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Discussion Starter #21
WOW.....I CAN'T BELIEVE ALL THAT STUFF IS IN THE CCV.....

IT LOOKS LIKE MAYONAISE.....

B-T-W.....I THINK THAT THE "PICTURE" POST COUNT IS 50.....

Pretty gross, isn't it? Every single part of the old motor that's exposed to oil flow is like that. Every time I crack a seal open or pull a plate off I get chunks of that stuff everywhere.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Alrighty, hopefully the end is in sight.

Today I finished breaking the PSD and T444E down and started to put things back together. Had to go to Lowes and get bolts for the harmonic balancer puller. Bolt size for the points on the balancer is 3/8 x 16.

Pulled the front cover off and spent a good bit of time with a can of brake cleaner, a can of gas for solvent, a wire brush, and steel wool cleaning up the pan, bottom of the block, and front cover surfaces. Pops helped out again today, and his standards for cleanliness are fortunately much higher than mine. Having a second set of hands was very helpful for mounting the oil pan and front cover back up. Don't forget the alignment pins on the front cover! Also swapped the pickup tube from the old block to new. Had to pull two head bolts to swap the tube bracket around. I hate messing with internals, but torqued them back down to 95 ft/lbs, so it should be ok.

Used the TA31 for the plenums, front cover, and oil pan. Didn't have the ability to flip the motor, so lots of brake cleaner, a good microfiber, and a set of crossed fingers will hopefully be enough to keep it from leaking too much. The dipstick port is going to leak like crazy anyway, due to what looks like repeated attempts at a bad repair by the previous owner. Not terribly enthusiastic about the way they took care of the truck. Stopped once everything was snugged down to let the epoxy cure overnight.

Tomorrow, I'll be installing things in this order: HPOP and gear, fuel pump, bowl, and lines, oil cooler, turbo pedestal, exhaust manifolds, water pump, wiring harness, HPOP reservoir... and that should leave it ready to go back in the truck. I'm sure I'll spend a pretty significant amount of time trying to figure out where various lines go, testing bolts to see if they're the right ones (I started out with ziploc bags and a sharpie, labeling everything, and finished by throwing the bolts on the ground as they came out), and looking for that damn 10mm socket.

Stay tuned. Pics of the block with pan, valve cover with sludge, and bolts from Lowes attached.
 

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THAT PICTURE MADE MY SKIN CRAWL.....:surprise:

 

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At least you have garage to do this in makes life soooo much easier. Trying to do my engine swap in backyard between two trucks with people speeding down the alley dust going everywhere, plus worrying about people freely walking up taking what they want, thankfully I have (4) 5k lumen lights up 6 cameras and watching all time from separate TV just for security system.

Any who, looks like when one shoves bananas in engine to get home in pinch on your pictures.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Did you find out for sure what caused this yet? Cracked blocks and/or pin holes are not common on the PSD


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Not yet, and I don't think I will at this point. Not sure what else it could be. It's definitely not the oil cooler or the front cover, beyond that who knows.
 

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At least you have garage to do this in makes life soooo much easier. Trying to do my engine swap in backyard between two trucks with people speeding down the alley dust going everywhere, plus worrying about people freely walking up taking what they want, thankfully I have (4) 5k lumen lights up 6 cameras and watching all time from separate TV just for security system.

Any who, looks like when one shoves bananas in engine to get home in pinch on your pictures.
ALL OF US WITHOUT GARAGES SUFFER WHEN IT COMES TO DOING AUTOMOTIVE WORK.....I WOULD REALLY LIKE TO HAVE A BIG GARAGE WITH A LOFT TO LIVE IN.....INSTEAD OF A HOUSE WITHOUT A GARAGE.....BUT THAT IS NOT MY SITUATION RIGHT NOW.....
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Unfortunately, the downside of having a shop like mine is that you work on cars all day, every day, or the bills don't get paid.

Didn't post last night, mostly because I was trying to figure out how to burn the truck to the ground without it looking like obvious insurance fraud. But yesterday was the day of reattaching accessories, minus water pump Bolt, 1 accessory bracket Bolt, and one idler pulley bolt that is definitely wrong but seems like it has at least a 50 percent chance of working. Also, I am 100% confident that the fuel line to the driver side head is wrong, because I had to been the snot out of it to get it into place. Hopefully that works. At this point apathy is setting in.

Had to rent a tap and die set for the motor mount holes on the block, they were so rusted the bolts wouldn't make it more than two or three threads in. Other than that it went pretty smoothly, and Paine will get her heart transplant tomorrow. was hoping to get it mounted to the frame and get the bellhousing lined up tonight, but the passenger side motor mount is half an inch off and doesn't seem to want to go home. I'll fight with that more tomorrow when I have some energy again. I have a couple pictures of the engine ready to go in the truck, but I'm on my phone and it won't let me post. I'll get those up tomorrow.
 

