[arayray94]

I know this has been gone over many times and some may say it is easier to just buy a BPD kit but I would rather piece it together myself and have it exactly how I want it. So furthermore, has anyone made a diy remote oil cooler?

I am still gathering all the information I need to make this happen. "Hubler13F" over on FTE is no longer active but made the same kit I am looking to do.

He brought up some issues:

How to keep the HPOP sump screen in.
- Suggestions or what can be used as an alternative?

Oil pressure took longer to rise. Cold oil or oil back feeding back into the engine?
- He suggested check valves to keep it from back feeding.

Other questions:
Where is the best place to put a pressure sensor? The one in the housing is a dummy sensor for the cluster correct? Would it be best to put an actual sensor in place of it?

 

[SparkyF250]

Here's a fun thread by the last guy who wanted to DIY
http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/6-...external-oil-cooler-set-up-mass-produced.html

My 2 cents... BPD :twocents:

 

[arayray94]

Here's a fun thread by the last guy who wanted to DIY
http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/6-...external-oil-cooler-set-up-mass-produced.html

My 2 cents... BPD :twocents:

Pics no longer available :crying:

 

[SparkyF250]

Pics no longer available :crying:

That's OK, it's mostly for your reading pleasure. >
The guy never took into account everything that the engineers at BPD did when they designed theirs. On top of that after they sent him a cease and desist letter he went totally nuts. Sadly he's no longer with us. :hehe:

Seriously I'd just go with the BPD and be done with it. I put their cooler on my old 6.4 and it was nothing but 1st class, high quality, even their packaging oozes quality. IMO

 

[arayray94]

That's OK, it's mostly for your reading pleasure. >
The guy never took into account everything that the engineers at BPD did when they designed theirs. On top of that after they sent him a cease and desist letter he went totally nuts. Sadly he's no longer with us. :hehe:

Seriously I'd just go with the BPD and be done with it. I put their cooler on my old 6.4 and it was nothing but 1st class, high quality, even their packaging oozes quality. IMO

Gotcha, I will have a look see!

 

[arayray94]

Found

video on Youtube of the same setup. Still looking for anyone who has done this, any tips or tricks you'd recommend? (check valves, pressure sensor locations etc)

 

[Rattlesnake18]

In to see how this goes... opcorn2:

 

[djmaguire]

I'm in too.

OP: You can find the model number for about the only aftermarket air-to-oil cooler capable of meeting the 6.0s heat transfer requirements in one of my comments in this thread:

http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/6-0l-performance-parts-discussion/1143634-air-oil-cooler-temps.html

You'll also see in that thread the problems with the MPD plate versus the BPD plate.

Toward the end of that thread, I question why nobody has done a coolant-to-oil relocation NOT using an OEM cooler but - instead - physically larger heat exchanger capable of more transfer. Someone could use the simple/cheap BPD plate and a liquid-to-liquid cooler with 250K btu/hr. It's something else to consider that has never been done.

As far as connecting to the engine goes, I always wondered why nobody used E-series parts for doing a DIY cooler. The approach would be to change out the F-series filter tower with the E-series filter adapter and put the cooler inline with an E-series remote oil filter. The solid E-series lines would be replaced with flexible lines.

All of that said... I have a BPD relocation because - when all was said and done - the $1300ish+time to DIY an air-to-oil couldn't beat the $1300 BPD relocation. ...or the $1800 air-to-oil.

This is especially an issue for heavy hauling. I did not want to encounter an unforeseen issue with an 8-ton vehicle on a trailer behind me. If I didn't haul, I'd be more inclined to experiment.

I certainly want to encourage any DIYer. ...but not because of cost. BPD's system is worth the asking price. Anyone designing/building their own will quickly learn that. But DIY stuff is good for the soul. ...as long as satisfaction is all they are after, in this case.

Good luck.

 

[arayray94]

I'm in too.

