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Discussion Starter #1
Going to try to remove the dpf today...What's the secret to removing it? A couple of areas look difficult, the front bracket that connect to the down pipe, the hangers and the DEF injector...Any help is appreciated.

Also installing the egr H&S blocker plates.

Thanks
 

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I haven't done mine yet but lots of folks here have. Let us know how it turns out and post your step by step process. :thumb:
 

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With a buddy you can have it out in about 30 mins. I've done it twice now, second time was much quicker as I knew were all the sensors were and how the plugs works. Urea injector is just 2 13mm nuts and it pulls out. Unplug all the connectors for the sensors instead of trying to remove them all. Also on the hangers instead of fighting with the rubber bushings, just unbolt all three hangers from the frame. Its much easier to slide the rubber hangers off with the DPF on the driveway with the help of some PB blaster. Get to the downpipe bolts from the top as the nuts are welded on. 15mm on those I think, you will need a couple extensions and a wobbly to get the top one. With a friend helping lower it out, its not bad at all. Have fun!
 

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It's out! Thanks guys for the input, you were defenitely right on...I have to stop for now hurricane or tropical storm on the way.

Will try to install new pipe once the storm clears...

Which sensor did you guys use for the egr delete reading... all I'm installing is the H&S delete plates...one has the bung for the sensor.

Hopefully all I have left is a couple of hours left to go.
 

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It's out! Thanks guys for the input, you were defenitely right on...I have to stop for now hurricane or tropical storm on the way.

Will try to install new pipe once the storm clears...

Which sensor did you guys use for the egr delete reading... all I'm installing is the H&S delete plates...one has the bung for the sensor.

Hopefully all I have left is a couple of hours left to go.
Take your pick of any of the 4-5 probes that are in the DPF. Just unplug the one originally for the EGR, and plug the one you screwed into the block-off plate into that port. Simple as that :D
 

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That's what I did, used the one from the EGR. Just wiped it off and good to go!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Take your pick of any of the 4-5 probes that are in the DPF. Just unplug the one originally for the EGR, and plug the one you screwed into the block-off plate into that port. Simple as that :D
Can the one originally on the EGR be moved to the block off plate, then put a plug where it was? Just curious.
 

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If your removing all of the EGR stuff off the motor, then go for it. If just installing the block-off plates, you will have an open hole you will need to find a plug for. Nothing going through it I don't think, but still don't want water and dirt to get in there if you have to put it back to stock.
 

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With a buddy you can have it out in about 30 mins. I've done it twice now, second time was much quicker as I knew were all the sensors were and how the plugs works. Urea injector is just 2 13mm nuts and it pulls out. Unplug all the connectors for the sensors instead of trying to remove them all. Also on the hangers instead of fighting with the rubber bushings, just unbolt all three hangers from the frame. Its much easier to slide the rubber hangers off with the DPF on the driveway with the help of some PB blaster. Get to the downpipe bolts from the top as the nuts are welded on. 15mm on those I think, you will need a couple extensions and a wobbly to get the top one. With a friend helping lower it out, its not bad at all. Have fun!

Bringing back an old thread as I am doing the dpf tomorrow. I loosened most of the bolts tonight and the exhaust system started to droop. So , a couple of questions:

I assume I start at the tail end. There is no unbolting the hanger by the tailpipes - they are welded. Any trick to getting this section of the pipe off?

I did undo the bolts on the pipe between the tailpipe section and the dpf. There were 3 on each side and I hammered out the studs. This section of pipe fell away.

I loosened the nuts on the outer part of the frame holding the DPF section.

I loosened the easier of the two (toward the center of the truck) nuts on the coupler from the downpipe. I have no idea how I am going to get at the one closer to the framerail. The post above says get at it from the top, but there is no room over the top of te frame. Any suggestions??? Once I get this one, the whole thing will come down.

One thing I did mess up was not unplugging all of the sensors and the def injector... I have to do that first tomorrow.

Any other tips would be greatly appreciated. Oh ... and 30 mins my ***!
 

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Bringing back an old thread as I am doing the dpf tomorrow. I loosened most of the bolts tonight and the exhaust system started to droop. So , a couple of questions:

I assume I start at the tail end. There is no unbolting the hanger by the tailpipes - they are welded. Any trick to getting this section of the pipe off?

I did undo the bolts on the pipe between the tailpipe section and the dpf. There were 3 on each side and I hammered out the studs. This section of pipe fell away.

I loosened the nuts on the outer part of the frame holding the DPF section.

I loosened the easier of the two (toward the center of the truck) nuts on the coupler from the downpipe. I have no idea how I am going to get at the one closer to the framerail. The post above says get at it from the top, but there is no room over the top of te frame. Any suggestions??? Once I get this one, the whole thing will come down.

One thing I did mess up was not unplugging all of the sensors and the def injector... I have to do that first tomorrow.

Any other tips would be greatly appreciated. Oh ... and 30 mins my ***!

