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Discussion Starter #41
x2. i'm going to be tackeling this job this winter hopefully so i would also like to know where this.
The HM5 thats circled is what he pointed out as the STC fitting.. Correct me if im wrong!

 

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Discussion Starter #43
STC fitting is worth it... Did you check the cylinders for scoring?
well its not too late if i decide to do it, i'm gunna call tomorrow and see if ford has a gasket kit for it, all 8 still had a very nice cross pattern one cylinder has one vertical scratch, wasnt enough the catch my finger nail, not good but what can i do about it?

on a second note, i want to know how the piston doesnt slam into the head???:hehe: when at full stroke it raises above the surface just a pinch, only give i can think there to be is the HG itself...there cant hardly be room for a **** hair in there!:hehe:
 

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The new, updated STC fitting is a one piece design and it's best you do it during the HG work. These go out all the time. The original is a quick connect type fitting, that basically just ruptures a seal and starts to leak High Pressure oil. Not sure what the acronym "STC" means. "snap tight connecter"???
 

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it stands for snap to connect.
nice job on the heads. i did mine the exact same way. in the driveway :thumb:
i would do them that way again. i actually enjoyed it. sick eh???
i had .008 milled off but i am a firm believer that .010 should be max.
i liked the pics and again, congrats man
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Hey a couple of ?? for the starter of this post, What is the STC ? And did you do your own EGR Delete, After the Hot tank and The welding Where did you get the Plumbing for the Bypass, I have a sneaky pipe now , but I am doing studs a Oil cooler, gaskets , Fire rings and Reg return line this Dec. 09'
If you did your EGR Delete "Off-Road Version Yourself , could you list the steps please, that would save me at least 450 bucks from buying a kit from FCDS or RCD etc. Etc..... I have the means to do it homegrown just not the exact procedure or parts req list. THANKS , and GREAT JOB !!!
I apologize if i was misleading when i said i was doing an EGR "delelt". I didnt do a full delete just capped the EGR cooler itself, It will still be on the truck, but its only function is having coolant run through it. I simply had both ends of the cooler TIG welded shut using stainless plugs, i then used a torch to heat up the scoop in the up pipe and jamed a big socket down into the pipe forcing the scoop flush with the pipe so i minimized the block of flow to the turbo, i then cut a plug for the up-pipe and welded it in where it connects to the EGR cooler just using a wire welder (easy DIY). SO, the EGR cooler will then be re-installed like normal! A full delete is a welded manifold with a re-route, elminating the cooler ports as well as the EGR valve itself.

You may wonder how this is any different then a simple EGR blocker plate... well with a plate, if the cooler ever fails (cracking leaking coolant) the coolant can still leak into the exhaust causing problems, With the way i did it if the cooler ever fails it will simply fill up the cooler itself and cannot leak out (assuming the welds are good). so it can still fail but wont cause problems, (or so i hope!) Diffinatly not the best method but probably the cheapest.:thumb: also this way everything still appears stock as well. i even left the stem from the up-pipe on so i can still put the V-clamp back on and if i ever turn it back to stock there will still be an EGR valve on the truck, it may throw an insufficient flow code but thats it. JMO!!
 

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Discussion Starter #48
well i pulled the cover for the STC fitting, real confused:dunno:! Whats in the truck looks exactly like what i got from ford, BUT looking closly at that picture of the HPOP layout, it looks like that fitting is a two piece with a pivot in the middle. as if you hold one side with one wrench and turn the other side with another wrench (not sure how to describe it best) the part i got is a one piece with only one hex in the middle to turn the whole part when tightening.. IF THATS THE CASE MY TRUCK ALREADY HAS THE ONE PIECE IN IT!!!:woot::woot::woot:



Now the fitting shown on the RIGHT is the actual SCT fitting i got from ford as the new one piece design, the fitting on the LEFT is an EXAMPLE of the old style, it is actually two pieces crimped together with a seal, it moves freely but you cannot seperate the two halfs, Once its tight, its seals up.

This must be what the old fitting was and its that seal between the two parts that fails!
 

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Discussion Starter #49
well got back out tonight to continue on the truck, been sick all week so progress has been slow, tonight i got everything torqued, (HPOP cover, Oil rails, Oil cooler, intake man.) Would have done it sooner but they call for 96 lbf/in and my torque wrench only went to 20 lbf/ft so i had to borrow another small wrench from work holding me back a day, but got the intake back on, up pipes are in place, turbo is back on.. planning on hitting it hard tomarrow,.

