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Discussion Starter #1
I've been spending way too much time on these forums trying to figure out how to swap in a T444E to my 99.5 F250. Haven't found someone who posted a complete swap process yet, so I figure I'll be that guy. This is my first diesel truck, bought it a week ago and found out that someone went to a lot of effort to cover up what I suspect is a cracked block.

This is a work in progress, but I want to have it done in the next few days. Might as well start now though.

Picked up this T444E from a local junkyard today. $1500 out the door (well, before Uncle Sam got his cut), 114K miles, came out of a 2001 school bus. First engine I've put in my F150 that actually caused suspension sag.

Also had to drive the truck 5 miles or so from the shop that was diagnosing the coolant -> oil leak. Paid them an obscene amount of money to not only not fix anything, but make several things worse. Also, the truck that I bought a week ago got backed into in their parking lot, so that's a bonus. I'm taking the insurance money and putting it towards what I'll lose when I sell the truck. Had someone tell me it was leaking coolant at a stop light, but I had a mile or so left to go and the engine is coming out anyway so screw it, it's going to make it there whether it wants to or not. Here's where it was leaking, from where the shop charged me $200 to pull the water pump and look at the front cover for cavitation. Not sure I got what I paid for with that shop. But it made it home, so that's what counts. I guess.

After some head scratching about exactly how I was going to get the engine out of the bed of the F150, I got it on the hoist.

I don't have a stand that can hold this thing, so I pulled the oil pan tonight and cleaned it up a little, I'll get it spotless tomorrow. That epoxy is no joke, hopefully I can get things clean enough that it forms a good seal even without flipping the motor. The pan is one of the things that has to get swapped, so that was non optional.

Tomorrow the engine comes out of the 250, and then things start getting swapped. Be back with an update soon.

EDIT: Apparently I can't have pictures inline due to a low post count. That's unfortunate, it would be much more efficient to be able to just link them, but whatever.
 

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I have one in my 02. Block is the same. You move your psd accessories over. What doesn’t look psd, remove and replace.

It’s good you’re doing a write up - we’ll have it on paper this time.


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I wonder if you lucked out and got the “high torque” model T444E. They have larger single shot injectors in them. They make over 100 ft pounds more than a late model PSD stock vs stock. If you have these injectors and plan on keeping them, you’ll need single shot tuning


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Discussion Starter #4
I wonder if you lucked out and got the “high torque” model T444E. They have larger single shot injectors in them. They make over 100 ft pounds more than a late model PSD stock vs stock. If you have these injectors and plan on keeping them, you’ll need single shot tuning


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These are AD injectors, with an AE in at least the number 8 cylinder. Haven't pulled the other valve cover to check it yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Alrighty, nightly update.

Got a late start today, had some business stuff to attend to. But I'd guess I spent about 5 hours on it today.

  • Pulled batteries
  • Pulled bumper
  • Pulled headlights
  • Pulled fan and shroud - I think I rented one of the few good fan clutch removal sets from Advance
  • Pulled radiator, intercooler, and then front core supports
  • Detached AC compressor from the bracket, left it and the condenser connected and tucked as out of the way as possible.
  • Hurt my back
  • Disconnected all lines and harnesses going to the engine
  • Began on disconnecting turbo. Got it down to the clamp on the up pipe, fought with it for two hours, and threw my hammer across the shop at least once. I have this sign up for a reason.
  • Hurt my knees
  • Drenched that damn clamp in PB blaster and called it a night.
If anyone has a tip for that clamp, I'm all ears. I've hit it, I've pried on it, I've asked it nicely, I've called it every expletive I know and a few I made up. It's fairly loose on both sides, but I can't get underneath the turbo to loosen it there.

Also, when I finally get that clamp loose, what direction do I need to pull the turbo to get it out? I've read straight up, I've read straight forward, and I've read twist. I've tried yanking on it as it is, but it doesn't want to budge. Everything else is disconnected, so I'd expect to see a little bit of movement. But it's like it's still bolted down.

Tomorrow that engine comes out, and hopefully I can get everything swapped over to get the new one back in place, and then let the oil pan epoxy sit overnight and be ready to go Sunday morning. Goal is still to have it done by the end of the day Sunday, but if today is any indication I'm going to end up fighting something stupid and get delayed. Fingers crossed.
 

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The turbo is held down by two 18mm. Remove them, the clamp in the back of the turbo.

Up, and towards you and the turbo will come out.


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Discussion Starter #7
The turbo is held down by two 18mm. Remove them, the clamp in the back of the turbo.