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Well you're over 30 posts now so you should be able to link pics. Imgur,com works good for a pic hosting site.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
I hate this truck. I hate cars, I hate working on cars, and I hate tools, and I hate the color orange.

Maybe a little dramatic, but I sure am over this. Spent a significant chunk of time last night fighting motor mounts, and literally all day today. Three of the bolts are in place, one is almost in. Called it quits so we could get two floor jacks. Problem is, there's no front lift point on the passenger's side front of the block, so the motor wants to go in heavily canted to the passenger's side. Took lifting the pan and transmission, along with the engine hoist, to get it as far as we did. There's no way this is a one person job, and if you did it yourself, you are a god among men. Or you have way more time and patience than I do, one or the other.

One of the braided fuel lines from the hard line from the fuel pump to the hard line on the fuel bowl disintegrated. I probably am going to start another thread for more targeted answers, but can I just use a high pressure rubber injection line and hose clamps instead of paying Ford triple digits for a 16 inch piece of hose?

It's so close, and yet so far. Once that's in place it's a matter of puzzling through which connectors and lines go where, which is going to confuse me to no end. But I'm not even excited to have the truck running anymore. I'm just over this whole thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Got the mounts in place. Definitely a two person job. Turns out the flywheel was binding on the torque converter studs. Took the perfect amount of floor jack on the passenger's side manifold, oil pan, transmission pan, and engine hoist, but it finally slid into place. After a moment of panic when I realized the bellhousing adapter plate had misaligned on one side, we managed to use a prybar to get a little space between the bellhousing and engine, then a hammer to smack the adapter plate back into its slot. Wasn't looking forward to pulling the engine back off the mounts to get that right, so I'm glad that the hammer once again solved my problems.

Everything else under the truck went fairly smoothly. Add a bellhousing bolt to the missing bolts list. Hopefully be able to find one in the junkyard tomorrow. Had to silicone one of the recessed terminals on the starter back into place after using a punch to break a rusted screw loose, since it was ghetto rigged by the previous owner (much like everything else on this truck) and had to be cut, so fingers crossed that doesn't catch on fire.

Spent another couple hours tonight fighting the V band clamps on the turbo. The downpipe was fine, but the up pipe clamp got pretty tweaked on removal, so it was a fight to get back into place. I'm pretty sure it's in place, and that's going to have to be good enough until I can start the truck to see what explodes.

I swear this thing has fought me tooth and nail every step of the way, and I know I've said this before, but I genuinely believe that it's all downhill from here. There's nothing else to get into place except hoses and electrical stuff. I'm sure there will be setbacks there, but the biggest issues so far have been getting the big heavy stuff into place and that should all be done. Not sure how much I'll get to work on it tomorrow. I was really hoping to have it wrapped up by Monday so I could say I was only a week behind schedule, but not sure if that's realistic or not. Based on how this has gone so far, I'll spend four hours trying to get some stupid little thing to work.

Picked up a foot or so of 3/8 injector line and heavy duty hose clamps to replace the busted fuel hose. Would still appreciate some input on whether or not that will fly. And just to be sure, the line that runs to the top of the fuel bowl will be the delivery line, and from the bottom is the return line, correct? Anyone know which of those lines is the blue one that fell apart on me, so I don't end up with things backwards?

Wish me luck finishing this crap off.
 

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THIS MAY BE A STUPID QUESTION.....

BUT.....WHY DID YOU PICK THE T444E INSTEAD OF ANOTHER FORD 7.3?....

WHAT IS THE ADVANTAGE OF HAVING THE T444E?....

THANKS.....

B-T-W.....KEEP IT GOING.....YOU ARE ALMOST FINISHED WITH THE SWAP.....JUST A FEW BOLTS TO GO.....
 

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Discussion Starter #33
THIS MAY BE A STUPID QUESTION.....

BUT.....WHY DID YOU PICK THE T444E INSTEAD OF ANOTHER FORD 7.3?....

WHAT IS THE ADVANTAGE OF HAVING THE T444E?....

THANKS.....

B-T-W.....KEEP IT GOING.....YOU ARE ALMOST FINISHED WITH THE SWAP.....JUST A FEW BOLTS TO GO.....
Cost and availability. The t444e was available at a junkyard 10 miles away, with 114k for $1,500. a comprable powerstroke would have been significantly more expensive, and I would have had to go further to get it. I think you could also make an argument that the bus motor was more well-maintained, and International didn't tune them hard from the factory anyway. However, with how this swap has been going, it may have been worth the extra money and time. It's a straightforward swap, but it's labor-intensive and everything that can fight has fought. If I had to do it over again, I'm honestly not sure what I would do.

Just need to put the front end together and it's done.
 

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Cost and availability. The t444e was available at a junkyard 10 miles away, with 114k for $1,500. a comprable powerstroke would have been significantly more expensive, and I would have had to go further to get it. I think you could also make an argument that the bus motor was more well-maintained, and International didn't tune them hard from the factory anyway. However, with how this swap has been going, it may have been worth the extra money and time. It's a straightforward swap, but it's labor-intensive and everything that can fight has fought. If I had to do it over again, I'm honestly not sure what I would do.

