the shims, adjusments, and measurements....didn't work. My friend told me that he knows somebody that can ad cv boot and that's the only way to get rid of vibrations. Cost me $1000 but no more vibrations....no shims or anything. This is the only way and the right way of getting rid of that vibrations. I'll send u some pictures.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
542 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Not too many people knows about adding a "cv boot" to driveshafts. Mine is an 8" lift and had a huge vibration too. I did the shims, adjusments, and measurements....didn't work. My friend told me that he knows somebody that can ad cv boot and that's the only way to get rid of vibrations. Cost me $1000 but no more vibrations....no shims or anything. This is the only way and the right way of getting rid of that vibrations. I'll send u some pictures.
Finally! I'm not crazy! :woot: Looking forward to the pics. Where is the CV? Middle joint? Tcase end? Also, a true booted CV huh? Not a double cardan?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
73 Posts
The bars are part of the OUO Traction Block kit. Comes with the lift blocks, bars, ubolts, top plates, etc. Purchased through Truck Toyz Performance, in Texas.
Going to take my truck to Marty at TTP in McAllen, on or about the 19th this month, Great customer service and prompt response. How was your experience?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
542 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Going to take my truck to Marty at TTP in McAllen, on or about the 19th this month, Great customer service and prompt response. How was your experience?
Great! Nice to be working with guys that love what they do. Marty helped me pick everything out. I had the install done in a shop near me. :thumb:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
96 Posts
Finally! I'm not crazy! :woot: Looking forward to the pics. Where is the CV? Middle joint? Tcase end? Also, a true booted CV huh? Not a double cardan?
Here's the picture bud....BTW, I meant to say add a "CV Joint":doh: It's between the middle and rear shafts.
If you can't find anyone to do it for you let me know, maybe I can help.






 

·
Registered
Joined
·
542 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Here's the picture bud....BTW, I meant to say add a "CV Joint":doh: It's between the middle and rear shafts.
If you can't find anyone to do it for you let me know, maybe I can help.
Thanks for the pictures!! So that got rid of everything huh? Take off shudder and all? It's almost too good to be true. Been driving around for half the time I've owned the truck with that damn shudder.

I'm working with Dave at OUO, and he's sending out the cv-at-the-carrier style driveshaft. Can't wait to try it out!


I have a solid one piece drive shaft. I would suggest doing the same for all those that are lifted. :thumb:
I plan on doing 4.56 gears, and it was strongly recommended to me (by guys that really put their trucks to the test and hit the sand dunes with them) that the one piece shaft spinning at higher/highway speeds with those gears will eventually start to wobble and act like a big jump-rope.

I'm sure one-piece works in a lot of applications, but I wanted to try getting the two-piece to work first.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
725 Posts
I have a one piece with a CV & a drive shaft loop and I don't have any shudder what so ever. As long as your drive shaft is balanced properly it will never turn into a "jump rope." with any kind of gears. Sry I've owned 5 lifted trucks over the years and I've ran one piece drive shafts on all of them and never had one problem. :) And I've abused my trucks to the maxx.....


Thanks for the pictures!! So that got rid of everything huh? Take off shudder and all? It's almost too good to be true. Been driving around for half the time I've owned the truck with that damn shudder.

I'm working with Dave at OUO, and he's sending out the cv-at-the-carrier style driveshaft. Can't wait to try it out!




I plan on doing 4.56 gears, and it was strongly recommended to me (by guys that really put their trucks to the test and hit the sand dunes with them) that the one piece shaft spinning at higher/highway speeds with those gears will eventually start to wobble and act like a big jump-rope.

I'm sure one-piece works in a lot of applications, but I wanted to try getting the two-piece to work first.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
96 Posts
Thanks for the pictures!! So that got rid of everything huh? Take off shudder and all? It's almost too good to be true. Been driving around for half the time I've owned the truck with that damn shudder.

I'm working with Dave at OUO, and he's sending out the cv-at-the-carrier style driveshaft. Can't wait to try it out!




I plan on doing 4.56 gears, and it was strongly recommended to me (by guys that really put their trucks to the test and hit the sand dunes with them) that the one piece shaft spinning at higher/highway speeds with those gears will eventually start to wobble and act like a big jump-rope.

I'm sure one-piece works in a lot of applications, but I wanted to try getting the two-piece to work first.

100% no vibs. or shudder. :thumb: I've heard about the 1 piece shafts...some guys are using it but it wasn't recommended to me. There's a reason why factory made a 2 piece shaft so I'm keeping mine that way. One of my friends truck is lifted 4ft. high and he didn't like the one whole piece shaft....he is now using the 2pc w/cv joint with no problems at all. Trust me, you'll be happy. No more vibs....taking off, slow or fast speed....no more.:nod:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
280 Posts
1 pc driveshaft is the best. most everyone i know in central florida will run a 1 pc. i have had several lifted trucks up to 8" of lift and always got away with dropping the 2 pc down to get rid of shudder. anything over 8 i would recommend a 1 pc.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,129 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
307 Posts
100% no vibs. or shudder. :thumb: I've heard about the 1 piece shafts...some guys are using it but it wasn't recommended to me. There's a reason why factory made a 2 piece shaft so I'm keeping mine that way. One of my friends truck is lifted 4ft. high and he didn't like the one whole piece shaft....he is now using the 2pc w/cv joint with no problems at all. Trust me, you'll be happy. No more vibs....taking off, slow or fast speed....no more.:nod:

Did you just have the cv put on the factory shaft or a hole new one built
just wondering do you have a parts list to do this
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top