Up, and towards you and the turbo will come out.


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I got the two bolts that sit between the two halves of the turbo and hold it down to the pedestal, but I think they were like 13s. Is there something else I'm missing?
 

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Oops they are 1/2” and torqued 18 ft/lbs

Held down by two bolts

Two brackets.

And cac tunes.

If it ain’t coming off it’s seized to the rear collector.


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Discussion Starter #9
Oops they are 1/2” and torqued 18 ft/lbs

Held down by two bolts

Two brackets.

And cac tunes.

If it ain’t coming off it’s seized to the rear collector.


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I think the up pipe clamp is still holding it down pretty good, I'll figure that out tomorrow and then break out the rubber mallet and start hitting things.
 

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You’re probably at the point of no return now anyway, but just wanted to say that the turbo can be left on to remove the engine, that’s the way I’ve done it. It’s tight but it’ll go


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Fought that stupid clamp again for I kid you not two hours today. Eventually I hit the point of no return for my temper and beat the snot out of the turbo with a rubber mallet. Whaddya know, it came right off. I suspect that the clamp was free but the turbo was seized to the up pipe, leading me to believe that the clamp was still holding it. This has reinforced my belief that the solution to all life's problems is a bigger hammer.

After that the engine came out. As tips to anyone reading, the upper bellhousing bolts were loose but not out, since they were too long to get past the firewall. I lifted the engine up a little, then jacked the front of the transmission up enough to get those loose. Also, no way could I have pulled this thing without removing the turbo. Had to cut one of the wires to the starter, as the screw holding it in stripped. Also had to cut the wire to the pyro gauge since someone ghetto rigged it into place and it was not coming out. After making two trips to Advance for fuel line tools, and giving up on the fuel line connection at the block and moving to the connection by the firewall, I got it out and on the ground. Meanwhile, I took advantage of some free labor and got my dad to start pulling accessories off the T444E. That air compressor was heavy. Thanks a million Pops.

Took tons of pictures, soaked the exhaust bolts in PB blaster, and called it a night. I'm a day behind schedule at this point, so hopefully tomorrow I can get the accessories swapped over in good time and have it ready to go back in. Looking at everything that needs to be swapped is daunting, but it's just nuts and bolts. I have a feeling that the pictures I took of where everything is on the bad motor are going to be super useful.

Check back in tomorrow to see how it went. No more T444E specific information until I start swapping things around.
 

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Today's update won't have pictures, mostly because there's not a whole lot to take pictures of.

When I started this swap, I was told that there were only a few things to change. Front cover, oil pan, turbo, a few little things here and there... and that remains mostly true.

BUT

In order to change the few things that absolutely have to be swapped, EVERYTHING ELSE ON THE MOTOR HAS TO COME OFF. Here I was thinking I was in for a relatively quick job. Keep in mind that this is my first 7.3 and my first diesel, so when I hear that the timing cover needs to be swapped, I don't anticipate pulling the harmonic balancer, HPOP, fuel bowl, and just about everything else on the front of the engine, along with the oil pan and pickup tube. I'm in over my head but there's only one way to go and that's forward. But to anyone who happens upon this thread after researching this swap and being encouraged by the tales of just a few little things being moved over, don't be fooled. You'll be stripping this to the block.

Anyway, today I got pretty much everything but the HPOP and front cover off down to the block, and I stopped there mostly because the HPOP dumped a quart of oil on my shoes. Should have seen that coming.

Further things that I found out will need to be swapped include: intake plenums (I knew the pedestal had to change, but the size difference of the plenums was substantial), a pretty substantial number of hose brackets, and a few other small things that were obvious but that I'm forgetting now. Back to the point of helping people who are considering the swap, I would say just plan on stripping your PSD down to the block, setting everything aside, strip the T444E, and then start bringing the accessories (that you know are good) over from the PSD.

This is a much bigger pain than I expected.
 

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Lol you’re doing a good job at a good pace. As I said anything that isn’t psd must be removed - which is the the whole top - all accessories must be move over that isn’t psd. It’s not a quick swap - it’s a lot of fxkking work! A van 7.3 is already A lot of work and it has psd stuff up top. The t444e is three times the work b/c everything on top + accessories must be removed.

Update us with more pics - we like pics even if we saw it over 100x + :)


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Update us with more pics - we like pics even if we saw it over 100x + <img src="http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Smile" class="inlineimg" />


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Thanks for the kind words, just a little frustrated is all. My shop is a mess, there's diesel everywhere, and I just keep thinking about the fact that I don't have any real assurance that this thing is going to fire up when I get it all done. Plus I'm flat broke, since I'm 4 grand deeper in the hole on this than I wanted to be and I haven't been able to sell the other truck yet.

