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Discussion Starter #1
I posted this problem down in the 99-03 section but figured it belonged up here.

I recently took out the 2.5" rear blocks and put 4" blocks in and immediately got driveline vibration starting around 60mph - the original replacement blocks were square. I then put tapered blocks in thinking that was the problem - still vibrates. I do not have a carrier bearing (Excursion). Any suggestions???:confused:
 

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did it get worse with the tapered blocks??? you might take the driveshaft out and have it rebalanced.
 

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I feel ya

I had the same problem with my 02 Ex. It was a bad ujoint at the axle. It was noticed when taken apart, wasn't sloppy, but when taken apart, one of the crosses were totally destroyed inside. Looks like it was without grease for awhile. I can see why though, they were the originals and I had 116000 on her when they were replaced. I also had the shaft rebalanced, just in case. Now there are no problems. Just a thought. I heard of bearings in the tcase going bad, pinion bearings going bad, but I figured I would start with the simple problem first. And it only cost me 45$ for the Spicer ujoints.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
the problem didn't get worse with the tapered blocks - probably about the same.

I'm wondering (if it is a ujoint) why it didn't surface until now - is that small of a lift all it takes?

who do I take the driveshaft to? are ujoints tough to replace (by myself)?
 

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the problem didn't get worse with the tapered blocks - probably about the same.

I'm wondering (if it is a ujoint) why it didn't surface until now - is that small of a lift all it takes?

who do I take the driveshaft to? are ujoints tough to replace (by myself)?
are you in florida?
 

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Drive lines (u-joints) have max working angles. When you max them out on heavy trucks like these you create a bind. A bind can be small and you will feel it as a vibration.

Changing the axle pinion angle only will not always fix the problem. You also need to look at the tail shaft drive line (u-joint) angle.

With out seeing it first hand and looking at the working angles I can't say for sure but I would look for a shop that understands drive lines and they should be able to fix you up and either re use your shaft or build you a new one with a CV head that will accept the larger working angle.



Hope this works.


Nor-Cal Nick
 

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I took mine in to get rebalanced because I did not like the fact i have that balancer hanging off the rear of my driveshaft. It is still there, but I just wanted to be sure, and I replaced my joints in about an hour, and a six pack of Bud. Easy stuff. The balancing was about $50.00, small price to pay for piece of mind.
The other guy is right too, all it takes is to be a dergree off and you just ruined a joint. Picky little things.
 

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I had issues with vibration too, I got underneath the truck and was messing with everything. I found it was as simple as the 4 bolts that bolt the U-joint to the transfer case were loose...well 2 were missing and 2 were loose. I tightened them down and replaced the 2 missing and it went away. I'm going to replace the u-joints soon because I don't know how much stress the took with that...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I'm thinking the vibration / drone is possibly my exhaust - it's at about 1750 rpm. I lean into the throtle a little while cruising at this rpm and it gets much worse - I let off a little and it subsides. Would this happen if it were a driveline vibration? I just don't know why it would have started ironically after I put the taller blocks in the rear.
 

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what's happening is you no longer have the proper angles and it will only noticeably vibrate under torque(load) to correct this you have to measure your rear shaft angles at the t-case and diff and the closer they are to the same the less vibration will be noticed what is actually happening is in 360 degrees of rotation the u-joint goes through 4 phases (when operating at an angle) during 2 phases it speed up the output shaft and on the other 2 it slows it down however when both angles are the same the oscillations cancel each other out this is not to say they have to be perfect but they have to be close.
 

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Replace your u-joints. I had a bad vibration after i lifted it. I messed with shimming my carrier berring for a couple days and replaced my u-joints and no more vibration.
 

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just go to your auto parts store. i would try to get spicer, but you could also get their highest quality and have a lifetime warrranty on them. i am going to get my last one today so i can replace mine to see if it helps. as for changing them. there is a tool to use, harbor frieght tools has it. its like a clamp i guess. or if you have a vise and are comfortable with beating them out with a hammer and socket it can be done that way too. i would go with the first route myself, only because i wouldnt want to damage the shaft. the go in the same way they come out.
 
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