OP: You can find the model number for about the only aftermarket air-to-oil cooler capable of meeting the 6.0s heat transfer requirements in one of my comments in this thread:

http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/6-0l-performance-parts-discussion/1143634-air-oil-cooler-temps.html

You'll also see in that thread the problems with the MPD plate versus the BPD plate.

Toward the end of that thread, I question why nobody has done a coolant-to-oil relocation NOT using an OEM cooler but - instead - physically larger heat exchanger capable of more transfer. Someone could use the simple/cheap BPD plate and a liquid-to-liquid cooler with 250K btu/hr. It's something else to consider that has never been done.

As far as connecting to the engine goes, I always wondered why nobody used E-series parts for doing a DIY cooler. The approach would be to change out the F-series filter tower with the E-series filter adapter and put the cooler inline with an E-series remote oil filter. The solid E-series lines would be replaced with flexible lines.

All of that said... I have a BPD relocation because - when all was said and done - the $1300ish+time to DIY an air-to-oil couldn't beat the $1300 BPD relocation. ...or the $1800 air-to-oil.

This is especially an issue for heavy hauling. I did not want to encounter an unforeseen issue with an 8-ton vehicle on a trailer behind me. If I didn't haul, I'd be more inclined to experiment.

I certainly want to encourage any DIYer. ...but not because of cost. BPD's system is worth the asking price. Anyone designing/building their own will quickly learn that. But DIY stuff is good for the soul. ...as long as satisfaction is all they are after, in this case.

Good luck.

BPD kit with a thermostat is $2100 whereas I can put the same kit together for under $900. I get everyones love for BPD products, they are nice and all but I would rather do it myself. There are plenty of people running DIY kits. If I ever do end up pulling big loads and run into any problems, then I would upgrade. However until then since I don't pull loads, a DIY kit is good for me.

I don't think people are using a coolant-to-oil system because of the complexity I would say. It is much easier to just do an air-to-oil system.

 

[djmaguire]

You and I seem to be mostly in agreement. ...at least I think so from what I wrote and you followed up with. I don't know if you think so, though.

If you're not hauling and, so, have some breathing room for testing, you should be fine.

I do question the $900 number in terms of apples-to-apples. If you're doing your own metal fab and making your own hoses, it's possible. The devil's in the details, though.

The commercial kits have every bolt, every screw, every bracket. If someone isn't fabbing, a single decent bracket could run a couple of hundred bucks. Keeping things 12an isn't cheap either.

That's my only point about my relocation being worth the cost. Could I have made one for less money? Sure. Could I have made an identical or comparable unit piece-to-piece for less money? Not by much. After my time, no chance.

But that's me. I'd love to see what you do. If you want to take the E-series route, I actually have the parts.

...and don't read anything bad into my "good luck" before. That wasn't meant as a slight. I should've said "have fun."

 

[arayray94]

You and I seem to be mostly in agreement. ...at least I think so from what I wrote and you followed up with. I don't know if you think so, though.

If you're not hauling and, so, have some breathing room for testing, you should be fine.

I do question the $900 number in terms of apples-to-apples. If you're doing your own metal fab and making your own hoses, it's possible. The devil's in the details, though.

The commercial kits have every bolt, every screw, every bracket. If someone isn't fabbing, a single decent bracket could run a couple of hundred bucks. Keeping things 12an isn't cheap either.

That's my only point about my relocation being worth the cost. Could I have made one for less money? Sure. Could I have made an identical or comparable unit piece-to-piece for less money? Not by much. After my time, no chance.

But that's me. I'd love to see what you do. If you want to take the E-series route, I actually have the parts.

...and don't read anything bad into my "good luck" before. That wasn't meant as a slight. I should've said "have fun."

I've got a pretty good excel sheet going of the different options. I will be uploading it once I got all the details worked out. I am trying to narrow down what hose to go with. What is the pressure range the hose could see? Would 500psi rated be too low?

As far as the e series hardware goes, I would be interested in it for sure!

