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Just started on the truck last night replacing both HGs and finally gettin the studs in, Figured i would post some photos as i go. Due to a lack of reosurces im doing this in cab, outside in the driveway! So far going pretty good..Please feel free to chime in with advice and for those of you thinking of doing the same feel free to ask questions.. sorry my camera isnt the best

As of these photos ive got about 5 hours into it including about an hour of re-arranging the garage to make room to lay out parts so..







thats it for now,
 

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way to go! What do you do about order of assembly??
well layout of the parts as they came off, numbering plugs, wires etc, photos of engine before i started, and most of all just memory! when a part is removed the hardware gets put back on where it came to reduce losing nuts and bolts, little tips and tricks to make it easier..
 

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Zach are you going to delete the EGR too while it's apart? I would...

Also make sure you have the heads checked for cracks and mill them no more than .002 or .003. Opinions differ on milling heads but I'm a firm believer in it.
 

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Update: this is about two more hours of working on it, I got a better camera so the pics are much better, got the turbo pulled, its in need of a good cleaning, mostly everything is out of the way except the manifold is next to come off then i should be ready to dig into the heads, got about 7hours in it so far, not too bad..

whats the best way to clean out that manifold? do they normally look that bad after 110k?, doin CCV mod for sure!!

 

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Yea I know as much needed to get them true. I am going to have them machined within .0000 but I was wondering how much is too much to take off :)
As far as I know, no more than .008''. Preferably less. There's not much room for error. If you can't get them true in less than that then new heads are needed. Some people don't even believe in milling 6.0 heads. But I know quite a few trucks where it's been done with success.
 

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As far as I know, no more than .008''. Preferably less. There's not much room for error. If you can't get them true in less than that then new heads are needed. Some people don't even believe in milling 6.0 heads. But I know quite a few trucks where it's been done with success.
Cool i will let them know. i know alot of people say they need replaced if they need machined but fords spec of .003 is not good enough even with studs. So I want to be safe and machine them!

*If your running programmers and stuff ;)
 

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Did my studs with the cab on too. I pulled out the rad, there were two tabs welded to the inside of my frame rails(not sure what for), I put a piece of 2x6 across them and stood inside the engine bay, made it alot easier. Might want to change your oil cooler while you are in there.
 

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Looking good. When you get done you can come do mine.

It looks like your driveway runs downhill into your garage.
yeah it does, that first afternoon i started it was raining pretty good so i was in standing in water most of the night, but i committed to start and knew i had to stick with it so,

I just called it quits for the night, got the manifold & EGR off and ready to weld up.. The heads are ready to come off, tomarrow i'm going to get them off and take them down to the machine shop so hopefully they can get going on them soon..

AS far as the EGR, I dont see any reason to weld up the cooler itself, All ya need is a good alumi welder and it would be quick and easy to fully delete the thing, i was thinking i could grind out a blocker plate for the front of the egr, weld up the up-pipe and re-route the coolant and its a done deal, why spend $600 dollars on a deleted manifold?? The whole thing makes more sense once ya see it in front of you.. anyways..i'll have more pictures tomarrow..thanks guys:thumb:
 

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well finally got back out to the truck about 10 or so, The intake manifold is off, egr is, romoved a few more small pieces, the pass side exhaust manifold is off, driverside is loose but still needs to come off, ive seen the heads pulled with them on but i figured the less they weigh the better, Im not sure if i should start to disassemble the heads in the truck or not, i would like to get them out and lay everything out on the bench but not sure if i can muscle them out myself. got a few more pics as well..

I have to say, im really disappointed in the local dealer, First off its their fault that i have to do this myself, and second, at 98k i took the truck in there for warranty work, they replaced my manifold gaskets due to a leak and recplaced the FICM, well the back of the FICM was completely loose missing a bolt and was not tightened at all, and one of the bolts from the manifold to the up-pipe was loose as well, thats always good for boost!:doh: It might not be appropriate to call out a dealer like this but it seems everything they touched was done half azz, probly a good thing i didnt convince them to do my studs!:thumb:

Anyways, i need to keep crackin on the truck, i planned on hitting it hard today to get the heads out but my forearms and finger tips hurt pretty bad:hehe: Thanks again guys:thumb:

 