Just need to put the front end together and it's done.
ARE THE MOTORS VIRTUALLY THE SAME.....

DO YOU HAVE TO SWAP THE INJECTORS ALONG WITH THE EXTERNAL PARTS AND ATTACHMENTS THAT YOU HAVE LISTED IN THIS THREAD?....

IS THE HORSEPOWER OF THE INTERNATIONAL MOTOR EQUAL TO THE FORD MOTOR?....
 

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All the same when block is stripped. Injectors are single shot 160cc on later years.


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Discussion Starter #36
They're the exact same block and internals. Horsepower and torque differences were a matter of tuning, International ran them at less horsepower but more torque. Injectors in the 444E are ADs, whereas the truck originally had ABs. Should run fine, might be able to get more out of them with a tune but I doubt that will be in the budget on this truck since I still don't plan to own it for very long. It's a shame, since the motor will probably be solid for years to come, but the rust and the transmission scare me. Hopefully I should be able to sell this for what I have in it and move on to something else when the time comes.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Aight. Intercooler and piping, intake, radiator, batteries, and AC condenser went back into place today. Filled it up with oil. It immediately began dripping out of the flywheel inspection cover. Didn't even think about the rear main seal when doing this, so add that to the list of things you should definitely do when you have the engine out. Seemed to stop dripping almost immediately after I stopped pouring, so hopefully it's something I can ignore and get away with.

Went to start the truck. Turned the key. Power came on, fuel pump ran. For about three seconds, then everything died. No lights on dash, no interior lights or turn signals, nothing. Like the batteries are disconnected. Batteries in my multimeter were dead as well, so I couldn't test the batteries, but I'm fairly confident they're good. No fuses blown. Has to be something I either connected wrong or didn't connect at all. There's two smaller ground wires that branch off the main battery to block ground on the passenger's side. Didn't know where they went, so I left them disconnected thinking I'd see what didn't work, and that I really just wanted to see if this thing is going to run at all. Since that's an obvious point to start, even though I don't think that's it, could someone tell me where the leads on that passenger's side cable are supposed to go?

It's so close, and yet so far.
 

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Aight. Intercooler and piping, intake, radiator, batteries, and AC condenser went back into place today. Filled it up with oil. It immediately began dripping out of the flywheel inspection cover. Didn't even think about the rear main seal when doing this, so add that to the list of things you should definitely do when you have the engine out. Seemed to stop dripping almost immediately after I stopped pouring, so hopefully it's something I can ignore and get away with.



Went to start the truck. Turned the key. Power came on, fuel pump ran. For about three seconds, then everything died. No lights on dash, no interior lights or turn signals, nothing. Like the batteries are disconnected. Batteries in my multimeter were dead as well, so I couldn't test the batteries, but I'm fairly confident they're good. No fuses blown. Has to be something I either connected wrong or didn't connect at all. There's two smaller ground wires that branch off the main battery to block ground on the passenger's side. Didn't know where they went, so I left them disconnected thinking I'd see what didn't work, and that I really just wanted to see if this thing is going to run at all. Since that's an obvious point to start, even though I don't think that's it, could someone tell me where the leads on that passenger's side cable are supposed to go?



It's so close, and yet so far.


***Crossing fingers


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Discussion Starter #39
***Crossing fingers.
Crossing mine too! I have no idea where most of this wiring goes, so it was sort of a "well this looks likely and makes sense, so let's try it" kind of thing. Until I can figure out what fuse blew or harness melted, and then fix the cause (that's gonna be the real issue), it remains a paperweight. A very heavy, expensive, frustrating paperweight.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
IT'S ALIVE!

Sorta...

Got my electrical stuff sorted out. Turns out that if you ground the glow plug relay instead of going to the starter relay in a fit of ineptitude, bad things happen. Also got the RH battery cable properly grounded. That fixed that. Unfortunately, that means that the fuel pump was able to run, and allow one of the feed lines to do a pretty decent Old Faithful impression. Had to get new seals for that. $30 for some little bits of rubber is offensive, but it fixed that.

Tonight it was time to crank it. Took 30 seconds or so of cranking, spread out over two or three attempts, but it fired up and ran. Smoked like crazy from somewhere around the turbo, so I'm guessing that I didn't get the up pipe clamp on right. Didn't have any coolant in it so I shut it down pretty much immediately after it found idle.

And noticed a torrential oil flow from the flywheel inspection cover. Like, multiple streams. Stopped almost immediately after the truck was shut down. It didn't occur to me to check the rear main while the engine was out, but plenty of regrets now. Hoping it's something like a line that's not connected right, but given the remarkable quantity of oil that it lost in 5 seconds of running, I don't have high hopes.

And the drama continues.
 
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