 

[JustinOOO9]

I?ll check back if something is actually made. Not trying to be rude but how do you figure a effective diy kit for $900? That?s pretty low compared to a company mostly recovering their R&D cost etc

 

[arayray94]

I?ll check back if something is actually made. Not trying to be rude but how do you figure a effective diy kit for $900? That?s pretty low compared to a company mostly recovering their R&D cost etc

This is just preliminary pricing. I budgeted in a spare oil cooler housing that way if I mess up or have anything goes wrong, I can revert back to stock. Along with a rough estimate of cost of welding. I am not trying to sway anyone's opinion on this matter, I am doing this for myself and have no intentions of marketing anything.

I'm looking for feedback on safety factors such as hose pressure requires, optimal placement of pressure sensors, filters etc..

 

[djmaguire]

... What is the pressure range the hose could see? Would 500psi rated be too low?

The highest real pressure that the low pressure part of the 6.0 oil system would see is prolly 125PSI. A little less, really.

I can look at the ratings when I get back from traveling.

As far as the e series hardware goes, I would be interested in it for sure!

Okay. I'll send you the Ford part numbers to start so you can think about the idea and consider if it will work for you.

 

[scparrish]

The biggest part to this design is making sure that you don't impede any of the flow. Nate, windrunner, did this a few years back and the findings were that there was a lot of lost pressure and flow through his home made system vs the BPD. Also the a big fail safe built into the BPD kit is in the tranfer block. The oil system is the single most important system on a 6.0, everything uses it.

If you are dead set on this I have a quality oil cooler for sale that has the same dimensions as the BPD standard cooler.

 

[arayray94]

The biggest part to this design is making sure that you don't impede any of the flow. Nate, windrunner, did this a few years back and the findings were that there was a lot of lost pressure and flow through his home made system vs the BPD. Also the a big fail safe built into the BPD kit is in the tranfer block. The oil system is the single most important system on a 6.0, everything uses it.

If you are dead set on this I have a quality oil cooler for sale that has the same dimensions as the BPD standard cooler.

Do you have any links to his build? I'm not sure what you mean by fail safe?

My plan is to use all 12AN hose with the dual filter setup under the bumper or somewhere close to the cooler as opposed to the frame rail. I figure this will help with keeping pressure from dropping. I plan to use the Setrab 50-920-7612, rated at 35,000-50,000 btu/hr. Filter setup will be an Amsoil EA098 along with a 10 Micron Bypass Filter.

 

[arayray94]

Here's what I got so far for the parts list. The diagram is pretty self explanatory. Please let me know what you think.

 

[scparrish]

The BPD billet block has a bypass built into, same as oe design, in case of the filter clogging or something else in the system becoming a restriction. This is a pretty important feature. I am not sure where Nate's thread is.

 

[djmaguire]

The -12AN thing is good. That will make your system-wide head loss much more inline with what Ford specs (20psi drop total along the cooler circuit, IIRC).

@scparrish is right about the system bypass. It is built into the more expensive BPD plate, but you can do it externally with a bypass valve, as well.

That cooler isn't anywhere near spec. It's 1/2 to 1/3 of what Ford says you need. Whether you believe Ford or not is your business, of course. I would talk to @scparrish about what he has. You may be able to not spend so much more and get the spec'd heat transfer.

All of this kinda goes back to my earlier post about details. If someone wants to match Ford's specs, they don't get off cheap. If they want to run fast and loose with bypasses and BTUs and micron ratings and flow rates and system head loss, then it can be really cheap.

Before anyone gets upset, though... I'm *not* saying that *you* are running fast and loose. I'm just saying that there is a spectrum - "full spec" on one end and "it'll prolly work" on the other. ...and because full spec is to meet haul ratings and you don't haul, you have some flexibility if you choose to ignore specs.

 

[323flint]

You could just buy a ipr performance v2 oil cap and build air oil cooler off of it