Just a heads up. the two 10mm bolts at the front of the EGR cooler to the intake dont take much to snap!!!:doh: figured i would just snug them down good beings the EGR is black anyways. put the wrench on at 16 lbf/ft to keep it tight and equal. SNAP! luckily it didnt break completely off so the whole bolt came back out but will need replaced:doh:

got a picture of the updated SCT fitting in the truck.



 

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Discussion Starter #50
alright guys, i know its been awhile since ive updated. ive simply just been busy as all heck around home leaving me little time to work on the truck. had a buddy come back from the marines this past weekend so there was a whole lotta :shots: and no progress on the truck.. so finally i got fed up with not having time to wrench and so i said piss on work and took the day off..so after a day of re-assembly shes finally done!!!!!!!:woot::woot: now just trying to get it to start!:doh: been cranking on it for awhile..took awhile brfore it finally fired but didnt stay running.. it will fire like a good start up then die.. think its still just trying to prime itself.. so anyways..thats where it stands..im not sleeping tonight untill i drive it!!!!!

i'll post later as to how it goes and throw up the final photos..thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #51
alright well after a couple hours of trying to start it and letting it set she finally fired!!!:woot: Runs great! Kinda funny actually i just couldnt get the truck to start and i started to wonder about fuel..well i remember reading someone was saying you needed at least 10 gal of fuel to re-prime the system after a job like this and my gauge was on E like on the red, so i made a few trips up to the station and put 10 gallons in it and it still wouldnt fire, well i got to looking at the gauge and it barely moved at all so i wondered if it was still too low yet. well the trucks been setting downhill forever and the tank always reads low when its facing down like that so i thought what the heck, and we threw a jack under it and jacked the front up about a foot leveling the truck out.. well the gauge then went up to 1/4 tank and sure enough after some cranking she fired off like brand new!! sat there a purred like a kitten..:woot:

I let it idle up to temp, checking all the fluids and such..and FINALLY took her out for a spin! everything was perfect, ran great, idled great, still cranks long but im guessing it probly takes a bit to get that fuel system back to normal after setting dry for a month.. other than that it was great!! cant tell you how good it felt to cruise on down the road again:thumb: the turbo lag difference with the EGR capped is definatly noticeable, seems to idle smoother, feels like a new truck..i guess it outta after all that work!:hehe:

It was dark by the time she fired so didnt get any pictures of it complete but i will have them tomorrow!!

Big thanks to everyone for all the help and support! couldnt have done it without the ORG!
 

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A few ???

Hey a couple of ?? In the starter of this post, What is the STC ? And did you do your own EGR Delete ?, After the Hot tank and The welding Where did you get the Plumbing for the Bypass, I have a sneaky pipe now , but I am doing studs a Oil cooler, gaskets , Fire rings and Reg return line this Dec. 09'
If you did your EGR Delete "Off-Road Version Yourself , could you list the steps please, that would save me at least 450 bucks from buying a kit from FCDS or RCD etc. Etc..... I have the means to do it homegrown just not the exact procedure or parts req list. THANKS , and GREAT JOB !!! I am glad you got her running, that's a cool story about the Jacking it up to level. You Are The MAN !!!
 

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Discussion Starter #53
well i still dont have any pictures of it complete! been too busy driving it!:hehe: but all is well with the truck, had a few scares but she runnin strong! been a week now since i completed the job, first issue i had, thursday night a drove the truck for the first time, friday drove it to work, after work my dad needed me to haul an A/C unit for a house to a job site, well i picked it up, and we stopped at the gas station and i left the truck running while i went inside, well i come back out and theres a 1 second drip coming from the back of the motor, it was coolant:doh: so we decided to hit the road while we could, drove about 5 miles got to the house and everything was bone dry under the hood!! hasnt leaked a drop since:dunno::dunno::dunno:.