Hahaha:rofl: glad to know I wasn't the only one who stumbled through it the first time... It's not as bad as it seems, although about 45 minutes into it I was getting irritated... In the end a few beers and deep breaths and it was easy.

You've got a good start. For the tail pipe... I took that off first, lube up the metal hangers that are welded to the section, wd40 works...I ended up using the dielectric grease that I put into the connectors because I forgot to bring some up to the shop that day. Once lubed, the hangers will pop right out. A ratchet strap also helps to pull it towards the tailgate and out of the rubber hanger.

Next part is the pain, undoing to the down pipe clamp. I ended up getting the one against the frame with a long a$$ extension, flex adapter, and a blood drained arm from reaching way up and around the pipe. Took some patience, a few scrapped buckles, and some cuss words but comes out fine...obviously the reverse order when outing the new exhaust on.

Then just as you already did, unbolt all the other hangers directly from the frame rail, don't worry about pulling the hangers out until it's off the truck, much easier. If you haven't done so already, double check that you've disconnected every connector from the DPF befor you attempt to drop. There's quite a few of them but better than ripping a probe or the def line out of the DPF.

If your by yourself, just lay on your back under the truck, support the DPF with your hands and knees and lift the bolts out of the frame. Then just roll it to your chest and off to your side, it's heavy but manageable.... Just don't smash your face or nuts.

From here it's all off, install the new exhaust starting at the downpipe and working back. Depends on what exhaust you have, you may have to play with it to get the tail section and axle dump..I think I had to put the axle dump on with the main section off or loosened, can't remember. I bolted all the hangers back up before installing the new exhaust, it was easier to hang that way then trying to line up the bolts. Again, lube up the bolt/studs before putting them into the rubber hangers, makes it much easier.
 
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Just don't smash your face or nuts.
I can't stress enough the importance of extensions and flex adaptors, they will make your life a ton easier on this install. Also that last bit of advice is key, you don't want that heavy a$$ exhaust falling on the boys. I soloed this install in about an hour and the worst part was the downpipe bolts and then heaving that sucker out from under the truck.
 
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For the flange bolts, I used 2 9" extensions and a knuckle and it was actually pretty easy to get at the bolt nearest the frame.

For dropping the dpf section, I used an egg crate with a piece of firewood to support the rear (heavy part) and pushed from the front until the front (flange part) was just resting on the transmission support bracket. I then lowered the rear to the ground on a piece of cardboard and pushed back from the front. It was really easy and I did not have to support any weight.

I then used dielectric grease in all of the plugs and sockets to cover the pins and holes in case I ever want to go back.

As for the dpf injector, I have no idea how to best protect it, so for now it is zip tied to the top of the rail. I am thinking of making a plasti-dip mold and covering the face so that crap cannot get in the orifice or mounting space.

The reinstall went pretty quick and with the black tip I got for the 5" FloPro, it looks awesome!

One thing - I am getting a lot of air noise at the tailpipe. A lot! I will take a video tomorrow. Is this normal? I have no idea what would be causing this.

I did get a CEL that had to do with egr, too. No idea what that would be and the truck did not reduce power. I cleared it and am interested to see if it will come back.

Finally, this is not I can name that tune in 2 notes.................. this took quite awhile and I move pretty quickly. I did not use air tools and I am sure that would have cut down on time, but not by much. All in all, the dp back uninstall/reinstall took 5 hours start to finish.
 

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The air noise is the vgt turbo in the ford trucks. We all have dubbed it the angry hair dryer... It is normal, but it sounds different than a cummins. Duramax trucks will do the same if you straight pipe them.
 

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As for the dpf injector, I have no idea how to best protect it, so for now it is zip tied to the top of the rail. I am thinking of making a plasti-dip mold and covering the face so that crap cannot get in the orifice or mounting /QUOTE]

Did you unbolt the injector plate from the DPF, the sorta diamond shape plate that the hoses connect into??? If so, you can just disconnect the sensor line and the DEF line. Tape them off and good.

As for the VGT noise at the tail pipe.... That was my favorite part. Especially with the windows down at a stop light, when they open and close you'll see some funny looks:rofl: people think it's about take off...
 

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RE: pdf - Yep - there were 2 13mm bolts that held it onto the exhaust - now, I have that flange zip tied to the top of the framerail. I have not decided whether to remove the dpf tank and plumbing - probably will not. So, I just need to cover the flange and orifice.

damn egr CEL came back this morning..... No idea what is causing that!

My diesel really stinks now. It is really wet due to rain though I will get back under the truck to make sure all of the coupler sleeves are really tight. At a light, or idling, it really stinks. lol
 

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that flange just unhooks from the two lines that go into it. I just left it bolted to the DPF, then just tagged and bagged the two lines like I did the rest of the sensor connectors.

it took me a few days to get used to the extra smell. now I don't know what I'd do if it wasn't there. I'll get the same thing at a stop every now and then, even with the windows up. just depends on what way the wind is blowing
 
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