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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
just as the title says i would like to see if anyone has a compression tester i could barrow to check my truck out ... i dont see the point in buying 1 to test 1 cylinder 1 time.. so if you could help me out id be very grateful... and ill pay the shipping to and from for your troubles .. thanks pm me if you can help
 

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You may get better results if anyone knew where you were.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
i cant believe NO ONE has a compression tester they are willing to lend out.. this is crazy!! i thought this website was great for helping people... im starting to second guess!!!
 

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haha now NO OFFENSE but why would you think I'd lend out a $300 compression tester to a stranger on the internet? Second guess all you want, it isn't happening.
 

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Btw.......this forum is great for helping people. What problems are you having?

Sent from my phone that somebody didn't help me get.
 

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There are many members who would drive over and help you out if they were close enough but they won't just lend you high dollar equipment. I have driven 50 miles on a number of occasions to scan someones vehicle for free. I normally get a $100.00 for running a scan and all the selftests. But I don't lend any of my tools even to family either.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Btw.......this forum is great for helping people. What problems are you having?

Sent from my phone that somebody didn't help me get.


having a bad smoking problem even after changing 2 injectors.. but its only at idle and its raw fuel smell no oil or antifreeze
 

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Discussion Starter #9
haha now NO OFFENSE but why would you think I'd lend out a $300 compression tester to a stranger on the internet? Second guess all you want, it isn't happening.

i dunno who ganked you but i can get the tester from snap-on for $115 .... jus didnt want to spend it to use it 1 time on 1 cylinder
 

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Discussion Starter #10
There are many members who would drive over and help you out if they were close enough but they won't just lend you high dollar equipment. I have driven 50 miles on a number of occasions to scan someones vehicle for free. I normally get a $100.00 for running a scan and all the self tests. But I don't lend any of my tools even to family either.
i understand that and i dont mind driving for help either .... just dont seem to be able to find anyone who i can trust on the 6.0 that isn't just shooting in the dark trying to fix it... im a very experienced diesel mechanic and have worked on big trucks and heavy equipment for almost 10 yrs and this 6.0 has me stumped
 

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having a bad smoking problem even after changing 2 injectors.. but its only at idle and its raw fuel smell no oil or antifreeze
You should load test your batteries, and test your ficm.

Sent from my phone that somebody didn't help me get.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
it has a new alternator, 2 new batteries, and the FICM tests at 47v, i installed 2 new injectors after i had a contribution test done and was told #6 and #8 injectors were reading bad... it does have a "skip" when starting and it does have like a weird knock noise coming from the air box NOT THE BOTTOM END at idle.. and only smokes when idling... it runs like a strapped ape once you floor it.. has a **** ton of more power than my old 05 f550 service truck... DOES NOT CONSUME ANY OIL or have any fuel in the coolant and no fuel in the oil ... you see now why i am having so much problem hunting this problem down now?
 

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I'm really not thinking the FICM is to blame for your excessive fueling issue, but it COULD be bad. That voltage reading is a touch low (should be 48) but still within specs (>46V) and what was it while you were cranking over the engine? It needs to be monitored from the time you place the key in the truck to the time the glow plug relay shuts off (roughly 90 seconds). If it drops below 46V, you have a problem with the power supply board.

PS. Not to second guess you on your work, but just curious how you determined which of the injectors were requiring replacement? (I'm assuming you thought one or both might be leaking down).
 

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you see now why i am having so much problem hunting this problem down now?
No

the popping through the intake tells me you've got a valvetrain issue. A stuck valve could have bent a pushrod/broken a rocker or a lifter is going bad and wearing into the cam lobe.

Any diesel compression gauge would work, you just need a 6.0 glowplug adapter. Are you really a heavy truck mechanic without a compression gauge?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I'm really not thinking the FICM is to blame for your excessive fueling issue, but it COULD be bad. That voltage reading is a touch low (should be 48) but still within specs (>46V) and what was it while you were cranking over the engine? It needs to be monitored from the time you place the key in the truck to the time the glow plug relay shuts off (roughly 90 seconds). If it drops below 46V, you have a problem with the power supply board.

PS. Not to second guess you on your work, but just curious how you determined which of the injectors were requiring replacement? (I'm assuming you thought one or both might be leaking down).
i checked the FICM with key on engine off and at start stayed at 47v the whole time .... as for the injectors i had them checked with a new snap-on variuos scanner and they didnt read 0 like the other 6 so thats what made me think they were bad plus usually when you have a stuck injector it typically will cause the problem i have
 

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Discussion Starter #16
No

the popping through the intake tells me you've got a valvetrain issue. A stuck valve could have bent a pushrod/broken a rocker or a lifter is going bad and wearing into the cam lobe.

Any diesel compression gauge would work, you just need a 6.0 glowplug adapter. Are you really a heavy truck mechanic without a compression gauge?
thats why im seeking a compression gauge to either confirm or deny my thought and yours of an internal engine problem.... as for the compression gauge i have a gauge i jus need the adapter sorry for the wrong info..
 

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I agree, you have a valve train issue, did you do anything to the topend recently? That noise through the intake is cofirmation. That will cause contribution codes to pop up. You need to pull the valve covers to investigate. You dont really need a compression guage to confirm a problem. As far as the smoke, i'm still thinking ficm. Could be the logic board, even with good voltage. You need to see voltage while driving, but I wouldnt run it anymore at this point.

Sent from my phone that somebody didn't help me get.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I agree, you have a valve train issue, did you do anything to the topend recently? That noise through the intake is cofirmation. That will cause contribution codes to pop up. You need to pull the valve covers to investigate. You dont really need a compression guage to confirm a problem. As far as the smoke, i'm still thinking ficm. Could be the logic board, even with good voltage. You need to see voltage while driving, but I wouldnt run it anymore at this point.

Sent from my phone that somebody didn't help me get.

i bought this truck about a month ago with it smoking and all i have done is replace the injectors... i did a visual inspection of the valve while i had the oil rail off and nothing seemed out of place or bad or bent... as for the FICM how do i check it while im driving? use the scanner i assume
 

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