This past tuesday i finally got the A/C recharged! for some reason it wouldnt hold vacuum so i replaced the two o-rings where it was disconnected and finally got it to hold vacuum, well went to charge it up and the on the second can the o-ring blew out at the condensor and made a huge mess, finally got the correct o-ring in there and she's blowin cold again!

ok finally, heres my big question!! still trying to figure this out!!:doh: im still trying to figure out where the frank this vacuum line goes!! there two lines the route through the firewall under the a/c evap housing, black and grey. they come up and over the evap. on the left side of the housing in the furthest corner of the engine compartment on the left side..the black plugs into the vacuum supply going to the mian harness in the truck for the vent controls.. WHERE DOES THE GREY LINE GO????? I got a diagram, looked under the hoods of 3 different trucks, looked at a 7.3 and a 6.4 and there completely different, finally a 6.0 came into the shop but it was a 2wd and the gray line plugged into an actuator that was in line with a heater hose going into the heater core..but my truck doesnt have that, (the 6.0 was an 04) mines and 05, so im at a complete loss..i just cant find a place for that line.. any help would be great! a pic would be better!! thanks!!

other than that shes running like a champ, i think it may be time for new batts and it cranks way slow, it did prior to the work as well. but got about 500 miles on it, some taking it easy, some pullin a light trailer, others with it to the wood!!:woot:
 

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Im glad to hear its running strong! That grey line goes to the heater core valve. Right behind the oil fill there is a plastic valve in the coolant line which supplies the heater core, so when you turn on max ac it wont let coolant flow through the heater core. either way the grey line goes to that, in the center you will see a little vacuum nub. GET SOME PICS UP!
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Im glad to hear its running strong! That grey line goes to the heater core valve. Right behind the oil fill there is a plastic valve in the coolant line which supplies the heater core, so when you turn on max ac it wont let coolant flow through the heater core. either way the grey line goes to that, in the center you will see a little vacuum nub. GET SOME PICS UP!
thats what i found on that 04 6.0 but my truck doesnt have that, i looked up and down the collant lines to the heater core and theres nothing there.:dunno: not sure if they changed that in 05 or what? Ill take some pics tomorrow of the truck, heading up the Trempealeau, WI tomorrow after noon with the 4-wheelers so ill snap some before we leave!
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Final Pictures~

alright was able to snap some pics here at work, heres the beast loaded and ready to roll for the trip! Got a few pics of the engine bay, yes i painted the intake elbow..i like red! Got my sweet black exhaust! it was fresh and clean a few days ago but then i drove it..







 

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Looking at your degas bottle, I would say you have coolant residue (white chalky powder) on it. Check your cap or replace it.
 

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I assume that's old stuff from the bad head gaskets that he just replaced. But it is a good idea to replace that cap. Ford has a new updated design that is much better.
 

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Excellent write up man!

I have a question - What is your experience level??

Like are you a master mechanic or a shade-tree mechanic?

If mine decides to go, this looks like a fun little project.

I just can't see myself diving into the engine on my 40K dollar truck...haha

Anyway- Nice work!
 

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Discussion Starter #60
well just got back from the ride, 565 miles round trip pulling the trailer in the pic, no puking, no overheating, no problems what so ever, ran 76mph strait home, she ran great!! and yes that is the old residue from before the repair, just never cleaned it up, but i am going to replace the cap.


Excellent write up man!

I have a question - What is your experience level??

Like are you a master mechanic or a shade-tree mechanic?

If mine decides to go, this looks like a fun little project.

I just can't see myself diving into the engine on my 40K dollar truck...haha

Anyway- Nice work!
Well honestly i havnt had a single bit of school, im 21years old, been a gear head since i could pick up a wrench, started off working at the family car dealership just detailing cars, once that closed i worked at a tire shop doing tires & oil changes, then i worked at a truck lube servicing class 8 trucks for 8 months, got a lot of diesel knowledge there, now i work at another tire dealer, we do alot of suspension, brakes, tire, "quick fixes" but no major engine repair. most of my expierence was right at home in the garage, when i was 15 i got a 95 ford taurus for free, (tranny was shot) and one day i decided a was going to pull the motor out of it just for the heck of it. sold the motor, junked the car, did the same thing with a 77 chevy truck, yanked the motor and tore it down to the bare block, just to see what was inside! had quite a few little projects like that at home, couple engine swaps, rebuilt engine, etc. so as far as my expierence level, i dont even know! always been a hobby turning wrenches, this was my first diesel repair though

honestly i wouldnt say it was a whole lot different then taring down an old 350, just alot more complicated and took ALOT longer..but its still an engine. if you understand how it works, and you know how to use the proper tools, anyone could do it!:thumb:
 
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