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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'm doing my HG's and installing studs. I am also doing the upgraded STC fitting, the upgraded solid turbo oil feed line, the updated oil return from turbo, egr cooler delete, new oil cooler, and blue spring update. Is there anything else that i am missing. if so let me know. I have just about got the heads off, been working on it for a total of about 15 hours so far. Its not too bad, just alot of stuff to remove until you finally get to the root of the problem. I also had the 58 volt upgrade done to my FICM also, it was going bad so had it done. Also putting a coolant filtration system on it also.
 

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Yes it is more time consumeing than difficult. You may want to read Tuscany's thread on his project good info lots of tips and pics.
 

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Updated dummy plugs and standpipes.

Sent from my phone that somebody didn't help me get.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
yeah forgot to put that on there, doing both of those. had to do stand pipes because i screwed one of them up taking it out.
 

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No0o0o waste of money and time
haha i found out the hard way. however they were only like 30 bucks so atleast i didnt waste my life savings.
 

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Did you take pictures? HG's and studs are on my bullet proof to do list and I dont have a lift so I will probably attempting the same thing. Let us know how it turns out.
 

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Southend, the updated stand pipes come in the new head gasket sets. You will need to buy the updated dummy plugs though I got them through my cousin at ford for $12 and change a piece. The 6.4 banjos are worth the $15 in hardware and washers especially when you compare them to the 6.0 banjos side by side. The 6.0 are a lot more restrictive. Not saying you will see a power gain or better fuel pressure, bu when injectors are as expensive as they are in these trucks I want to make sure that they are getting sufficient fuel pressure.

Remember when doing these in cab if you don't want to jack the rear of the trans up or dent in your firewall than get the snap-on srd35 torque adapter tool. It's well worth the money. Also when removing the dog house on the left side valve cover there are 4 o-rings usually stuck to the valve cover, make sure you get all 4 of them off of the valve cover and re-insert them into the grooves on the underside of the dog house.

Also remember to make sure you pull your fuel rail plugs on the back of the heads and remember to put them back in the head before you drop the heads in. Torque is 18 ft/lbs.

Injectors are to be torqued to 31 ft/lbs. and don't forget that the rear of the right side head has a ground strap on it and the left side head has a 13mm bolt holding the up-pipe heat shield to it. Also do yourself a favor and order the 10oz arp ultra torque lube with brush you can't use to much of this stuff on the studs, washers and nuts.

If you have any questions feel free to ask. Check out my build thread link is in my signature.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Appreciate it tuscany. I have taken afew pics. Will try to post. It is not to bad of a job just a lot of little stuff. It has been fun though have learned alot.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using AutoGuide.Com Free App
 

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It is fun man I enjoyed the chit out of doing it to mine. Especially when I tried to start it and it fired right up and took it for a spin and nothing was missing or forgotten lol I fell in love all over again.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ok got the injectors and glow plugs out and the heads removed. Looks like the head had lifted on both sides. The tips of the injectors are a little carboned up, should i clean these with carb cleaner or dont mess with it.
 

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Set them in a tupperware container leaning against the sides with the tips at the bottom and fill it about 1/4 of the way up with injector cleaner that you would normally put in the fuel tank.
 

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With stock nozzles:pointlaugh:



:D


BTW Bryan, my machinist called.....both spare heads are cracked:doh:
but he couldn't tell me if they were surface cracks or the other "bad" ones.... Do you remeber the official term for the "bad" cracks in the heads?
Are they the exhaust valve cracks or something like that?
 
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