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Looking good, bud. Just one request. When you post the IMG code for the pics, put each one on it's own line so the pictures are on top of each other instead of side by side. It makes them kinda hard to look at.:thumb: Keep up the good work.
hmm, They show up stacked on my comp, but i will do that:thumb:

Finally got one of the heads off, the other is ready to be pulled but my help had to run and its a two man job for sure getting them babies out! all went fairly well, i took most of the internals out minus the injectors and glow plugs, The drivers side bottom rear head bolt woudnt clear the body of the truck so i couldnt get it out, so i simply left it loose and figured it would come out with the head as long as we lifted it to clear the block, unfortunatly it worked great except it caught the HG and peeled it up, in doing so it caused alot of debree to fall into the cylinders!!:doh::doh::doh: other than that the HG scraped one of the injectors only scraping the soot off of the tip of it so i'm not too worried about it..

Now, whoes got the best safe method to clean out the jugs?? i was thinking a vacuum should get most of it but not sure how to clean out the edges of the pistons on top of the rings!!! any ideas?? got a few more pics as well

Thanks



 

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I used a shop vac to clean up the heavy debris. I also used the vac before I pulled the heads, the seam where the head meets the block had alot of crud against it.
 

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if your engine has not had the Snap to Connect done on the High Pressure pump now would be the time to do it. Also as stated before look at a oil cooler.
:icon_ford:
 

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if your engine has not had the Snap to Connect done on the High Pressure pump now would be the time to do it. Also as stated before look at a oil cooler.
:icon_ford:
where do i find this?
 

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would'nt be easeir to just pull the motor first?
 

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would'nt be easeir to just pull the motor first?
I will say the easiest way to do it would be to pull the cab, But pulling the motor....not sure:dunno: If you have a heavy enough cherry picker, a heavy duty engine stand that can withhold breaking head bolt loose and torquing them to 250ft lbs, and a place to do it...it might be easier to do the motor work itself, the only disadvantage i can see with doing in cab is reaching for everything, you cant sit on a stool and wrench on it. really the only thing that had to come out doing it in cab compared to pulling cab or pulling motor is the Evaporator..and honestly..6 nuts on the firewall behind the glove box, and it came right out no problem leaving plenty of clearance to do anything.

so honestly, doing it in cab isnt that bad at all, like i said only difference is you have to reach for nut and bolts. also getting the heads on and off would be easier with the other methods but its not impossible this way.. So far i have done this job single handed, in exception to pulling the driverside head as i didnt trust myself to do it, its quite a reach for the weight and theres alot to lose if you drop it!!!

bottom line, if you have a shop, lift, engine hoists, etc. Yeah, pull the motor, or pull the cab, otherwise. IMO In cab is the way to go!

I will freely tell anyone who is thinking about doing an "in cab" install, Its not that bad! if you can turn a wrench, you can do it! Keep things organized, get on the forum and ask questions! the ONLY worry i have left, is making sure everything gets re-installed perfectly! I would do the job again, but not for a silly mistake!:thumb:
 

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Is the rear stud hard to install?
 

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The rear stud on the drivers side? Not that hard, I just used rubberbands to hold the stud in place in the head, while I set it into place.
 

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Well my ARPs and HGs showed up today! Thanks for the quick ship and easy transaction Adam (FCDP):thumb:

I took the night off last night but dug right back in tonight, i managed to muscle the pass side head out by myself, wasnt as bad as the drivers side.. both heads are disassembled and ready to go to the machine shop tomarrow morning, now comes the fun part..gathering the rest of the parts and cleaning everything! I have a few concerns so far, pictures are best way to discribe..let me know what you think

first picture is on the passenger side, as you can see all the jugs are darn near full of coolant! not sure if they filled once i pulled the head or what but it almost looked a little rusty..the drivers side was bone dry...not good..

the second photo is of one of the injectors, the lower o ring almost looked melted. picture isnt the best, obviously it isnt good but not sure what could have caused it to happen or what happens because of it..

the third picture, im not really sure whats the actually name of it is, im going to call it a rocker bridge? anyways, appears as if theres a big crack in the side of it and 3 of the others look nearly the same..not sure what the deal is there either:dunno:

let me know what you think,, thanks!:thumb:







 
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