What's the required post count before I can start doing inline images?
 

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I see you have a two-post hoist. Did you give any thought of removing the cab to get better access to do the engine swap? Swear I read in this forum that it's easier than going out the front with the engine.
 

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I see you have a two-post hoist. Did you give any thought of removing the cab to get better access to do the engine swap? Swear I read in this forum that it's easier than going out the front with the engine.
It may have been easier, I honestly just didn't feel like disconnecting all the brake lines and electrical stuff. I can pull the front end off pretty quick, and pulling the engine out at that point is very straightforward. Only real issue was dealing with the turbo, and that stupid marman clamp.
 

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Thanks for the kind words, just a little frustrated is all. My shop is a mess, there's diesel everywhere, and I just keep thinking about the fact that I don't have any real assurance that this thing is going to fire up when I get it all done. Plus I'm flat broke, since I'm 4 grand deeper in the hole on this than I wanted to be and I haven't been able to sell the other truck yet.

What's the required post count before I can start doing inline images?


I have no idea on the post count.

Yeah you’re pretty deep in the hole - it’s going to be worth it though and it will fire up. The t444e block I have in my truck is all t444e internally. Did a rebuild on it. All stock sized bearings except pistons were .020 overal (didn’t need to be really but what the hell - machine shop got me by the nads already as is). Plan to throw in some billet rods once I have time - something I should have done in the beginning I know! The whole damn motor rebuild and chit cost 6k. I won’t get any of it back but I sure as hell enjoyed doing it!

It was a 97 block - so it has thicker webbings for durability vs the newer blocks but idt that chit matters anyways. It sounds a lot different than a psd block though.




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Still haven't hit the post requirement for pictures. Seems kinda restrictive, but I guess it limits spam.

Had to play catchup for business stuff from the weekend, so I didn't get very far today. Got the HPOP off the old motor, spilled some more oil, finished pulling the exhaust manifolds off the T444E (had to take the entire exhaust off the block at once, as I rounded off the bolts at the Y pipe) and swapped one of the plenums over just to feel like I accomplished something. Also used some steel wool and a liberal amount of elbow grease to clean the oil pan up to get ready to reseal. That TA31 does not mess around. Had to hose the pan out with brake cleaner to get rid of the steel wool shedding and scraps of old gasket, then hit it with the hose to make sure I got everything.

The real sticking point was the harmonic balancer. That's all that's keeping the front cover(s) on at this point, and then I can start putting the good block back together. I've got a pile of parts and only a general idea of where things go, so that should be fun. I rented a harmonic balancer kit from Advance, as the gear puller I had wasn't going to cut it. For some reason, the kit had three of every other kind of bolt that could be used for attaching the puller to the balancer, but only two of the ones that I need. I'll have to look at what size the bolts are, but if you ever need to pull the balancer, the kits you can rent don't have enough bolts. Kinda stupid.

Here are some pics of where the blocks are right now, the pile of parts I have off the PSD to put on the T444E block, and also the gunk in the CCV from water mixing with oil. If I ever buy another one of these trucks, I'll be pulling that off to look. Harder to hide that crap then it is to change the oil to hide the leak. Actually, I've learned a lot about things to look for when looking at one of these trucks. I still hate the fact that I have to do an engine swap right after buying the truck because someone was dishonest, but at least I'm learning something from the experience.

At this point, I'm looking forward to being able to clean my shop more than having the truck back together. It pains me to walk into work and see diesel and oil all over the floor, with so much crap laying around that it's hard to walk. Once I can finally start putting this all back together, I hope it will go pretty quickly. I'm now two days behind schedule, with at least two more days of work ahead of me.

I said when I started this thread that I'd make it clear what parts had to be swapped, but at this point I'm just bringing everything but the block and injectors over from the PSD since it all has to come off anyway. The T444E has AD injectors, and I'm guessing that since the truck is a 99.5 that it had the same thing, though I haven't pulled the valve cover to look. If I have to swap them I will, but I'm going to put it in the truck as is and see what happens.
 

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WOW.....I CAN'T BELIEVE ALL THAT STUFF IS IN THE CCV.....

IT LOOKS LIKE MAYONAISE.....

B-T-W.....I THINK THAT THE "PICTURE" POST COUNT IS 50.....

 
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